Trailer for kubota tractor

[Yoitslo2]

I just bought a Kubota L3800 HST with FEL. I was wandering what would the best size trailer ? Also whats a good brand?

 

[Mounted Madness]

Yoitslo2,

Your tractor alone weighs 2870 lbs.
Loader specs out to 805 lbs for the LA524.
Bucket will add to that.
You're gonna be over 4000 lbs pretty quickly.
Start adding equipment, or other equipment loaded onto the trailer it won't take long to get it over 5000 lbs.
Your average dual (3500 lb x 2) axle trailer grosses at 7000 lbs.
Take off the weight of the trailer and you've got roughly 5000 lbs capacity.

I've been looking at replacing my 3500 lb single axle since I have exceeded the maximum weight (shhhhhhhhh, don't tell compliance) on occassion.

Your minimum - 7000 lb GVW, and I'd get brakes on both axles.
If you think you'll be beyond the above weights, you might want to go and 8500 lb GVW (heavier axles) or even 10,000 GVW.

As to make, I can't recommend off hand. I suspect the majority are pretty equal, and depend on options. Check 'em out on line and then start pricing from there. That's what I've been doing.

If you want to get all the weights for your machine/implements, check the Kubota Canada Ltd.. You'll also get to see the prices we're paying up here in the north.

You go to the spec charts and it's actually more detailed then the .com site.

Good luck with the new machine.:thumbsup:

 

[Yoitslo2]

Yoitslo2,

Your tractor alone weighs 2870 lbs.
Loader specs out to 805 lbs for the LA524.
Bucket will add to that.
You're gonna be over 4000 lbs pretty quickly.
Start adding equipment, or other equipment loaded onto the trailer it won't take long to get it over 5000 lbs.
Your average dual (3500 lb x 2) axle trailer grosses at 7000 lbs.
Take off the weight of the trailer and you've got roughly 5000 lbs capacity.

I've been looking at replacing my 3500 lb single axle since I have exceeded the maximum weight (shhhhhhhhh, don't tell compliance) on occassion.

Your minimum - 7000 lb GVW, and I'd get brakes on both axles.
If you think you'll be beyond the above weights, you might want to go and 8500 lb GVW (heavier axles) or even 10,000 GVW.

As to make, I can't recommend off hand. I suspect the majority are pretty equal, and depend on options. Check 'em out on line and then start pricing from there. That's what I've been doing.

If you want to get all the weights for your machine/implements, check the Kubota Canada Ltd.. You'll also get to see the prices we're paying up here in the north.

You go to the spec charts and it's actually more detailed then the .com site.

Good luck with the new machine.:thumbsup:

Plus tires are filled with water/antifreeze.

 

[dstig1]

Similar to my L3130, maybe a few hundred pounds lighter at most. I have a 16' 10k dual axle low boy, with brakes on both axles. It is the right weight range - I would be overweight on a 7k trailer with loader, filled tires, and something on the 3 pt. So you will probably find yourself in a similar boat weight-wise.

The length is a big problem. 16' is short for this. I can fit it on (see my avatar) but there is no room to move it around for balancing the tongue load, so I need to back it on to the trailer for best balance. I REALLY wish I had got a 20 or 22', but buying used you make compromises, and I didn't know any better at the time. If you are rarely moving it, 16' will work, but it is not optimal. If you are hauling it around a lot, I would recommend a 20 or 22' 10k dual axle, with brakes on both axles. Then make sure your hitch is rated to handle the load.

I also think this will push you into a 3/4 or 1 ton PU for safe towing. Again, if you rarely tow it, and have a 1/2 ton with a capacity near 10k, it should be fine, but if you do it a lot, or in treacherous terrain, you will want a bigger towing platform.

Trailer brands vary a lot by region. Since they are big and heavy to transport, they tend to be made regionally, and not distributed nationally so much (but some will be). Around here, Felling (MN) is big and PJ out of Texas sells a lot here too. Neither is cheap - but they seem to make quality units.

Don't go short or you will regret it!

 

[Yoitslo2]

Similar to my L3130, maybe a few hundred pounds lighter at most. I have a 16' 10k dual axle low boy, with brakes on both axles. It is the right weight range - I would be overweight on a 7k trailer with loader, filled tires, and something on the 3 pt. So you will probably find yourself in a similar boat weight-wise.

The length is a big problem. 16' is short for this. I can fit it on (see my avatar) but there is no room to move it around for balancing the tongue load, so I need to back it on to the trailer for best balance. I REALLY wish I had got a 20 or 22', but buying used you make compromises, and I didn't know any better at the time. If you are rarely moving it, 16' will work, but it is not optimal. If you are hauling it around a lot, I would recommend a 20 or 22' 10k dual axle, with brakes on both axles. Then make sure your hitch is rated to handle the load.

