hebren
Member
Have a 2006 tn75da purchased nov o9 with 140 hrs from dealer, oil supposedly been chg at 130 hrs cannot get oil plug out to change oil, any advice appreciated
Oil & Fuel tn75da oil plug removal
- Thread starter hebren
- Start date
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Soundguy
Old Timer
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- Mar 11, 2002
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- 51,575
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- Central florida
- Tractor
- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
What kind of plug is it?? something different than oem?
I show a plug an oring on the pan as:
13 14457681 O-RING -118, Cl 7, .862" ID x .103" Thk,
14 1 2852318 PLUG
Is there some reason you can't get a wrench on it? Are you trying an adjustable wrench that is slipping and rounding the corners?
if so.. pipe wrench it, then replace. The plug on my 7610s and 5000 is int he same place and is a shallow headed plug.. though I've never havd any trouble removing them with a wrench.
have you tried a socket and impact gun?
If it's hard stuck, take a chissle and start it into the side of a flat near a corner.. not too near though.. then tap ont he chissle with it aiming slightly intot he plug, tapping it int he direction that would unscrew the plug. This damages the plug and you should remove it after this... If it's a deep plug, it may not work..
is the head damaged from other tries?
If all else fails and the head is damaged or round so that even a pipe wrench won't get it, then find a large hex nut with ID no bigger than the OD of the plug, but smaller than the OD of the head.. and then weld it onto the plug stump. IE.. weld from the id of the hex nut to the surface of the plug. the heat of welding usually helps unstick it.. then you can get a big honkin wrench on it and use some leverage... then.. once again.. IMHO.. you should repalce it.
post back if none of this helps.
I've used all methods hear before and rarely do they fail where you ave to get agressive and dril the plug out then chase the threads.. If you do drill it.. use lefty bits. they might unscrew it if you get lucky.
soundguy
I show a plug an oring on the pan as:
13 14457681 O-RING -118, Cl 7, .862" ID x .103" Thk,
14 1 2852318 PLUG
Is there some reason you can't get a wrench on it? Are you trying an adjustable wrench that is slipping and rounding the corners?
if so.. pipe wrench it, then replace. The plug on my 7610s and 5000 is int he same place and is a shallow headed plug.. though I've never havd any trouble removing them with a wrench.
have you tried a socket and impact gun?
If it's hard stuck, take a chissle and start it into the side of a flat near a corner.. not too near though.. then tap ont he chissle with it aiming slightly intot he plug, tapping it int he direction that would unscrew the plug. This damages the plug and you should remove it after this... If it's a deep plug, it may not work..
is the head damaged from other tries?
If all else fails and the head is damaged or round so that even a pipe wrench won't get it, then find a large hex nut with ID no bigger than the OD of the plug, but smaller than the OD of the head.. and then weld it onto the plug stump. IE.. weld from the id of the hex nut to the surface of the plug. the heat of welding usually helps unstick it.. then you can get a big honkin wrench on it and use some leverage... then.. once again.. IMHO.. you should repalce it.
post back if none of this helps.
I've used all methods hear before and rarely do they fail where you ave to get agressive and dril the plug out then chase the threads.. If you do drill it.. use lefty bits. they might unscrew it if you get lucky.
soundguy
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RickB
Super Star Member
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- Sep 18, 2000
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- Up the road from Dollar General WNC
- Tractor
- Just a Scag
12MM Allen wrench.
flyingcow
Veteran Member
Call dealer, this should be their problem. If they overtightened it, this could be a big problem. I.E. busted drain plug, stripped or damaged threads, which could turn into replacing oil pan. My 2 cents
BondoBuilder
Bronze Member
- Joined
- May 4, 2009
- Messages
- 74
Are you using an Allen wrench or a hex socket on a ratchet?
I find you get much more torque with the socket.
I find you get much more torque with the socket.
Soundguy
Old Timer
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2002
- Messages
- 51,575
- Location
- Central florida
- Tractor
- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
you can also hammer the face of the inverted hex to shrink the metal a tad if it is starting to round out.. mind you this shrinking is only near the surface.. though a light to medium strike may help swage the threads a bit to aid in loosening as well.
I've use dthis technique on holes for drive zerks that became slightly loose.
soudnguy
I've use dthis technique on holes for drive zerks that became slightly loose.
soudnguy
I'm just curious but did your tractor come with a 12 mm Allen wrench and a few other tools in the tool box? I have recently found out they are shipped with several small tools and class 2-1 sleeves for the hitch also. Another dealer told me this and showed me. Mine didn't come with squat! Even my toolbox was missing. Darn mechanics in the shop I'll bet. That socket is much better anyway. I have one too.
