The only stupid question is a question not asked ?

[Fug1000]

Well, I hope that is the truth 'cause I am pretty red about the question I am getting ready to ask y'all.

How does one remove a 3Pt attachment?

Specifically a PHD from a B7800?


I know nothing and today I spent about 2 hours trying to figure it out with no luck.

I'm talking step by step. Including the PTO shaft and the protective cover.

I figured out that I needed to lower it, I even removed the auger bit.

The lower 3PT arms didn't seem like they could spread far enough apart to allow the PHD to come free. The PHD is mounted inside the arms, the pins slide out easily enough but the arms aren't giving it up. I was able to remove the top link ok but I couldn't figure out the lower links, the PTO shaft...well I didn't even get to see the PTO shaft because I didn't know how to slide the protective cap sleeve end down or off.
The protective sleeve has 3 little white things that look like they slide up or down, you can turn them 90 degrees with a screw driver to unlock them I assume but even doing that they didn't seem to want to budge.

Obviously this is my 1st tractor, first PTO shaft, first everything, please be specific (and gentle)

 

[Fjord]

The B7800 has turnbuckles to prevent side to side motion of the lower links. If you loosen the turnbuckles then you should be able to spread the lower links enough to get your implement off. There may be a little pin that goes through one of the threaded turnbuckle rods that you will have to take out of the turnbuckle before you can turn it. There should be a little spring loaded button on the side of the PHD PTO shaft at the tractor end. Push it sideways with your thumb while pulling back and the shaft should slide back and off of the tractor PTO. Disconnect the PTO shaft first. Whenever I take off my PHD, I first undo the PTO shaft and remove the gearbox/auger assembly from the arch to make it lighter and less awkward. Hope this helps.

 

[texasjohn]

My technique, step by step is as follows:

Drill auger into ground about 9 inches.... this keeps the whole thing upright... deeper if you are in sand.... point is that when all is disconnected it should remain in place, not fall over, be ready for reattachment.

Disconnect the PTO shaft. There are different PTO attachment mechanisms... the one described above is very common.... a round pin on the shaft right where it attaches to the PTO shaft coming out of the tractor. The shaft is splined with a half round detent for the pin to fit into. Push the pin "in" all the way and pull backward on the PHD drive shaft. Hopefully, it will slip off easily. If not, I get somebody else to tap the connection with a hammer (having run out of hands pushing pin and pulling drive shaft.

Lower the 3PH arms all the way.... notice the point where the pins do NOT seem to be in a bind... remove lynch pin and slide arm off of the auger pin by loosening, if necessary, whatever turnbuckles or other devices are restraining the arm to keep the whole thing from swaying when all is connected.

Do this for both right and left arms.

Now, remove the pin from the top link and set the 3 attachment points on the ground,or on a supporting board to keep attachment points out of the soil.

Drive away.... you are now free to attach the next device and wander over your property at will.

If you are unable to disconnect the PTO shaft... we'll need a photo to assist further.... I GUARANTEE you that I spent 1 hr with a friend trying to figure out how to disconnect a PTO shredder shaft once.... it was a different scheme from what I was used to.

 

[Fug1000]

Thanks for the replies so far, I think I got it except for this one last thing.... the protective coverings at both ends of the PTO shafts....how do you get them to move?

Below is a rough drawing and some pictures of my covers.

The white thing on the left is a close-up drawing of the small devices on my PTO safety covers.

The small white slot between the two black areas is where you can put in a screwdriver and turn these 90 degrees...actually you can turn them more but they 'pop' into place every 90 degrees.

There are 3 of them on the cover around the outside of it. There are of course two covers, the one I need to get loose is the one near the tractor of course.

I tried turning them all 90 degrees then I figured the white button type things would slide up or down releasing the cover but they didn't slide anywhere nor could I make them slide.

I'm sure I'm missing something here, answer is right in front of my face, isn't it?

Danged if I can see it.

 

[Partsman2]

Without having it in hand it's hard to determine how the guard detaches.

