Tips on putting-up the Main Beam inthe pole shed

[Dave5264]

Hi folks, this summer's project is my 26 x 34 pole shed.

I have all the holes augered, concrete footing in and poles are all in, level, braced and back filled.

Im going to cut the 23 6x6 posts to appriopriate level and then put in the beams.

the center beam wil be 3 laminated sections of 2x8's total of 34' long, 12' up in the air.

what tips do you have in getting that beam up there safely?

here was my idea (note that my Poles are 6x6's and are 6' appart so I cant get the tractor inside the shed perimiter):

- Due to all the of the bracing inside the strucutre, I will build the beam Outside the strucure and Feed it up and onto the center poles

- On one of the end center posts attach 2 sections of 2x4 (one on each side) to create a temporary channel.

- Position the tractor at the end of the building, Loader/bucket raised , attach a block and tackle to the bucket and hoist one end of the beam up. then slide that end into the temporary 2x4 "Channel".

- repeat the procedure at the other end of the beam and gradually feed the beem across the top of the poles * needa guy to help feed the beam while i move the tractor ahead.

am I out of my mind ?

any other tips (aside fom 5 big guys on tall step ladders) ?

 

[beenthere]

scaffolding

Without a clear pic from your description of what your plan is, I'm thinking of your safety.

 

[Deere Dude]

Hi folks, this summer's project is my 26 x 34 pole shed.

I have all the holes augered, concrete footing in and poles are all in, level, braced and back filled.

Im going to cut the 23 6x6 posts to appriopriate level and then put in the beams.

the center beam wil be 3 laminated sections of 2x8's total of 34' long, 12' up in the air.

what tips do you have in getting that beam up there safely?

here was my idea (note that my Poles are 6x6's and are 6' appart so I cant get the tractor inside the shed perimiter):

- Due to all the of the bracing inside the strucutre, I will build the beam Outside the strucure and Feed it up and onto the center poles

- On one of the end center posts attach 2 sections of 2x4 (one on each side) to create a temporary channel.

- Position the tractor at the end of the building, Loader/bucket raised , attach a block and tackle to the bucket and hoist one end of the beam up. then slide that end into the temporary 2x4 "Channel".

- repeat the procedure at the other end of the beam and gradually feed the beem across the top of the poles * needa guy to help feed the beam while i move the tractor ahead.

am I out of my mind ?

any other tips (aside fom 5 big guys on tall step ladders) ?

I'm trying to envision your set-up We need some pictures. If this beam turns over on you it will be like a big heavy snake and will take a lot of muscle to correct it. Whatever you do, do it very slowly and methodically. I am anxious to see other ideas of this.
The only pole buildings I ever saw used trusses. This is unique to me.

 

[Dave5264]

Thanks, I get what your saying if it twists, 34' is a bit long. Will get some Pics this weekend.

I may build it in 3 sections using only 2 thicknesses of laminate 2 x 8 and put the 3 layer of 2x8 laminate on once the bulk is up there

 

[KennyG]

scaffolding

Without a clear pic from your description of what your plan is, I'm thinking of your safety.

I share these concerns. If I understand correctly, you have 6x6 posts on 6 foot centers around the perimeter. It appears you are using the triple 2x8 laminate beam as a ridge pole, leading me to believe you have longer posts on center of the short sides that you will put the laminate beam on. This is not exactly standard construction. Usually, you build end rafters and place the ridge pole on them, not on poles extending down to the ground.

Your beam should be laminated not only with 2x8s but also two layers of 1/2 inch plywood. This will add rigidity and bring the thickness up to the 6x6 dimension. Also, 34 feet is a long length for a built up beam. You will need at least two intermediate supports until you get the rafters in place or you will be fighting rafter alignment.

Maybe I'm missing the picture, but I think you need scaffolding, several people and two temporary intermediate towers. I'm thinking this beam will weigh at least 400 lbs which requires some care but isn't impossible to handle manually.

There is a reason everyone else uses trusses on pole barns, but if you want a conventional roof, make sure the ridge beam is perfectly straight before you start putting in rafters.

 

[DAY]

I don't know how you plan to "laminate" this 34 footer, but why not build it in place?
Get all the pieces up there, one at a time, and put them together. Bolts/screws/nails/glue, or all four, whatever you choose.

 

[Dave5264]

I don't know how you plan to "laminate" this 34 footer, but why not build it in place?
Get all the pieces up there, one at a time, and put them together. Bolts/screws/nails/glue, or all four, whatever you choose.

Yes, i think your right, build it in place is better approach and safer .

Kenny, re your question "....If I understand correctly, you have 6x6 posts on 6 foot centers around the perimeter. It appears you are using the triple 2x8 laminate beam as a ridge pole, leading me to believe you have longer posts on center of the short sides that you will put the laminate beam on" ....

Almost (pics would be best wouldnt they), the center of the building has 6 poles running down the length of the buildng, they are each 12' high. Perimiter poles are 8' high. all 6x6 poles are 6' apart withthe exception of the last one (porch) wich is a 10' spacing. So the lamiated beam will be supported by 5 12' posts every 6' (+ one at 10' spaceing) - 6 12' high center Posts total. Over Kill, but ...

2x8 Rafters will then run from the Center laminated Ridge Beam to the perimiter beam every 16". 1x4 Purlins will then run lengthways across the rafters every 16" all topped off by metal roofing.

 

[beenthere]

I feel better (not that it is important ) with that row of posts holding up your beam. I'd build it in place too, or some of it depending on how convenient working off ladders will be for you. The plywood lams as mentioned between the 2x lumber would add a lot of strength and bending resistance if you can stand the extra width.

Getting some scaffolding set up would make all the job easier, from the beam through to the metal roofing.

 

[hr3]

Dave,, Let me share a little story with you if I may,, My first house I built myself and I mean by myself.. The first 3 walls I built in place,, Stood up the studs then nailed on the first top plate,, Took about a day.. The front wall I thought I would save some time and use the hinge method I had seen on many job sites... Went fast I was surprised.. then came the standing up part.. hmm used a high lift jack and got it up on some sawhorses.. Then I hooked a rope to it and started pulling it up with the tractor..very slow.. Well you know how rope works,, When the rope stretched and the wall went flying...The hinge held I don't know how.. Well smart me I go out and get some cable..Doesn't stretch right??? Nope didn't stretch,, but darn it all the tree I was using to reverse the direction of the wall.. Now that was like a bow and arrow..

I finely got the wall up but it took twice as long as it did to build the other 3 walls,, Like the other guys said,, build it in place,,

 

[KennyG]

I suppose you have a reason for all those center poles. Here is my opinion (for what it's worth) on where you are overbuilt. If you stick build the roof, those center poles don't really need to be there and carry any weight. The roof weight can all come down on the side walls through the rafters. If you look at roofs, you will see that they have a single 2x ridge pole. It only provides a bearing surface to allow the two adjacent rafters to be restrained. I thought you were trying to get rigidity though the end poles. You don't need to go to all the trouble of a big laminated beam. A single series of 2x8's, scabbed together with short 2x6's where you need to splice them, will make your 34 foot beam. This you can easily build in place if you get all your posts cut exactly in line.

Don't use 2x8 rafters. Rafters are generally one size smaller than the ridge board, because the ends are cut on an angle. 2x6's on 16 inch centers are more than adequate for a 26 foot wide building.