Tire ballast for winter snow removal

[Hammer Head]

I would like to remove my B77 hoe and install a 6' woods blade for winter snow removal. I thought about adding antifreeze solution to rear tires for added ballast.
My B77 manual states that you should not ballast the tires due to additional weight the outriggers would have to lift. I would rather not have to add and remove liquid ballast every winter.
Does anyone have any opinion or advice? My l3800 is new and would not want to cause any stress that may void the warranty.
My thought is that the antifreeze would not be as heavy as rimguard with still gaining some weight. Wheel weights would just be something I would have to purchase and store when not in use.

Thanks

 

[KennyV]

Put a Weight tray on the blade... you can get the added weight transferred to your tractor using the 3pt lift when you need additional traction... Works great I have been doing it that way for Many years. The added weight Stays with the blade (no additional storage). When you remove the blade the weight is No longer on your tractor. KennyV

 

[PTW3320]

Take the rear wheels off and take them to a tire shop and have them install tubes. Then get them to add (with the valve stem at the top) a calcium chloride mix right to the bottom of the valve stem. Calcium weighs almost 12 pounds per gallon and will start to freeze at about 25F. The tubes will prevent any fluid leaking out and rusting out the rim. This was the first thing I did when I bought my JD2305, and I gained almost 200 pounds. It shouldn't affect warranty, but lately it seems warranty protects the dealer and not the customer.

Better yet, take what KennyV suggested, build something that you can bolt or strap to the rear blade. Quick and easy. I changed to a JD3320, and I built a 600 pound weight that I strap to the box blade. I took 8 pieces of 4"x4"x2' heavy wall square tubing, welded them together in a rectangle form, capped one end, and filled each tube with anything that had weight. Old wheel weights, chain links, any thing. Then I filled the voids with sand, tapped to settle, added more more more and capped the other side. When I don't need it, it comes off quick.

Also consider: If you add fluid to your tires, it becomes kinda semi-permanent. You may later get into some soft stuff that all the weight in the rear may hinder you and get you stuck or create more work by leaving ruts.

 

[sandyc]

I have always had loaded tires and have had no problems what-so-ever. My BH65 outriggers lifts the rear end off the ground with no problem. The weight of the liquid is kept right on the tire tread and gives excellent traction for plowing, snow blowing and hauling stuff using the FEL.

 

[Wolfy]

I bought a L3710 new with rimguard loaded tires. When it was about one year old I bought a Woods GB9000 backhoe. It has no problem lifting the extra weight. I suspect, what the B77 owner's manual means, is the size of the outriggers might not have a big enough footprint to carry the extra weight. I replaced my pads with bigger pads that I cut from an old loader tire. This whole setup has worked great for 10 years.

 

[Bluegill2]

I would load the rears and add weight to the blade.

Or just try the rear blade and see how it works with no added weight?

 

[Wolfy]

Loaded tires are really much better for loader work anyways. Extra weight added to the grader blade will not only help with traction, but the weight will give the blade better down pressure to, one - dig in dirt and two - not ride up over the snow. Its a win-win in my book. BTW the Woods blade lineup are very tough. Awesome choice.

 

[vtsnowedin]

I can't see a rear blade no matter how weighted putting any weight on the rear axle when it is down in the working position. So you can go with it up or spin with it down but not both at the same time. Bolt on wheel weights is the best solution if you insist on not loading the tires with calcium chloride or rim guard etc. Also a good set of ice chains adds a couple of hundred weight to any decent sized tractor tire