Time to re-deck my trailer

[EddieWalker]

I bought this trailer brand new about five years ago. The wood on it was called "wolmanized" but I don't know how to spell it. The dealer said it was a type of pressure treated wood. I don't know.

It's a basic 16 ft trailer that I bought for $900. Used ones were almost that much, and they all needed tires and wood. I thought I was doing pretty good buying new, but here I am replacing the wood.

As you can see in the first picture, it's rotted all the way through in the back. There was a single torx screw though the middle of each 2x8 in three different locations. The ends are wedged into the angle iron at both ends. I was able to unscrew all of the torx screws except three. I cut the piece of angle iron off with my grinder and lifted the boards out. Of the three that still had the torx screw in them, only one held. I had to use a crow bar to get the wood off on that one. The others just fell apart, but a few came out whole.

The wood was the wrong size. It should have had 2x10' in my opinion. Eight 2x10s fit in there perfectly.

After getting the wood out and cutting off the stuck torx screws, I cleaned up the metal with a steel brush in my angle grinder. Then I painted it three times with frame undercoating. Everywhere that the wood will come into contact, is where I focused my attention.

With 2x10's going on, would you use a single carriage bolt at every other cross member or two bolts? I'm thinking two would be allot better and eliminate cupping.

Thanks,
Eddie

 

[gordyy]

I agree with you on the two afterall its just the time the bolts are cheap
and I always hate the uneven cupping you get with a deck that only has one screw or bolt per member.
you have more trouble securing something that rocks over something that sits tight

 

[mjncad]

I bought this trailer brand new about five years ago. The wood on it was called "wolmanized" but I don't know how to spell it. The dealer said it was a type of pressure treated wood. I don't know.

Thanks,
Eddie

I think the dealer lied to you Eddie as the wood looks more "Wormized" to me.

 

[Sackett2]

I have almost the same trailer as you. Mine was decked with pine, painted (?) black. it lasted about 8-9 years.
We removed the deck and replaced it with 8' 2x6 (or 2x8's.ll check tomorrow) of pressure treated fir, butting the two ends in the middle with a steel plate over the ends. this way if a board rots or breaks, we now can replace one board.
We also put 1/4 inch gaps between each board to allow the water to run thru. A needed feature in Oregon. we (generally) doubled screwed them. it looks a lot nicer and we figure it will last 15-20 years now; (at least the deck)
I'll snap a picture tomorrow.

 

[Gizmo2]

The wood was the wrong size. It should have had 2x10' in my opinion. Eight 2x10s fit in there perfectly.

With 2x10's going on, would you use a single carriage bolt at every other cross member or two bolts? I'm thinking two would be allot better and eliminate cupping.

Thanks,
Eddie

I would probably use smaller size lumber. You get less deformity per board as they dry out. Installing the boards with the bark side up should prevent board cupping, the less bolts per end the better.

 

[Egon]

I'm thinking two would be allot better and eliminate cupping.

If the grain of the wood is oriented properly cupping could be minimized while only using one bolt. I'd use two though.

I'm going through the same process with my trailer right now.

 

[tommu56]

I would probably use smaller size lumber. You get less deformity per board as they dry out. Installing the boards with the bark side up should prevent board cupping, the less bolts per end the better.

What he said and put the bark side up like a deck.

I have 2x6's ptsyp rated for ground contact some pt isn't rated for ground contact and won't last as long.
My bigger trailer put the 2 screws per board about 1" from edges and like yours I have a piece of flat stock on the back edge but I bolted it in between the boards to keep from splitting the ends out.
The front is ducked under a welded in piece of flat stock.

After I cut the rear steel loose friend said why didn't I bow the boards back under the flat stock on the front and back and save me some work. Hind site is always 20/20.

tom

 

[Bird]

The wood on it was called "wolmanized" but I don't know how to spell it. The dealer said it was a type of pressure treated wood.

You spelled it right, and yep, it's a type of pressure treated wood. You can find lots of information at google.com.

 

[weldingisfun]

The Torx head screws are not structural. All they do is hold the deck boards in place to prevent them from bouncing up and down on the crossmembers and from shifting front to rear and sideways. Egon and Gizmo2 have it right about the cupping. If you use carriage bolts be sure to use lock nuts.
I also agree with Gizmo2 on the board size. The 2X8 is the better way to go for cost as well as warping. If a 16' board wants to warp there isn't a whole lot you can do to stop it. I have a 20' trailer with one board that is perfectly straight for 18'. The last 2 feet has warped to the left about 1.5".

 

[Diamondpilot]

Next time Eddie you do not need to cut off the back piece of steel. Just cut the old boards between 2 braces making sure to watch for wires.

When its time to re-deck put one end in the cup and use a scrape piece of 2x4 about 1' long or so place on the front axle. Have a big buddy, about 200#, stand on the other end then knock out the 2x4 you place on the front axle out with a sledge. You can re-deck one in 15 minutes this way. Just got done doing one of my customers about 2 months back. By the way his had 2x12's.

Chris