trailer winch mounting question

[jeffsw6]

I hope you guys will not mind a trailer question that is not related to Ag. I have read a lot of informative threads on this forum while doing my homework before ordering a new trailer. FYI the equipment I carry is sound & lighting gear; large speakers, trunks, trusses, etc.

I am looking at a 8.5x20 enclosed 10k trailer. My current one is 6x12 3k and I need much more space and weight capacity. I don't have electric brakes on the small one, and that's something I am really looking forward to, because my tow vehicle (05 Suburban K1500) is pretty solid and I barely notice the little trailer is behind it aside from brakes.

I saw a term used on this site, proportional electric brakes. What does this mean? I assumed that the trailer brake force would depend on how hard I press the brake pedal in the truck and the setting on my TBC. Is that not always true? If so, is this something that needs to be a feature of my trailer brakes, my TBC, or both? My current 6x12 trailer does not have electric brakes and I am really looking forward to having them!

I had the Chevrolet dealer install a TBC for me when I had it in the shop once. I have never used it and know nothing about it, but I figured it would not be hard to swap it now that the wiring is in place.

Also, I asked the trailer mfr to install a winch under the load floor (like a spare tire compartment) which they say will be attached to a steel plate. I'm guessing they thought it through before quoting it. I am sure this must be a common request from people hauling vehicles, especially racers. I did mention that I did want a pulley or roller to prevent the winch cable from rubbing against the mounting flange / load floor when pulling things up the ramp, and I think they have it figured out. Is this stupid in any way?

Thanks, this forum seems to be a wealth of good towing information. Oh, and before you ask, my tow vehicle does not have a trans temp gauge but it does have an idiot light on the dash for trans temp, so I may not get a lot of warning if my load is too heavy but at least I should have an opportunity to avoid doing serious damage.

 

[Diamondpilot]

The winch setup you are getting sounds nice. Like you said a roller of some sort is necessary and I am sure they will do so.

As for brake controllers here is a little info:

Trailer Brake Controller Information | etrailer.com

The only controller that will sense how hard you press the brake pedal is a pressure sensitive controller like the Ford Factory installed brake controller or the MaxBrake Controller which is basically a aftermarket copy of the Ford OEM controller.

MaxBrake™ - Hydraulic over Electric Variable Brake Controller

I doubt you have one of these, they are top of the market and cost about $325 for the unit alone.

Many balk at the price but to me its nothing when you think about what your truck and trailer plus contents are worth.

I have seen test by a independent tester, trailer magazine, where they tested it with the same truck and load and it beat the other controllers on the market by better than 30% in a panic stop from 60mph. That about 70' in most cases. Pretty significant if you think about it, that the length of standard semi.

Chris

 

[deepNdirt]

as said the manufacture will do all that is necessary, but just for the sake of mentioning When I installed a hand winch onto my car hauler I put a block pulley system in and made things much much easier, than trying to use a dead pull system,

 

[jeffsw6]

Thanks for the pointers! It sounds like I ought to buy that MaxBrake unit.

deepNdirt, is that helpful because the load is basically being pulled from a higher point? I could ask for a D-ring on the front bulkhead but I doubt they will know how much force is safe to put on that wall without some kind of backing plate behind a hook or D-ring.

I should not need a pulley just to halve my torque needs, my heaviest items are about 400# and I asked for an electric winch which I think will pull those items up the ramp effortlessly. I requested a metal flap at the bottom of the ramp and a "gap filler" between the ramp and load floor as well so I think it will be easy.

 

[deepNdirt]

Thanks for the pointers! It sounds like I ought to buy that MaxBrake unit.

deepNdirt, is that helpful because the load is basically being pulled from a higher point? I could ask for a D-ring on the front bulkhead but I doubt they will know how much force is safe to put on that wall without some kind of backing plate behind a hook or D-ring.

I should not need a pulley just to halve my torque needs, my heaviest items are about 400# and I asked for an electric winch which I think will pull those items up the ramp effortlessly. I requested a metal flap at the bottom of the ramp and a "gap filler" between the ramp and load floor as well so I think it will be easy.

Jeffsw, if the load/loads are being pulled from a higher point what have you in mind to rig from underneath where you said you wanted to place the winch, up to whatever height that you will be pulling from, I was thinking more in terms of lower pulling, but yes then you would have concern with the ramp angle and how the cable will rub the tail corner of the trailer, I see your point there, That other drawing didn't very well illustrate the way I would rout the cable, it was more for pointing out the principal of what I was suggesting, my drawing shows what I had in mind and having the cable at a lower level closer to the floor, which now I understand will not work for your purpose if needing to pull from higher up,

 

[George2615]

Using deepNdirts drawing is good if you are winching in a 4-5000 lb car. The pulley cuts the winch load in half. In theory, using this method you could winch in a 5000lb car with a 2500 lb. rated winch. For the light load you mention (400 lb.) a straight pull will work fine. You didn't mention what size winch the dealer is installing but you won't need much of a winch for 400 lb.

If your 05 Suburban came with a tow pkg. It probably has an additional transmission cooler. If not you might want to add one.

I recently bought an 8.5 x 24' enclosed with no winch but will be installing an 8K winch next spring. I also have an 8.5 x 20 tilt bed with and 8K winch.

 

[jeffsw6]

You didn't mention what size winch the dealer is installing but you won't need much of a winch for 400 lb.

They did not specify the winch on the quote, but I figure I will ask what models they offer and choose one when I place my final order, maybe adding a few hundred bucks if they quoted a really slow/light-duty winch. I don't want to be waiting 5 minutes for it to pull a case ten feet, but most good winch manufacturers specify pulling speed with different loads.

If your 05 Suburban came with a tow pkg. It probably has an additional transmission cooler. If not you might want to add one.

I recently bought an 8.5 x 24' enclosed with no winch but will be installing an 8K winch next spring. I also have an 8.5 x 20 tilt bed with and 8K winch.

It does have the factory tow package with the extra trans oil cooler. I think tongue weight and tire sidewalls is more of a limiting factor for this truck than engine/trans. I might change from C to E tires on the rear axle, this is probably the best upgrade short of getting a larger truck.

What is your plan for installing a winch into your enclosed trailer? I'm curious what kind of wire you plan to use for the winch power supply too.

 

[George2615]

They did not specify the winch on the quote, but I figure I will ask what models they offer and choose one when I place my final order, maybe adding a few hundred bucks if they quoted a really slow/light-duty winch. I don't want to be waiting 5 minutes for it to pull a case ten feet, but most good winch manufacturers specify pulling speed with different loads.


It does have the factory tow package with the extra trans oil cooler. I think tongue weight and tire sidewalls is more of a limiting factor for this truck than engine/trans. I might change from C to E tires on the rear axle, this is probably the best upgrade short of getting a larger truck.

What is your plan for installing a winch into your enclosed trailer? I'm curious what kind of wire you plan to use for the winch power supply too.

When I get the winch I will also get the mounting plate and a roller to mount toward the back of the trailer. The roller will keep the cable off the floor when pulling in a load.

I will surface mount my winch to the floor in the front of the trailer and use steel backing plates on the underside of the floor. I haven't looked under the trailer yet but the backing plates will somehow be attached to the frame as well.

The winch will be powered directly from a battery that I already have mounted in a battery box inside the trailer. That battery is kept charged when the truck is hooked up through the 7 pin plug. I changed the truck fuse that supplies power to the trailer to a circuit breaker so the heavy amp draw does not blow the fuse.

I will also get a small roof mounted solar panel to hook to the trailer battery to keep it charged when I'm not using it.