Tie Rod Help!

[s2dm]

Broke a tie rod last week, ordered a replacement, got in the shop to do it and a bit flummoxed. My rig has the flat part on the hydraulic steering shaft on the drivers side which seems to be different than others, but when we got a hold of that and turned the broken side, the steering shaft seems to be unscrewing from the middle, like its two parts. It screws back together just fine and seems rigid after doing so. But I cant get the affected side out, when I crank, the hydraulic shaft just starting unscrewing in the middle.

Few questions:

1) Given the other side has the flat sections, would it be terrible to just put a pipe wrench on the shaft on the broken side as close to the tie rod as possible and separate it that way?

2) It doesnt appear to be, but just wanted to make sure the tie rod wasnt reverse threaded?

3) Is that hydraulic steering shaft two pieces or do I have a bigger problem to sort in there?

Thanks for the input. Despite having a pretty good pile of heavy equipment, the toolcat gets used more than everything else. Pretty indispensable out here. We’ve been sorely missing it the last few days.

 

[ruffdog]

Looking at my G series manual, it says the flats are only on one end of the steering cylinder shaft. Assembly torque is 69-79 ft lbs. If they use lock tite, even a little heat would help.

 

[Interceptor]

I've rebuilt lots of steering cylinders and I've never seen one come apart in the middle. I suppose it's possible depending how it's made. I always assumed the piston was shrink fit onto the center of a one piece chrome rod, but maybe there is a threaded connection in the middle.
I would do as ruffdog suggested and throw some heat at it. Since it's already broken you can cut the rod off short and weld a big nut onto the ball socket, then use an impact to try to break it free. Use a rubber strap wrench on the chrome rod to keep it from spinning. If you don't have a strap wrench, use an old serpentine belt and a vise grip.

 

[5030]

I'd grab it with a pair of Vice Grips to keep it from moving and if it get's 'Buggered up' from the vice grips, you can always paint it.

 

[Interceptor]

I'd grab it with a pair of Vice Grips to keep it from moving and if it get's 'Buggered up' from the vice grips, you can always paint it.

He's talking about a 1.5" chrome rod on a hydraulic cylinder. I haven't seen vise grips that would grab it, and if it gets buggered up it will tear up the hydraulic seal. There's only about 1/4" stick out past the seal when fully retracted.

 

[s2dm]

I finally managed to get it off. i had a guy helping me and he was a little turned around. I’d been having him hold the flat, but he was actually holding the nut on the tie rod on the other side. So that side was coming undone but he didnt see the chrome rod spinning.

Any tips on alignment now that it’s back together?

 

[ruffdog]

Any tips on alignment now that it’s back together?

Per G series manual:
Put the toolcat up on jack stands per manual on the lower control arm cross piece. Suspension must be at full droop. Remove wheels. Check the steering cylinder so equal amount of shaft is sticking out each end (within 1/16"). On the wheel mount flange on the hub, use a 20 inch straight edge on the hub and it doesn't have to be centered. The measurement from the straight edge end to the frame on the tie rod side should be 0.66" more than the non tie rod side. Do this on each side.