TimeCutter SS 4235 - steep learning curve for my lawn

[Jack Vines]

This is a like-new 2-year-old mower and my first skidsteer/zero turn. I practiced a bit in the wide-open north forty to get the hang of it before I started the close trimming around the wife's flower beds. It seems the left handle isn't adjusted to produce exactly as much force as the right. On a slight slope down to the left, the right handle has to be held back to keep it straight.

What about steep slopes? I was able to mow them with my Cub Cadet 2135, which wasn't a particularly stable machine. The Toro Operator's Manual says "YOU'LL DIE!" but does anyone have any tips about mowing slopes greater than 15-degrees? A mower which won't tackle more than that is pretty useless. So up, down, or sideways?

One corner of my lawn is a fairly steep downhill with a chain link fence on both sides and I haven't found any way to get this machine to go there. It just gets tangled up in the fence, won't turn, slides sideways, won't back up. To this point, the supposed 33% faster cut will be gone by the greater area to be trimmed by the push mower.

What do I need to know about potential failure modes and preventative maintenance?

BTW - where are the two grease zerks indicated on the little decal on the frame? The manual is no help there.

jack vines

 

[mrmikey]

Same machine I bought last year, I like it but hills....not so much, side traction is the 8hits.
I don't have many but the way I do it (safety police step out of the room for a moment) is go straight up and turn around at the top and back down all in one motion, don't stop, hesitate or nothin, up-around-down in one motion.
Only grease nipples on mine are the two front wheel bearings. The oil filter I bought at a Canadian Tire for $4.95 as opposed to the Kohler rip-off price of $20. I also added an hour meter on mine.
On another note be aware of the deck, it's not exceptionally rigid, I tried to mow some cleared ground and twisted it when I got caught up in a low stump. I had to strip off the spindles and straighten up the mounts using a deadblow hammer and clamps....Mike

 

[Jack Vines]

Hi, Mike,

Thanks for the suggestions. I mowed again today just for the practice and it went a bit better. My problem corner is not one which I can go straight up. It's downhill and then turn uphill against the fence and the Toro just doesn't want to do it.

On another note be aware of the deck, it's not exceptionally rigid,

To my dismay, on closer inspection, I've noticed the Toro looks really butch on top but wears lace panties underneath. The two drive transmissions aren't much larger than my blender.

jack vines

 

[Jack Vines]

After a few more weeks of mowing, I've found the best method to approach some side/downhills is at dead slow. If I creep up on them and us as little power as possible, I can get around some areas which are impossible carrying normal momentum. I mean, it's sold as a "TimeCutter" and the promise is it's faster than a tractor. That's what was confusing me; that there are some areas which can only be negotiated at a dead crawl, much slower than a tractor will take them.

One other trick I realized I had been using with the tractor was I had always shifted my weight to the uphill side. That was possible because only one hand was required on the steering wheel. With a ZTR on a sidehill, impossible to let go of one stick.

Anyway, I'm adjusting to the TimeCutter and it definitely does give a better, more even cut than the old tractor and probably does it in the same or less time; even if I have to mow a wider area with the walk-behind.

jack vines