Tooth bar on a 3400

   / Tooth bar on a 3400 #1  

gregL

Member
Joined
Jan 26, 2005
Messages
39
Location
indiana
Tractor
L3400 Hydro
I would appreciate some comment on the addition of a tooth bar to the bucket, relative to its effect on the ease of loader removal and installation? I would think it minimum, but would like the benefit of others experience.

Thanks Much
Greg
 
   / Tooth bar on a 3400 #2  
Greg, the effect of a toothbar and its possible impact on loader removal/re-installation is zero - providing you remove and reinstall the loader properly and further providing that you have a fairly typical loader setup.

Short of asking what type of loader you have, I must say .. I'm not a product liability trial lawyer, but I DID stay at a Holiday Inn last nite.



/forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif
 
   / Tooth bar on a 3400 #3  
Greg -

I have a Markham toothbar on the bucket on my L463 loader. It works great, and has no effect on removing or installing the loader.
 
   / Tooth bar on a 3400
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Thanks to both of you. Kind of what I assumed; but you know how that goes.
 
   / Tooth bar on a 3400 #5  
Guys, I have a tooth bar on order for my B7800 FEL bucket. I am no whiz at metalworking, and my question is this: Will my 3/8 drill do the job on drilling those installation holes? How hard is the metal/etc? Would it be smart to get a special bit to do the job? With the few holes I have drilled in steel (small and few), I have been successful using some oil on the hole to keep the bit cooler, but it is usually WD40 or whatever I have at hand.

Advice appreciated!!

Frank
 
   / Tooth bar on a 3400 #6  
Your 3/8 drill should be strong enough. That is if you mean the drill and not the bit. I use an 18v 1/2 inch drill. For a hole in the side wall of the bucket, I use a several bit sizes starting with 1/4 inch.

Take your time, use sharp bits, keep the drill speed low (around 200 RPM) and don't apply too much pressure. Your hands should not get tired while holding the drill in position. A slow drill speed will almost let you see the flutes in the drill bit as it turns. Plan to use about 4 to 6 bits to work to hole up to 3/4 or 1 inch size. It took me about 5 minutes per hold to do it in the side of my bucket.

As the hole gets bigger than 1/2 inch, be careful; the larger drill bits will snag the edges of the hole and that hand drill will drill will jump violently. Stop, back the bit out of the hole, hold on tight and change to full speed. Then move the bit into the hole slowly without much pressure. The edges of the bit will cut the edges of the hole.

The chips that come off of the bit can be shaped like the number '9' or a small ribbon of material. You don't want to see little flat flakes when running at low RPM.
 
   / Tooth bar on a 3400 #7  
Some sort of coolant or cutting oil I would recommend too. (WD-40 in a pinch) Try to keep the cut flushed and cooled as much as possible.
 
   / Tooth bar on a 3400 #8  
Hi, I haven't been able to find MARKHAM on the internet. Can you give me a link and maybe an idea of why you like that particular tool. I would really appreciate your reply. Bill.
 
   / Tooth bar on a 3400 #10  
The side steel of the FEL is relativity soft. I would recommend using a "unibit" to drill the hole. A unibit is a "stepped" style of drillbit that effortlessly increases a hole size. it's the same idea as starting with a small bit and progressively increasing the bit size.

It took me less that ten minutes to install a Markham Tooth Bar on my BX22 using one of these bits
 

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