Trailer axles for project

anesthes · Aug 17, 2020

Hello!

I picked up a 1979 travel trailer to use as a project, going to put a dump body on it.

The axles that are on it appear to be original dexter axles, the 4 on 9.44" bolt pattern ones. (NOT rim clamp MO axles). These are about a 4.5" drop with a 2.75" tube. Not sure of the rating, figure at least 3500lbs each? Brake drums say "max diameter 10.040". Backing plate is welded to the stub, NOT bolt on which concerns me about future upgrading of brakes/drums. Tires are 7-15.

I also have a set of axles + springs with a 5 on 5.5" bolt pattern, with a large 3.75" center hole, and 7-15" tires. The drum appears to be at least 12", and the hub and drum seem to be riveted together as one assembly. The backing plates appear to be bolt on, which gives me hope that the axle can be upgraded to a modern brake/hub if I needed. The beam is a 2.75" square. The cap on the hub says "Foreman". These are straight, no drop.

So assuming the brakes work and have sufficient lining on both sets, I'm trying to decide which axles make more sense to use for my project. I have some flexibility in the tongue height and deck height since I need to cut up and shorten the trailer anyway. Just trying to decide which axles are a better starting point?

Dexter axles:

Forman axles:

BrkMstr · Aug 17, 2020

If your in Salem, take a ride over to TexTrail Trailer Parts, 125 Northeastern Blvd., Nashua - TexTrail is a Dexter distributor, when you go, if you have a truck bring the axle if not bring the pitchers - ask for Steve Masson - he's the branch manager, knows dexter product / trailer parts - been doing it for 20+ years - The four bolt has not been made for a long time - I would not use - I'm sure Steve will be able to assist in answering any questions as well as getting you what you need -

anesthes · Aug 18, 2020

I will give them a call today, thank you.

I'm really leaning towards using the Foreman axles, mainly because I can use a normal 5 on 5.5" wheel, and hopefully update the hubs down the road. (and the axles appear to be in better shape). The bolt on backing plate gives me hope that even if I had to re-drill the bolt pattern I could mount modern backing plates.

The dexter "dexstar" axles use the unique 4 on 9.44" rims (which I also can't use my tire machine on) and with the welded backing plates it might be more work to convert them.

Was hoping someone had experience with both on here..

Egon · Aug 18, 2020

Consider starting with new axles & hubs that are rated for your needs. The trailer frame may also need upgrading to handle the dump functions.

anesthes · Aug 19, 2020

Egon said:
Consider starting with new axles & hubs that are rated for your needs. The trailer frame may also need upgrading to handle the dump functions.

Well the rating is fine on either set of axles. I'm cutting up and re-working the trailer frame as needed.

My concern was the ability to update brakes if and when that is needed down the road. Both axles currently work fine, have good brakes, bearings, etc.

The front a-frame position matters depending on if I use a straight axle or drop axle, so that decision needs to be made. The coupler must be 17" from grade so I'm either mounting the a-frame UNDER the 4" channel for the dump body,or at plane with it.

-- Joe

Jeepnford · Aug 20, 2020

I’m certainly no expert on this but I was considering using a fifth wheel camper frame to make a car hauler type trailer. It has 5000 lb axles under it. Anyway the general consensus is the only thing camper frames are good for is campers. They are designed to carry the weight differently than a utility trailer. Might want to do a little research before the build.

Renze · Aug 20, 2020

The only viable future upgrade there is, is scrapping these axles and swap them for a new pair of Dexters when future requirement dictates so. Upgrading existing axles is just not worth your time and money.

And travel trailer, you mean a camper trailer ? These are semi-self carrying and have a very light frame because the load is distributed evenly and the walls add a lot of strength.

A dump trailer frame gets the meanest point load there is, where the cylinder attaches. You will end up beefing it up so much that you would start over new in hindsight.

4570Man · Aug 20, 2020

I agree with the scrap it and start over consensus. The frames are too light for anything else. Maybe a garden cart but certainly not a dump trailer.

ArlyA · Aug 20, 2020

A year ago I was shopping for a trailer to haul our 6x6 on and seen these retired campers FS and almost bought one. Yes there are light but placing some 3/4 plywood on it and shortening up the frame all seemed to be doable project. ATV's and 6x6's are pretty light but I would not have put a dump box on it for gravel of any real capacity.

Sorry to be a downer concerning your project.. :ashamed:

anesthes · Aug 20, 2020

So I should have given you guys some background. I have a fabrication shop, and I've built a lot of trailers over the years.

It's definitely true that some campers and other types of trailers are constructed In a way that makes it very difficult to use them for other applications.

This particular travel trailer is actually constructed very similar to a race car trailer, The perimeter frame is made out of 2x5 stock, The A-frame is welded and plated to the perimeter frame and then tied in with the front cross member.

Drilled a few holes and verify the gauge of the perimeter frame, and it's more than adequate for what I'm doing.

Dump trailers are very straightforward, we have a dump subframe that basically attaches to the perimeter frame.

for you guys that are trying to turn campers and such into bobcat haulers or car trailers and things like that, typically for that type of construction we would run two long 2x5 or 2x6 beams down the center, and using the same rectangle stock we would create cross members 16" oc, then run 3/4-in CDX decking If the trailer was to be enclosed, If not either 11 gauge or diamond plate decking.

For a landscape trailer That's not hauling anything bigger than a couple of zero turn mowers, we would simply use angle for the cross members and run a PT deck.

If the customer was paying for it, it would get brand new Dexter axles with brakes. Since I'm paying for it, and I have all of the material in the shop I need my preference would have been to use the free axles haha.