Tire Chains adjustment and questions

[OakHillFarmer]

I got some Duo Grip chains from my dealer and installed the rears today on my 4330. The fit doesn't seem to be all that great so far. I snugged them up as much as possible and adjusted them a couple of time after driving a bit. I still have to get them fully seated and then tackle the fronts. I have a few concerns:

1. They kept whacking the inside of the fender. Sometimes it was a slight rub, sometimes I could see the fender move...not good. When I changed direction from revers to forward, it seemed like some chain would bunch up and cause this. The buckle link also seems to hit a little on every rotation. Will they end up seating well enough to ride through the housing without touching it or will it take manual adjustments from me to get this resolved?

2. Oddly, one of the chains is way too big. To snug it up properly, I'll have to buckle past the first cross links which will cause even more excess chain. Do I just cut out the extra sections and splice things back together with threaded chain links where needed?

I actually expect to do this on the front because I had to buy a size too big to get the same pattern. I'm just wondering if it's normal to have such a bad fit from the start and if threaded chain links are the right part for the job.

3. During installation, I buckled on the tightest link I could. After driving I could work the chain in more and retighten. I imagine I'll do this a few more times during break-in. Should I just cut the extra links off after I've tightened past them or will I need them to reseat the chains next season too? I expect I'll probably need to leave a few spare links and bungee them off to keep them out of the way.

I got some bungees to pick up any other slack that's left over when I'm done adjusting and splicing.

On a positive note, the traction on the little driving I did was great. We're having a super warm week in MA but there's still a lot of ice on my property. I was able to clear a path through the snow to more paddocks that are down a slight, but slippery hill. When I drove down ther before, I'd spend all kinds of time spinning the wheels and using the loader to keep myself going. Moving snow was a pain in that area but the chains will do the trick for sure.

Plus, I totally impressed my brother when he happened to stop by just as I was using the rope-through-the-tire trick to get the chains on. This advice on this site has given me tractor wisdom way beyond my 350 hours of seat time I logged over the last 2 years. I appreciate any advice the chain users can offer.

Thanks!

 

[Ford850]

Oakhill,
There was a very informative post a couple days ago called "tire chains too long" ( http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/113504-tire-chains-too-long.html#post1302867 )
It had a helpful link in it to a tire chains instruction page. Good luck.

 

[OakHillFarmer]

Thanks, that is very helpful. I'll make the necessary adjustments this weekend.

 

[ovrszd]

When fitting new chains, remove any crossbars that overlap. After fitting and retightening until you think you've got them right, cut the excess sidebars leaving a couple links hanging. That gives you some length to start with next time you install them.

A very handy trick is a load binder. Use it to pull the chains tight for latching. Will usually result in gaining one more link.

The tighter the chain, the better it will work. On my small JD455 I even let the air out of the tire, latch the chain as tight as possible, then refill with air.

As for traction gain,,,, there's no way to explain to someone that's not ran chains how much you gain. On snow or ice, a 2wd tractor with chains will easily outwork a 4wd tractor without chains.

 

[mrutkaus]

Yes, I second that , the SMALLEST (so it fits) load binder does wonders.

Mike

 

[skidsteer.ca]

A very handy trick is a load binder. Use it to pull the chains tight for latching. Will usually result in gaining one more link..

You need something to pull and while a binder helps the pull points are to far apart. Also you often can't turn the wheel because the bider hits the fender etc.
Take it from someone who has installed hundreds of 1200 lb skidder tires chains on 30.5 by 32 tires.
You need at least a couple 3' lengths of small engine starter cord.
Tie one end to one end of the tire chain side rail and loop it though the other end of the tire chain and back to the first, make this loop 1 1/2 to 2 times, whatever the lenght of cord will permit. pull it tight and tie it so it will stay there, do the same with a second cord on the outside of tire.
Now drive the tractor ahead a few turns of the tire, cinch the cords down again and tie them off. Repeat until you can't get any more slack out and install you clevises or what ever you fasten the side rails with.

Always start on the inside because it is easier to fight with the outside after.
If the are point to do up on the outside or face of the tire, rope those together and fasten them first.
If you have 2 people have the second pull on the end of the outside cord to take up any slack as you carefully drive the tractor.
I have used chain jacks, come alongs etc, this works far better because you can drive over it to get the slack to the tensioning device, rather then pulling real hard with a binder, just take the slack up as it becomes available rolling around the tire.
Regards
Ken

 

[mtg65]

I do not have alot of experience mounting chains but I put mine on using this chain installation tool from Snow Chains Install Tool I chose a local supplier for my chain but I ordered the binder and tensioner from the tirechain.com folks. They are on tight and work very well!

 

[skidsteer.ca]

I do not have alot of experience mounting chains but I put mine on using this chain installation tool from Snow Chains Install Tool I chose a local supplier for my chain but I ordered the binder and tensioner from the tirechain.com folks. They are on tight and work very well!

That what we call a "chain jack" and they pull quite hard and get the hooks close together. But you still can't pull the slack all the way around the tire, although it would be more effective on a lighter chain then a 1200 skidder chain. With the ropes you dont have to pull hard, it allows you to roll the tire around and gather up the slack when it becomes available.
Did the criss cross spring assembly come with the chains?
Ken

 

[jake98]

is 'mtg' short for mortgage? that chain setup looks tight. how do the truckers put chains on for the passes out west?, anybody know?

 

[RFB]

Ken,

That chain tensioner comes from tirechains.com, and it makes a huge amount of tension compared to bungees. I use a nylon strap stirrup to step into to expand the springs to set them. They are tight.

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