trans lines rubbed thru...no cushions

[dieselbeef]

on my bx2200..800 hrs the lines rubbed thur behind the loader mounts. gotta take half the tractor apart to weld em cuz they didnt bother putting any rubber or anyhting there to isolate them..bunch o crap..

 

[AStanton]

Another potential problem area some other poster pointed out is the stand for the loader, vibrating against the lines. I took my stand off, as I don't remove my loader.

 

[dieselbeef]

i been all over the kubota site looking for a replacement line. its the middle one leaking and all i see in the parts diagrams are 2 lines coming from the rear for the steering. all 3 go under the engine in the front.

got a link to the other posting about the rub thru?
thanks

 

[BX Dan]

Replaced all three myself. I had to take off the left side loader support bracket and rear tire
to get new lines in. They run under the motor over the loader support bracket and down the side.

 

[dieselbeef]

yeah i finally found em. what a halfa$$ed mount. im goint to try to weld it in place first. if that fails ill order it and replace it or put a coupling in between.
ya know its the kinda thing that burns me cause if they had mt'd it right the first time it wouldve mever happened. so 800 hrs later i gotta do repairs that should be a warranty job really

 

[dieselbeef]

btw the 3 line deal is the laoder setup

 

[dieselbeef]

left side behind the loader mount..comes from behind the rear tire goes forward

 

[Heavy Metal Doctor]

I see a boss on the cast iron there and marks on the tubing like it used to be clamped down. Did you remove something, or did it fall apart? I also would not weld hydraulic tubing. I'd replace it. If you don't like the price / availability of a factory part, then take the line out and take it to hydraulics shop and have them make a new one.

 

[dieselbeef]

yes i took the clamp off to show the pics. i have been a welder all my life. i tig welded it. have done many repairs on alot of dif applications. welding the tubing works fine. i have even welded the lines on a jd loader bucket that rusted thru due to the clamping applications..its been running for years.
the lines are cheap enough. they can be had thru messicks but i didnt want to wait. its mowing season and the tractor is busy. along with all its reg chores. i did take it off but looking back once the loader brkt was off i couldn dont it inplace and saved alotta grief.
r/r was a real pita

 

[Heavy Metal Doctor]

Good deal, then. I get not wanting to wait and might do the same welding if I could be sure of a quality repair, especially if it's just for my own use.....I guess I think too much in terms of a commercial shop where people are always looking for someone to blame and I can't chance using a "doctored" part just on the off chance something goes wrong later....

 

[dieselbeef]

yeah im not sure id do it as a paying job..but it worked perfect

 

[Gary Fowler]

Many folks here on TBN have no idea of how to fix a part by welding and base their comments on their own ability of lack of knowledge of the process.
A properly welded repair to a piece of pipe or structural object will always be stronger than the original part due in part to the electrode normally being rated for higher tensile strength than the part being welded and it is always thicker than the part in the as welded condition when a full penetration weld is made. I have witnessed burst testing on piping with buttwelds on it and the pipe always gives way before the weld.

 

[dieselbeef]

true..the ppes will almost always have a sea..or a dom scratch