tire...slow leak

[pdxman]

I have a B6200 that I just got early this summer. Now that it has time to sit every so often, I notice the left front tire slowly loosing air. The lug tire is in fair to good condition and say's it is tubeless. So far, it hasn't been flat enough to be able to drive up to the shop to refill with air. My question, can I use that canned 'fix a flat' stuff to seal this slow leak or should I pull the wheel off and take into a tire store? Seems like the 'fix a flat' option would be the best but not sure it would fix it and create a further mess for getting fixed further if needed.

 

[Roy]

It's not unusual for tubeless tires to loose their seal on the rim over time. On cars, tires typically loose their treads long before they reach that point. Another option - You can purchase tubes for just about any size tire on the market. Check at an agriculture supplier, like Tractor Supply Company.

 

[gerard]

First try and deflate the tire, break the bead and put a soap and water solution around the bead and reinflate. I did this successfuly to my garden tractor and it's held fine. (Sometimes the bead leaks and with the low pressures in the tires they need to be "reseated" (You can tell where the leaks coming from with a soap and water solution, spread it on the bead and valve stem. Anywhere theres a leak you'll see bubbles) If that doesn't work pick up some green slime. Go to gemplers.com. They sell tire stuff you put in and it remains a liquid and will fill any small leaks or nail punctures. The fix a flat you refered to is a one shot deal that hardens up after putting it in. The slime stuff keeps on working indefinitely and is designed for exactly your problem.

 

[Bird]

I'm not disagreeing with what the other guys have said, but here's what I would do: First, check with a little water (soapy is best) to see if the valve core is leaking. If so, replace it and you're through. If not, take the tire and wheel off the tractor and get it thoroughly wet (bubbles may show up at that time). If you still don't find bubbles, I keep a small spray bottle of water and dishwashing detergent (about 10 to 20% detergent is plenty) and spray everything with that to see where they bubbles are. If it really is a tubeless tire and no one has added a tube, and the leak is in the tread, I use a plug to repair it myself. If you don't have the equipment and know how to do that, take it to a tire shop to either be plugged or patched on the inside. If the leak is along the bead, then as already stated, break it down, clean the bead and re-seat it. And once again, if you've never done that, you may need to take it to a tire shop to have it done. And don't forget when applying soapy water, the leak may be around the valve stem in the wheel. Personally, I never use the little "fix a flat" cans, but Tractor Supply Co., other ag equipment companies, and some tire dealers have a variety of "stop leak" stuff which can be installed in the tire in quantities of a quart to a gallon or more per tire that will stop or prevent most small leaks. And if I use any of those, I make sure it is a "water soluble" formula so it can be washed out if necessary in the future.

Bird

 

[Kubota-monkey]

I had this same problem... Best idea take the tire off and send it to the dealer instead of tire store... I tried the fix a leak stuff and it isnt strong enough for tractor tires.

 

[Rch]

Many "Fix-a-flat" aerosol cans contain butane/propane as a propellent and come with a sticker to put on the tire to warn the guy who fixes the tire eventully to be careful. I can see that getting lost and an accident happening.

RCH

 

[Bud]

I have a little bit of a problem that may fit in this thread. When I got my B2400 new it had 40 lbs of air in the rear tires. After I had it a while added antifreeze to the rear tires, and put the pressure down to about 12 lbs. I noticed what looked like little strings of antifreez seeping out from the rim on both rear tires. If I was to put the pressure up to 40 lbs I'd think the leaks would stop, but then I'd have no traction at all. I have a Power King that I keep 6 to 8 lbs in the rear tires, and that's been working fine for 27 years. If I do that on the Kubota I'd have to use tubes which means the tires would have to be washed with soap and water and put talcum powder in them, or the tube will probably stick in the tire like it was glued.
Another thing, the tires are 6 ply rated R4, and are so stiff that 4 or 5 lbs less may not make a difference.
One thing I like about tubeless tires is you never get rusty rims.
Bud

 

[MarkV]

As Rch said, I heard "fix-a-flat" can be a real fire problem. If you work on your own tires I would not use it unless there were no other options. I know of a tire store in my area that will not work on a tire if you admit it has had fix a flat type stuff put in it. Guess they see a real danger to turn that much work down.

 

[Rowski]

As an automotive technician working in a shop out in the sticks I see a lot of tire flats. Car, truck and farm tractor tires.I will work on tires that have fix flat in them. I don't like to but I do. I have gotten fix a flat in my face more once. Thank goodness for saftey glasses and having them on. The stuff stinks, gets everywere, and gets sticky. Personally I feel fixing it right is best. As for rim leaks VERY comman around here. They use a tremendous amount of salt on the roads in winter. If you have a rusty rim bead take the time to clean it properly or it will not last long if you stay with tubless. Also if a tubeless rim has pitting (badly) from rust oin the bead it would be a good idea to install a tube. Saves a from a rim leak in the future.

Derek

 

[TomG]

I read the directions yesterday on a can of what I think is the same stuff. I think the stuff is intended to seal punctures and inflate a tire enough to drive to a tire repair shop rather than for permanent sealing. The directions indicate that it doesn't work for rim and sidewall leaks. The label also says the tire should be deflated, and re-inflated with air as soon as possible after use. I guess that's to expel as much flammable vapours as possible.