Trailer Enclosure Build Advice

   / Trailer Enclosure Build Advice #1  

bengort

New member
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Apr 24, 2016
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3
Location
Wichita
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Hey Guys,
I'm not sure where to post, so I'm trying here. If anyone knows of a good forum for my topic, please point me in the right direction! Thanks.

I'm moving cross country in about a month and a half. I bought an open 6' x 12' utility trailer, 3500 GVWR. I want to build an enclosure for it so my stuff doesn't get rained on. I would like the enclosure to be 6ft tall so I can stand up and walk around in it. This way I can put a permanent roof on it. However, at 3500 GVWR, plus the 800 lb weight of the trailer, I can currently haul 2700 lbs of stuff. I would like to keep the weight down. So here's what I propose:

Use 2x4 studs and 1/4 inch plywood for the walls and roof. Basically I plan to sort of frame it up the way you would frame up house walls. My question is: Will this be sturdy enough to withstand the long distance high speed travel from Kansas to Oregon? The trailer floor is wood, so I plan on just screwing the frame down to the deck of the trailer.

Thanks for any advice you can give.

-Ben

trailer.jpg
 
   / Trailer Enclosure Build Advice #2  
Welcome to TBN.....................

You should have bought a bigger trailer with a higher weight capacity. Can't put much on a 6x12 especially a lot of furniture. If you use 2x4's you'll cut your load capacity way down. Use lightweight metal studs if you are set on doing this, they'll be lighter.
 
   / Trailer Enclosure Build Advice
  • Thread Starter
#3  
Thanks, George. I don't really have a lot of stuff. Very minimal furniture: futon, small table, washer/dryer, small dresser, small computer desk. The rest is clothes dishes and miscellany.

If I used metal studs, would I need to skin the frame on both sides for strength, or is it ok to just skin the outside? Do you think 1/4 inch plywood is strong enough?
 
   / Trailer Enclosure Build Advice #4  
For what you are doing, I would buy some heavy duty tarps, double wrap it and strap it all over. Should be fine. Lighter, cheaper, easier.
 
   / Trailer Enclosure Build Advice #5  
A couple years ago I bought a 28' gooseneck trailer and wanted to do something similar. I had stake pockets so I had studs every 4 feet around the whole trailer. Then I basically ran 2x4s all the way around, at the base, 2' up, 4' up and then at 5' or the top. This was so stuff wouldn't fall off the side.

The first trip cross country I wrapped stuff in expensive tarp only to see it shredded half way through the trip.

After that I put pole barn steel on the front, the sides for about 8' along the sides and then studded the roof and used sheet metal on that. Screwed it all down. I then caulked around the base. I put carpet down so water wouldn't come up through the floor. Along the back opening I ran tarp down and nailed it to the floor.

I made 6 trips and ran through some very heavy rains but everything inside the enclosure was dry.

I reused most of the wood for other projects once I landed so the cost wasn't bad. The steel was used and I caulked the holes so they didn't leak.

On one trip I was at a rest area sleeping in my recliner in the enclosure but the wife stayed in the truck.
 
   / Trailer Enclosure Build Advice #6  
What we have done in the past (with a 6x14 landscape trailer running from NY to GA and back) is to get a roll of 20x100 heavy black plastic sheeting (I cant remember the thickness, I think it was 8 or 10 mil) and use that to tarp the load, then tape it down and run your straps over the top. We have also used a billboard tarp.
The trick is that you can't leave anywhere for the tarp to flap and you have to have something smooth in the front for the wind to push against. If it flaps, it will rip itself to pieces.
If you want to use plywood, I would use at least 3/8" with 2x4 studs (with the 4" side toward the plywood) every 4' on the sides and roof.

Aaron Z
 
   / Trailer Enclosure Build Advice #7  
On my 6 x 10ft open trailer with 14" open sides, I fastened 1/2" exterior plywood to sides and front. Then I bent 3/4" emt for studs and rafters. Then I sheeted it with metal barn roofing. It is used around town, not on the freeway. I would consider 1" emt but it takes more to bend. I can try for better pictures if you need them. Jon

1119151319a.jpg1119151338.jpg
 
   / Trailer Enclosure Build Advice #8  
There was a guy the built a wood canopy structure and to make it hold together at highway speeds he needed to reinforce it with plumbers tape... didn't want to cause an accident should a section of plywood become airborne.
 
   / Trailer Enclosure Build Advice #9  
I just got a new 6x10 box trailer for less than $3000. You could get a used one for less than that. If you try something and it don't work it could cost a lot more than $3000. A buddy of mine was driving his semi pulling a flatbed with sides and a tarp cover, truckers call it a covered wagon. A piece of plywood side slipped out on the interstate and flew up in the air and landed in the middle of the hood on a car, edge down. He was very blessed that the car did not wreck and only had to buy a hood. Ed
 
   / Trailer Enclosure Build Advice #10  
Load it up and take it to the boat storage place to be heat shrink wrapped. I'd think if you let them know you plan to haul it they could take some extra precautions with the orientation of the folds and overlaps. Then throw & bungee down a $10 tarp over the leading face (front) of the load to help deflect wind. Take a camera though, you may end up posting here http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...cs-people-hauling-towing-340.html#post4437904 ;)
 

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