Tilt bar

[Spiffy]

First the bad news: I managed to bend the bar connecting the tilt pivot to the attachment plate. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif Worse, I still don't know how! /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

But, I think I can straighten it and reinforce it easy enough. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Now the question, I think the pictures on PT's website show straight tilt bars, mine is curved (no, the bend went in the weak direction, the curve was&is in the strong dimension). Which is better or newer? I got thinking maybe I'll just replace it with straight if that's preferred; then by fixing the other one I'll have a spare too. If curved is preferred: dish up or down? Right now the convex side is up.

Thanks!

 

[tracdoc]

Chad,

Could you snap a quick pic to show us what's bent where, and the contour of the bend?

 

[Spiffy]

Good thinking tracdoc! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

1st one is oringinal curve - in the strong dimension.

<font color="red"> edit: just realized a pic is 1K words /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif ; I should have noted before, the convex ends point "up" the convex [at center] points down. </font>

 

[Spiffy]

Picture of new bend.

 

[Spiffy]

Slightly different angle; it's about halfway up in both.

 

[Spiffy]

Suggestions on fixing this and just what is correct would be great. Also, I'd love to hear how to not let this happen again (no, leaving it in the garage is not an option /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif ).

Perhaps, I'm abusing it, but have added less than 10 hours to it (came with about 590; break 600 soon) and less than an hour lifting or moving dirt/rocks. A couple hours of grinding stumps and an hour or two on the rake. Some BH time...... /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif just thinking as I'm typing.... I'm using the rock bucket as a front out-rigger when working with the BH, could this get some un-natural stress? If not the BH, I assure everyone, I've babied it compared to every Farmhand or JD FEL I've ever ran (on things from 40 to 60+HP, and weighing less to much more than the 2445).

BTW, 4 hours of those were paying jobs. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif Just hope one of those didn't cost me way more than the pay. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

 

[Spiffy]

Another wild concept......some pretty bumpy roads out here. After locking it on the trailer, I ussually push the joystick to float after turning off the machine, then back to center.

Is this correct?

Thanks guys!

 

[KentT]

You may want to try replacing it with an adjustable top-link like that used on a normal tractor's 3-point hitch. I think JJ talked about using one...

 

[J_J]

I am thinking that this bending of the tilt bar, might have been causes by ramming into a dirt pile going to fast, trying to get a full load. This will put undue stress on the linkage. If the tilt rod doesn't bend the cylinder might pop out the ends.
The tilt arm on my 1445 isn't round, it is 1 in by 2 in, and has three holes in it, I assume for different attachments. A good welder could straighten your bar, and reinforce it by welding 3/8 strips of metal down each side. A 20 ton hydraulic press might also straighten it. Several of us have bent the pivot rod and pin for various reasons.

 

[stray]

Like JJ said. I would just strighten and reinforce it.

 

[Spiffy]

I think that's the plan, but figured it was worth finding out if there was a better way.

JJ, Mine is 1X2" bar stock as well. Don't have the third hole though; and I still can't figure out the curve that I'm pretty sure was factory (the new bend wrinkled some paint none wrinkled on that one and it just shouldn't bend against the 2" dimension for that matter).

Can see a couple uses for that "adjustable top link" though.

 

[Spiffy]

The cutting torch, two MAPP hand held torches, a big hammer, some sweet talking wife (to hold torches), and few choice words not to be repeated in public (or public forum) and:

I got it pretty straight! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif Still not sure about the curve that I think was factory, but it's working fine again.

You need to get the whole bent area to at least a dull red (about 6 or 8 inches for the area I was trying to fix) unless you have a much bigger hammer or muscles than I do. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Also, not wanting to aneal any temper in the steel, nor make it too brittle, I cooled it semi-rapidly trickling water over it (I was afraid submersing may cause brittle spots).

Still thinking about having a straight one made up to have on hand.

 

[stray]

Good deal! and we would love to see some pics