Just for the record - you should not need to remove that guard in order to detach the drive shaft from the tractor. I've owned implements with guarded drive shafts like that for almost 20 years and I've never removed the guards from the drive shaft.

As someone mentioned there is a spring loaded button on the coupling that slides onto the drive shaft. You push the button in all the way while you pull on the shaft and it should slide off. If it's stuck try penetrating oil and banging on it with a hammer or try a pry bar. A helper makes it a lot easier when you're doing that.

 

[kwolfe]

I would leave it attached to the gear box. It may be awkard, but you should be able to get your hand in the sleeve at the tractor end. Just pull the coupling sleeve back and yank hard.

 

[hunterridgefarm]

My technique, step by step is as follows:

Drill auger into ground about 9 inches.... this keeps the whole thing upright... deeper if you are in sand.... point is that when all is disconnected it should remain in place, not fall over, be ready for reattachment.

John,

Excellent idea. I have been looking for a way to store my PHD without building a rack or hanging it from the rafters. I have a dirt floor in one of my drive through sheads and that will work great.

David

 

[WayneB]

I would leave it attached to the gear box. It may be awkard, but you should be able to get your hand in the sleeve at the tractor end. Just pull the coupling sleeve back and yank hard.

Jim what Kwolfe writes is absolutely right. There is a slip ring that you need to pull back and that will release the detent and you will be able to pull the PTO shaft straight back toward you.

 

[mjfox6]

I figured a picture of the button would help. A thousand words, right...

 

[JRobyn]

The push-button PTO release/retainer is the most common, but some (e.g., Bushhog-supplied) PTO shafts have a spring-loaded flange around the entire PTO coupling that must be pulled to the rear (away from the PTO) to release the coupling. There's probably some other methods as well. Close examination of the coupling should indicate how yours works. Granted, that's hard to do with the shaft cover in the way!

 

[rural2]

I have the same phd, same tractor for that matter... Turn the plastic slotted keeper so the slot is in line with the drive shaft and use the screwdriver or whatever to pull out on and completey remove the plastic keepers, then pull back on the yoke sheild to expose the yoke. Pull back on the yoke flange (you don't have the push button type) to retract it and pull the yoke off the pto shaft. I don't remove the driveline from the phd for storage. Instead I bungee the shaft to the boom. Don't forget to put the plastic keepers back in the yoke sheild so thay don't get lost.
Once you get it off it all becomes clear why you did what.

 

[Fug1000]

I have the same phd, same tractor for that matter... Turn the plastic slotted keeper so the slot is in line with the drive shaft and use the screwdriver or whatever to pull out on and completey remove the plastic keepers, then pull back on the yoke sheild to expose the yoke. Pull back on the yoke flange (you don't have the push button type) to retract it and pull the yoke off the pto shaft. I don't remove the driveline from the phd for storage. Instead I bungee the shaft to the boom. Don't forget to put the plastic keepers back in the yoke sheild so thay don't get lost.
Once you get it off it all becomes clear why you did what.

This sounds like a winner!

In fact all these posts sound like winners, thank you guys so much!

I think the above post though fits my Bushhog brand PHD. I just couldn't see how in the world I could get my big fat hand around and under that yoke shield.

My tractor is 60 miles away from me at this time but I will get to visit it this weekend and I will report back.

Thanks again.

 

[herringchoker]

Fug. maybe you've already done this..... the heavy metal PTO shaft cover on the tractor itself is hinged at the top so you can flip it up and give more room to get your hand in there. Makes it easier to remove & attach the shaft.

 

[Fug1000]

Fug. maybe you've already done this..... the heavy metal PTO shaft cover on the tractor itself is hinged at the top so you can flip it up and give more room to get your hand in there. Makes it easier to remove & attach the shaft.

Well crap...now that sure sounds simple enough!! Thank you. I will look and see this weekend..if it's there then that's a great big 'ol DOH!

Sheesh I got a lot to learn.

 

[rural2]

Yeah well, the only way I know anything about it is because I already screwed it up muddling my way through it. First tractor for me also
"a lot to learn" