trouble starting

[jwcinpk]

I have developed a problem when starting my new tractor. It just turned 30 hrs and when I go to start it I have to try three or four times. It will just click the first few times and then finally start. I've been pushing dead pine trees and brush could I have knocked something loose?

 

[arkhiker2003]

It does not sound like the transmission saftey limit switch that I had problems with the other day. If the limit switch becomes disconnected, the starter will not turn over at all. Have you checked your battery? Have you tried to jump start it at the starter? It runs okay once you get it started? Are you waiting for your glow plug light to go out before you try to start it?

 

[lamarbur]

sounds to me like a loose ground at the battery, starter or somewhere in between

 

[jwcinpk]

Seems to be a faulty solenoid. If you keep hitting the switch eventually it will start. I've checked all the connections and can't find anything loose. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[dduff]

I have the same problem with my 6000. Most days it turns right over and other days I have to play with it a while to get it to start. I too have checked everything and found nothing wrong. I have had the dealer look at it but it is like going to the Dentist with a tooth ache, when you get there it doesn’t hurt anymore. I am inclined to agree with you that it is faulty solenoid. In my case it is under warrantee and if it gives up the ghost they get to come to the ranch and replace it. Being that the electrical components are made by “Lucas” may be the answer. Those of us that were in the aircraft industry and those of us who owned British motorcycles use to call Lucas the “Prince of Darkness” because of the unreliable nature of there components. We use to joke about it and said that is why the English drank warm beer because Lucas made the components for the refrigeration units.

 

[Bobvt]

I've had this happen a couple of times with my 6500, when it is cold. My theory is this: There is a manifold heater (not mentioned in manual, but identified in wiring diagram - dealer didn't even know it existed). The heater light is over the horn button. I think that this heater is temperature sensitive. When it is activated can't turn engine over. Have to wait with key on (right turn) for a minute or so to let the heater work. I sent an email to Mahindra's "Production & Support" last week about it. I haven't received an answer.

Bob

 

[Bobvt]

One additional note. The manifold heater is connected through a "Timer Relay" (see wiring diagram). Not sure exactly what it does, but it may explain the wait in turning over the motor.

Bob

 

[jwcinpk]

Doesn't make a bit of sense in my case. Never had any trouble starting right off the bat in 20 degree weather, but it's been 60 lately and have to hit the key now over 20 times to get it started.
That's a little screwy about there being a manifold heater and it not being mentioned in the manual. Seems they would want all their options exposed.
Worth a try though. Tommorrow I'll go out and turn the key on for a minute before I try to start it.

 

[Bobvt]

I agree it is strange, but I still think there is a good chance the starting problem is connected to the manifold heater and/or "Timer Relay"

I had problem with my tractor turning over when the temperature was in the teens. It would turn over but very slow. The tractor was delivered without the block heater I had requested. When the dealer came to get the tractor to install it, I told him how the tractor would barely turn over below 20 degrees. I should add that the heater light never came on when I turned the key on.

The tractor seems to start better now, although we haven't had any temperatures in the low teens since it was returned. The dealer said he "optimized the electrical grounding" (his words). After it was returned the heater light would come on when I turned the key. Prior to its return I never had a problen engaging the starter when I turned the key. After the return, I had the problem twice. Each times I would leave the key on while I checked to see that trans & pto where in neutral. By the time I finished checking, the tractor would turn over. Both times the trans & pto were in neutral, but maybe a safety switch was still engaged and the movement of the levers switched it off. If it happens again, I'm not going to touch the levers and leave the key on for a minute or two before try to engage the starter again.

It is strange that there is no mention of the manifold heater in the manuel, but it is there; at least on mine. It sure would be nice to have an explanation on how it works. My dealer doesn't know. He said he was going to contact the service representative for an explanation.

Bob

 

[jwcinpk]

If the tractor was warm, why would the block heater be a factor? Mine won't start back even after it's been running 3 hours. Tried it today and left the key on for atleast 2 mins before trying to start it and still over 20 times to engage. Gonna call my dealer Monday and see what he thinks.

 

[Bobvt]

I'd call. It is beyond me. (By the way it is not a block heater, it is a manifold heater. It is right at the head of the T (inverted) where the air duct from the cleaner enters the intake manifold.) Just out of curiosity does your red light (above the horn button) come on when you switch the key on?

Bob

 

[jwcinpk]

Yes the red light comes on and I wait for it to go out before trying. Still same thing except I counted yesterday and it took 43 tries. Thats not acceptable! Calling the dealer today and having him come take a look at it. Like I said I've checked all the connections and can not find anyhting loose. It's beyond me. Has to be the solenoid.

 

[BobG_in_VA]

If you don't hear the"click", its most likely the solenoid. You may want to try to hot wire the starter from another battery with a set of jumpers. Just turn the key on and hook the + up the starter motor and the - up to a good ground. It should turn over (and start) if the solenoid is faulty. BobG in VA

 

[Steve02370]

If it is clicking, it is in the starter or solenoid !
Your dealer will replace both under warranty if it is still in warranty.

 

[jwcinpk]

No connections were loose, but today I took them all off, cleaned them and put them back. That fixed the problem. Not sure which connection it was, but it turned over 15 times in a row so i geuss I've traced it out. Must have been in the wires the dealer added for my roller.

 

[sundug]

I have a 2007 6500 4WD. I bought it a year ago with 325 hours on it. I used to see the manifold heater light come on when I first turned on the key, now it does not, and when temps are in the 20's, it has to crank a lot to start. I found the manifold heater and light on the wiring diagram, and I think I have the right timer relay-blue, four prong, mounted high up inside on the left rear of the engine compartment. I see on the wiring diagram that the timer sends juice to the manifold heater, but that sure doesn't seem right, because the wires from the timer relay are a lot smaller gauge than the wire going to the heater, anyway the wiring diagram said they had a 10 amp fuse in line. I checked all the fuses in the fuse panel. They were fine. None are listed as the heater fuse. But behind that fuse panel, there were two fuses taped to the wiring harness. One of them was a 10 amp that was blown. I replaced it, I still do not see the heater light come on- however, the engine was warmed up and I'm not sure if that's a factor. If anyone can shed the light on when this heater is posted come on, how long it is supposed to come on, whether engine temperatures a factor, where the components are located, where the heavy wire going to the heater goes, etc. I sure would appreciate it. Thanks, Doug

 

[bindian]

No connections were loose, but today I took them all off, cleaned them and put them back. That fixed the problem. Not sure which connection it was, but it turned over 15 times in a row so i geuss I've traced it out. Must have been in the wires the dealer added for my roller.

I just got here (been sick), but I was going to say clean the battery terminals. It is usually the ground that gets a little "dirty" and goes bonkers.
hugs, Brandi

 

[sd455dan]

No connections were loose, but today I took them all off, cleaned them and put them back. That fixed the problem. Not sure which connection it was, but it turned over 15 times in a row so i geuss I've traced it out. Must have been in the wires the dealer added for my roller.

This is going to sound a little off the wall but I had the same problem with my car, a 1996 police caprice- the starter solenoid would click but no starter rotation, just like your tractor. The starter I had replaced with a new one because the bendix was damaged internally and and would make a grinding sound -it did not damage the ring gear. the battery has 2 positive cables, one runs to the key switch and fuse boxes, the other cable runs to the starter positive connection unlike single positive cable set ups, which just have a single cable to the starter and a smaller wire from there to key switch . car was fine for 3 months after the new starter installation, then one day went to town parked and tried to restart- just a click thought tow truck but decided to clean the battery positive terminal-- and in between the double gm factory connector- corrosion, didn't check when I installed the starter... So the cable to the key switch had power, everything but actual starter rotation was possible but the cable to main starter positive lug 0 volts.. Glad both are fixed sorry about the long post