I also think this will push you into a 3/4 or 1 ton PU for safe towing. Again, if you rarely tow it, and have a 1/2 ton with a capacity near 10k, it should be fine, but if you do it a lot, or in treacherous terrain, you will want a bigger towing platform.

Trailer brands vary a lot by region. Since they are big and heavy to transport, they tend to be made regionally, and not distributed nationally so much (but some will be). Around here, Felling (MN) is big and PJ out of Texas sells a lot here too. Neither is cheap - but they seem to make quality units.

Don't go short or you will regret it!

Thanks.

 

[Gem99ultra]

Yoitslo2, I went through the same delima with my L3400. So, I first went cheap buying a used 16'. Learned later that none of the brakes worked and my tractor w/FEL and box blade barely fit on it. With a bush hog, I had >2' hanging off the tail. Scary ride!

So, I replaced the 16' trailer with a 20' 10K PJ with brakes on both axles. Just the right size, pulls like a dream and has all the bells and whistles. Under $3K out the door, but I'm in Texas. Important thing is that you need at least a 20' 10K or 12K trailer, proper hitch and something a lot bigger than a 1/2 ton pickup to safely pull (and stop) that load.

 

[Fxfymn]

You need to be concerned about both length and capacity as the other posters have stated, but you also need to be concerned about what you are going to use to tow it with. At a minimum you will need a 1/2 ton truck or it's SUV equivalent. Towing a trailer is about the entire package, not just the trailer.

I just purchased a 24' goose neck low boy and I love it. It tows great, has a 16,500 GVW, and over sized brakes. But if you do not have a 3/4 ton truck there is no sense talking about GN trailers for your application.

So, tell us what you are using for a tow vehicle and how much you plan on towing the package and what part of the country you are located in so responders can recommend local trailer builders.

 

[Yoitslo2]

You need to be concerned about both length and capacity as the other posters have stated, but you also need to be concerned about what you are going to use to tow it with. At a minimum you will need a 1/2 ton truck or it's SUV equivalent. Towing a trailer is about the entire package, not just the trailer.

I just purchased a 24' goose neck low boy and I love it. It tows great, has a 16,500 GVW, and over sized brakes. But if you do not have a 3/4 ton truck there is no sense talking about GN trailers for your application.

So, tell us what you are using for a tow vehicle and how much you plan on towing the package and what part of the country you are located in so responders can recommend local trailer builders.

I have a 2008 f150. So I'm covered on the truck.

 

[nvr-enuf]

Yoitslo2,

I do not know where you are located but I might have a solution for you. I have a 14 foot 7K lb skid steer trailer (cronkhite) that I am in the process of redoing from the ground up. I blasted it, painted it with POR90, then epoxy primer, then a top coat. All new brakes, bearings, lights, etc.

What I like about the trailer is the overall weight and that the trailer has drop axles so the load does not side high in the air. What ever trailer you get, make sure you buy a trailer that either tilts or has skid steer ramps, otherwise the back of the trailer will bust - i used several Karavan utility trailers with gate that folded down on the rear but did not support the back of the trailer therefore it always cracks the welds.

If you are interested, let me know

I originally was redoing the trailer for myself then realized I wanted to sell this trailer and my dump trailer in order to get 1 dump trailer that can handle my B21 TLB.

SAS

 

[TripleR]

Will you be using a trailer regularly? We got a gooseneck several years ago to haul our backhoe and use it so seldom, it has turned out to be a waste of money.

 

[CompactTractorFan]

I just bought a Kubota L3800 HST with FEL. I was wandering what would the best size trailer ? Also whats a good brand?

My recommendation would be one of these in a 20' length: “Texas” Utility Trailer | 14TUT - 14' x 82" | Diamond C

 

[CompactTractorFan]

Now I see you have a F-150. Trailer might be too big...

 

[AceDeuce]

20Ft, 12,000 lb. Lowboy Gooseneck


A great deal on a light duty gooseneck and it would give you a little extra capacity. I think you'll need a 3/4 ton P/U no matter what trailer you get. That load on an F-150 would be dangerous for anything over about 35mph.

 

[Fxfymn]

I see from another post you are in SC. Check out Kaufman Trailers in Lexington, NC.Equipment Trailers, Gooseneck Trailers, Car Hauler Trailers, Utility Trailer
I found them to be very good folks to do business with who build a good product at a good price.

You can use a load equalizing hitch, such as a Reese hitch, that will enable you to tow a trailer large enough for your tractor with an F-150.

 

[HalDew]

I also have a L3130. I use an 18 foot 10,000 lb trailer. 18 feet is a bit short with a bushhog on. No room to manuevour for best weight distribution. Would go 20 feet next time. No problem at 10,000 GVW. Was using a Chev 1500 4X4 but got a scare when I hit a bump one day. Trailer nearly took me off the road. Now have a 2500 Duramax. No issue with the pulling unit. As others said don't go too short.

 

[johnk]

Similar to my L3130, maybe a few hundred pounds lighter at most. I have a 16' 10k dual axle low boy, with brakes on both axles. It is the right weight range - I would be overweight on a 7k trailer with loader, filled tires, and something on the 3 pt. So you will probably find yourself in a similar boat weight-wise.

The length is a big problem. 16' is short for this. I can fit it on (see my avatar) but there is no room to move it around for balancing the tongue load, so I need to back it on to the trailer for best balance. I REALLY wish I had got a 20 or 22', but buying used you make compromises, and I didn't know any better at the time. If you are rarely moving it, 16' will work, but it is not optimal. If you are hauling it around a lot, I would recommend a 20 or 22' 10k dual axle, with brakes on both axles. Then make sure your hitch is rated to handle the load.

I also think this will push you into a 3/4 or 1 ton PU for safe towing. Again, if you rarely tow it, and have a 1/2 ton with a capacity near 10k, it should be fine, but if you do it a lot, or in treacherous terrain, you will want a bigger towing platform.

Trailer brands vary a lot by region. Since they are big and heavy to transport, they tend to be made regionally, and not distributed nationally so much (but some will be). Around here, Felling (MN) is big and PJ out of Texas sells a lot here too. Neither is cheap - but they seem to make quality units.

Don't go short or you will regret it!

I have the same tractor, 10K capacity and 16 ft trailer as you and I agree the 16 feet is just enough to get by with. No room to maneuver and if you have a brush hog good luck..

 

[crazyal]

I think I have to agree with the crowd. 10k 18' would work well unless you plan on buying a brush hog or backhoe. I think you could get by with a 16' trailer if you found a good used one but if you're going new it's not going to cost you much more to get that extra 2'. Plus having that extra couple of feet will allow you to place the tractor to correctly weight your bumper.

Also I would look at trailers that have the wheels on the outside of the deck. The deck will be lower and much easier to load/ unload. Plus while tying down your tractor it's much nicer not having to climb up on a higher deck. Look at how many places the trailer has to tie down to. A bare minimum would be nice heavy duty D rings at each corner.

Next ramps. A simple gate may not hold the weight of your tractor but a heavy removable style ramp may be a bit much for you to move around. My trailer has ramps that fold up and use a chain to keep them from falling down. If you have anything sticking off the back they will (or a gate) be in your way. Finally lights. Any light that sticks out will get broken off. Try to find something that's protected or built into the fenders.

You may not find everything you want but I think you could get most.

 

[goldrom]

what is the ideal size of trailer for a kubota L1500?

 

[wcampbell47]

I just bought a Kubota L3800 HST with FEL. I was wandering what would the best size trailer ? Also whats a good brand?

I am very happy with my Load Trail. Great after sale support. Lots of positive comments from long time trailer owners about the quality. I trailered using ramps for several years. I finally had enough acquired a tilt bed trailer. Life is much easier now. My L3901 with FEL and 5 foot shredder just barely fit on a 20 footer. I have two 5200 lb axles and brakes all around. I feel comfortable towing and stopping. The trailer is a goose neck which I have used a king pin insert to match my RV fifth wheel. I hardly use my bumper pull because of the ease of hook up with the king pin / fifth wheel setup. With that much tractor and implements you will be wanting to trade the F150 in for something with more guts real quick. Been there done that. My neighbors F350 with V10 came up for sale and I ran down and wrote her a check real quick like. If I need to move out when towing the V10 does that with gusto.

Depending on the laws in the state where you live and if there is a farm or agriculture exemption you want to watch your total GVWR (truck + trailer + load). In Texas 26001 lbs is considered commercial if you don't have Farm tags. That means CDL license and subject to DOT rules. You can tow a 10,000 lb trailer anywhere and not be considered commercial Federally. Speaking from experience you will not be happy (or safe) if you just go minimum all the way. I recommend Load Trail 20 footer with tilt bed and at least 10,000 lb rating. They also make a goose neck tandem axle single wheels that grosses 15,680. PJ is an excellent brand and has the same setup.

 

[NoNewParts]

I've owned a lot of bumper pull trailers.
(someone always makes me an offer I can't refuse)
always 7000lb'ers.
16 footers were always too small.
My favorite...recently sold..mistake..
was a PJ 20' 7k with the last 2 feet sloped, with easily removeable aluminum fenders.
Handled everything I threw at it, towed nice, nice trailer.
I tow with a 1/2 ton pick-up, but I always order the 'towing special' options and the
'snowplow ready' option which gives you some heavier stuff and a dual battery setup (I don't plow with it)
I just want it to be a real truck.
Add a load equalizing hitch setup.
no issues