Tongue n groove for trailer floor?

[handirifle]

I am just doing the finishing touches on my utility trailer. It is a small (4'x8' bed) but VERY heavy duty, former grape bin trailer. My next door neighbor gave it to me if I hauled it away. It needed two new tires (old mobile home axle) so I got a pair of new 14.5, 7 ply tires for it and hauled it home.

It came with a 3/4" thick hitch set up for a draw bar, and I have removed that, and welded on a standard 2" trailer hitch. I just, today, finished adding angle iron sides and top rail, and 3 pairs of tie downs, spaced front, back and middle. I have also put on fenders, and will wire the tail lights and side lights tomorrow.

I still need to build a half ramp/tailgate for it but no biggie on that.

I installed a plywood floor on it a month or so ago, to bring a mower home to mow the 3 acres. That has warped a bit, so it got me to thinking. (oh oh here he goes again)

I have a lot of clear doug fir, T&G boards that I pulled from the old house we tore down before our home build, almost 2 years ago. I have kept this wood, looking for some unique use for it.

The trailer floor still has all the rollers that came on it. They were there to roll the 1 ton grape bins (2 of them) onto the trailer. I bolted the plywood right over them, I figured it would just make it stronger.

So with the rollers for support, underneath, would it be a good idea to use the T&G wood? I would remove the plywood, of course. I thought it'd look kinda cool.

 

[crash325]

Just my :2cents: , Probably all it worth.

That lumber is far to nice to use as a trailer floor.

Its better to have some gap between the boards on a trailer floor. Like an outdoor deck they need room for expansion.

3/4" Is to thin for a trailer deck.

 

[JB4310]

I don't think T&G would be a good idea, I think it would buckle when it got wet, no room for expansion. Unless you left a gap between each board.

Like Crash already mentioned, but I didn't read.

JB

 

[beenthere]

A picture of the trailer and rollers you mention would be helpful.
Agree with not needing T&G.

 

[Raspy]

The boards will expand and contract quite a bit, so they need a gap if installed dry. 2X8, for instance might expand 1/4 inch or even more summer to winter. I bought a new car hauler trailer made with wet boards, and later was able to slide them over and add another, just from them shrinking. Plus the mud and stuff that lands on the trailer can get through the gaps if there is no tongues to block it

The tongues gets you nothing, so you could saw the boards down enough to remove the T&G and use them that way. They should be at least 1 1/2 inches thick and supported at about 24 inches max for heavy point loading, like tractor wheels rolling on, etc. If you can trap them in a slot at each end, instead of bolting them, they can squirm around a bit.

 

[Diamondpilot]

I would just use pressure treated lumber.

Chris

 

[handirifle]

OK thanks for the good info. Weight wouldn't be an issue cause the rollers would support it all, the wood is pretty much just a covering. The expansions WAS something I didn't consider, so I will stick with the 3/4 ply that's on there.

Thanks for the good feedback.

 

[Iowachild]

I hope to get started on re-decking my 16 X 7 real soon. I have 1.5" rough sawn white oak stickered up since last June which will be treated with PA crude oil.:thumbsup:

 

[56FordGuy]

Just a side note, a lot of semi trucks use heavy duty tongue and groove flooring. Most of the trailer floor I've put in has been 1 1/4" thick tongue and groove. Seen it in a lot of dry vans and some flatbeds.

May be overkill for what you're doing, though. :laughing: