To Bleed or Not To Bleed ???

/ To Bleed or Not To Bleed ???
  • Thread Starter
#21  
I sure hate it when I'm wrong.

You folks were right all along. It's all working now. line re routed, everything back together. Need to split some old water hose & clamp it on the rub points & I be done.

Thank all of you.
 
/ To Bleed or Not To Bleed ??? #22  
Good news Crash:thumbsup:
 
/ To Bleed or Not To Bleed ??? #23  
Awesome thread everyone. As a city guy moved to the county w/ a Kubota tractor, backhoe, loder package I just replaced my first hose on the backhoe. Made me think of my 69 Olds 455 w/ 4 wheel standard shoe brakes. and I became very adept and bleeding. I was about to go make a mess and I think I know just to connect and go! Thanks everyone for a awesome forum! I could not fix the stuff I have with out you.
JJ Countryguy (I keep trying anyway).
Ohhh- And my wife is the same- classic city girl. So she became a bit distrssed when I started grabing uncut fire wood sections to prop and jackstand a dissasemmbled Backhoe. I told here Welcome to farming mechanics & repair 101. She game me that look guys. :) anyway, She is now quite happy w/ the $500 we saved from the dealer repair est. Love it!~ going to dig by Dinner time. GB And stay safe.
 
/ To Bleed or Not To Bleed ??? #24  
The big difference between a tractor's self-bleeding hydraulic system and a car's non-self-bleeding brakes is that on a tractor the hydraulic fluid is constantly in motion, and the return fluid (oil & trapped air) dumps into a large sump where the air can escape from the oil.

On a car, the air bubble is trapped between the master-cylinder and the brake-cylinders in a system that sees very little fluid movement. When you press on the brake pedal, the fluid and the bubble are being forced away from the master-cylinder reservoir; therefore the bubble doesn't have an opportunity to float to the top and escape into the reservoir.
 

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