TRANSPORT CHAIN STRENGTH

   / TRANSPORT CHAIN STRENGTH #1  

WALT

Gold Member
Joined
May 2, 2000
Messages
251
Location
LOUDON NH
Tractor
KUBOTA BX2200, L-39 TLB & RTV X1100C
I have a general question regarding combined chain strength.
I hope to be purchasing a larger TLB and want to keep it on the trailer, until I'm ready to unload it !!!!

Here is the scenario, using Two (2) chains to bind the load: If the tractor weights 7000 lbs., does each chain need to be rated for 7000 lbs. or is it the total capacity of all chains to be used?
/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
I am familar with how the different grade & link diameters affect the load capacity of a given chain.
I'm just curious if I need to upgrade my current chain & binders from 5400 lb rated. (3/8", grade 40)

Thanks in advance:

WALT
 
   / TRANSPORT CHAIN STRENGTH #2  
Around here - need 4 chains - each rated to the weight of the item secured. Some people cheat and use one long one at each end. Doesn't pass unless it is attached independently from each side such that a break would only result in one corner coming loose.
 
   / TRANSPORT CHAIN STRENGTH #3  
Down her ein fl truckers prefer grade 70.. but many find 43 works fine. Just stay away from the shiny 'proof-coil' stuff, and get a hardened one.

Also.. FL DOT requires a minimum of 1 tie down, plus 1 per additional 10' or part therof.

Also.. each strap or chain needs to be able to handle the full load.. and preferably be 2 to 3x the load. For instance.. I use 2 10K ratchet straps to haul my tractors around. All except the JD -B is 3k or less weight. ( um.. the NH7610s won't fit on the trailer.. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif )

Sometimes I even add an additional safety chain to the bumper , or from a rear implement to a stake pocket, as extra insurance... never hurts.. may help? Also.. chok your tires.. set brakes if applicable.. perhaps even leave in gear depending on what model/type of tractor you have.
Lower implements.. etc. Flag anything hanging over the rear.. and DO have visible lamps, and working brakes.

DOT rarely pulls farmers over.. but they are on comercial haulers like white on rice. And occasionally they pull over 'unsafe' looking non-comercial loads too. ( thinks like grossly overloaded trailers with the tires splayed out.. and flattened.. heavy tounges, and bumper hitches that are bent down as opposed to receiver hitches.. etc. )


Soundguy
 
   / TRANSPORT CHAIN STRENGTH #4  
Just wondering...I dont mean to hijack this thread, but have any of you used these chinese made ratcheting chain binders ($16.00 for a 5/16"-3/8") found at some stores like Harbor Freight?

I bought a few because they were rated the same as the USA brand ones which cost 3x as much....both makers were rated at 5400#.

OBTW, It's my understanding that grade 40 3/8 chain AND 5/16" grade 70 chain are both rated as 5400#???

So are these cheap chinese chain binders as good as the more expensive USA ones?

dwight
 
   / TRANSPORT CHAIN STRENGTH #5  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( For instance.. I use 2 10K ratchet straps to haul my tractors around. All except the JD -B is 3k or less weight. ( um.. the NH7610s won't fit on the trailer.. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif ))</font>

Hey Soundguy.. you are about the first person I have seen say they tie down with ratchet straps. I have a B7300 that I'll be hauling about 10 miles each way come this spring. I was reading a thread about 4-5 months ago on a similar topic and everyone posting was swearing off using straps and to use chains and binders instead. Against that judgement, I recently bought two 12,000 straps to tie off with. I don't see a problem with that. My tractor weights 1200lbs and has a FEL and a boxblade or brushhog on the back. I plan to set the brake, lower the FEL and rear attachment then strap 'er down. Everything fits fine on a tandem axle trailer that was originally bought to haul a 40hp Mahindra and attachments. (Not sure of the rating on the trailer) Sound like an ok setup to you?
 
   / TRANSPORT CHAIN STRENGTH #6  
Sounds great.


I love the ratcheting straps. I have a few of them. They are good for things other than tractors. When I go get a couple rolls of hay.. or 30-40 bales.. the make great hay tiedowns.. whereas chains wouldn't

I know many guys that use nylon straps. They are very strong. Ever notice that most tow and 'snatch' straps are nylon? Kinda tells you about it's strength.

It's way easier on paint too. and flows smoothly as you tighten.. whereas a chain link may catch and then loosen up when the load shifts. I've seen a tight load on a chain, go limber when something gave an inch or two. A ratched starp can have some tension on it even if something gives a tad.

Snapping nylon straps don't carry the same energy as a broken and recoiled steel cable, or a chain.

If I am running around pinch points, I use some old fire hose to run the straps thru.. works great.. and is free in most cases.. especially if you send coffeee and donuts to the fire station.... 10-15$ worth of donut holes and coffee buys alot of otherwise scrap fire hose!

Soundguy
 
   / TRANSPORT CHAIN STRENGTH #7  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( So are these cheap chinese chain binders as good as the more expensive USA ones )</font>

I've got one of those from harbor freight. A roll pin tried to back out once.. but I tapped it in and flaried it with a punch.. still working after ?oh.. 4 years. I use it on the front bumper chain on my tractors. It's not super great fit/finish high quality.. but it works... shows no signs of 'giving out'.. just a little surface rust as I leave it out on the trailer sometimes /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

Soundguy
 
   / TRANSPORT CHAIN STRENGTH #8  
I like the ratchet straps. I read up on regs a few months back, and contacted CHP. They said an independat tie is required on all four corners of a vehicle. For a loader, if it can raise to 15'' high(from ground), it must be secured. Apparently a few have floated, and also a few folks left tractors running on the trailer. Loaders raised and smacked bridges...

So, you would need at least four straps...

The biggest thing I found with straps is there are lots of sharp corners around tractors. I got some cuts on mine... I use chain now, except on the old Farmall; it has shiny paint I do not want to scratch...
 
   / TRANSPORT CHAIN STRENGTH #9  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Sounds great. I love the ratcheting straps. I have a few of them. They are good for things other than tractors.)</font>

Thats what I'm thinking Soundguy... thanks for the reply.

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( It's way easier on paint too.)</font>

Another great point... I'm pciky about keeping my tractor looking good!

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( If I am running around pinch points, I use some old fire hose to run the straps thru.. works great.. and is free in most cases.. especially if you send coffeee and donuts to the fire station.... 10-15$ worth of donut holes and coffee buys alot of otherwise scrap fire hose!)</font>

Well... I work on fire trucks day in and day out. I've never thought about using the old hose. Those guys better GIVE it to me! /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif Great tip... thanks!
 
   / TRANSPORT CHAIN STRENGTH #10  
Use the rating of one chain. At any given time the full stress from the weight of the tractor one chain point would have most of the weight...

I use 2-7000lb chains for my Kubota. I use four binders. DOT requires the load be secured independantly on each corner for a vehicle.

Your best bet is to contact your local Highway Patrol/Trooper office. Ask for an officer in the commercial division. They can tell you specifically what you need, in detail.
 

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