TO-30 Hyrdaulic Lever Drifts Upward

[Bob Senti]

Hi All,

My hydraulic lever tends to drift UP. It stops at about the halfway point if it was pushed down passed that. I read that this is just a friction disc thing and I just need to replace that or tighten up the lever. Is that true, or is there something more critical happening internally that should be looked at?

Also - when plowing, my plow tends to "bob" up out of the furrow every 20 feet or so, then it goes back down. Probably not adjusted right, but its frustrating. This is the draft control kicking in I believe, but it seems to be correcting too much. The soil is heavy clay, and is relatively consistent so I wouldnt think it should pull out..and even if it does, it shouldnt come out this far. Can you adjust the sensitivity of the draft? Is that something at the top link spring?

Here is a third thing for all you old timer experts. My furrows, when I actually get one to work, dont generally throw the sod (plowing a virgin pasture with a sod layer on top) completely upside down. Instead it sort of flips it 90 degrees so the end result after a few passes is I've actually stacked my sod side to side. Quite a sight really. Sometimes they roll completely over real nice but they also do this stack business. If I crank up the speed in the hopes of throwing them completely over, the plow/draft ends up kicking and out pops the plow.

Im better than I was, but far from good. Maybe a C+ at this point

Cheers,

Bob

 

[Jerry/MT]

Hi All,

My hydraulic lever tends to drift UP. It stops at about the halfway point if it was pushed down passed that. I read that this is just a friction disc thing and I just need to replace that or tighten up the lever. Is that true, or is there something more critical happening internally that should be looked at?

Also - when plowing, my plow tends to "bob" up out of the furrow every 20 feet or so, then it goes back down. Probably not adjusted right, but its frustrating. This is the draft control kicking in I believe, but it seems to be correcting too much. The soil is heavy clay, and is relatively consistent so I wouldnt think it should pull out..and even if it does, it shouldnt come out this far. Can you adjust the sensitivity of the draft? Is that something at the top link spring?

Here is a third thing for all you old timer experts. My furrows, when I actually get one to work, dont generally throw the sod (plowing a virgin pasture with a sod layer on top) completely upside down. Instead it sort of flips it 90 degrees so the end result after a few passes is I've actually stacked my sod side to side. Quite a sight really. Sometimes they roll completely over real nice but they also do this stack business. If I crank up the speed in the hopes of throwing them completely over, the plow/draft ends up kicking and out pops the plow.

Im better than I was, but far from good. Maybe a C+ at this point

Cheers,

Bob

Try adjusting the existing friction disc before you replace it. Remove the cotter key from the castellated nut and tighten it a little bit at a time. If you note that the cork friction disc is toast, then replace it by all means.

Make sure the control spring on the 3 pt hitch is just able to be turned by hand with the plow on the hitch and fully raised. This will give you the correct sensitiivity on the draft control. It will help to have the control lever friction right also.

Very often this is easier said then done since the threads are usually rusted on. If that's the case, you'll have to remove the side plate and remove the draft plunger from the rest of the linkage before you try to remove it. It usually takes the "blue flame wrench" to remobve a stuck control spring from the plunger. Once you get the plunger off, liberally treat the threads with anti-sieze so it remains adjustable.

Is your plow adjusted properly and fully scoured(polished)? If you have a disc, you could disc the sod first and then plow it.

 

[Bob Senti]

Try adjusting the existing friction disc before you replace it. Remove the cotter key from the castellated nut and tighten it a little bit at a time. If you note that the cork friction disc is toast, then replace it by all means.

Make sure the control spring on the 3 pt hitch is just able to be turned by hand with the plow on the hitch and fully raised. This will give you the correct sensitiivity on the draft control. It will help to have the control lever friction right also.

Very often this is easier said then done since the threads are usually rusted on. If that's the case, you'll have to remove the side plate and remove the draft plunger from the rest of the linkage before you try to remove it. It usually takes the "blue flame wrench" to remobve a stuck control spring from the plunger. Once you get the plunger off, liberally treat the threads with anti-sieze so it remains adjustable.

Is your plow adjusted properly and fully scoured(polished)? If you have a disc, you could disc the sod first and then plow it.

Thanks for the response Jerry! I will see about adding a little more tension/replacing the hyd lever cork. Glad to verify that is typical behavior if thats loose or wearing out.

As for the spring - looking at the schematic I think I understand why you say I might have to remove the draft plunger. It looks as though it is actually itself threaded and what goes into the yoke (through the spring seat)? Good grief! Maybe some liberal use of PB and heat first! I take it the yoke should be able to spin if things were "new"?

Cheers and Happy New Year!

B

 

[Jerry/MT]

Thanks for the response Jerry! I will see about adding a little more tension/replacing the hyd lever cork. Glad to verify that is typical behavior if thats loose or wearing out.

As for the spring - looking at the schematic I think I understand why you say I might have to remove the draft plunger. It looks as though it is actually itself threaded and what goes into the yoke (through the spring seat)? Good grief! Maybe some liberal use of PB and heat first! I take it the yoke should be able to spin if things were "new"?

Cheers and Happy New Year!

B

I think the best thing for you to do is to remove the draft plunger from the control fork and unbolt the hole unit from the rear axle housing. Then you can place it in a vise and pour PB blaster,50/50 acetone/ATF, or what ever your favorite penetrating oil is in to the threads and let it sit for a few days and then try to get it moving without heat.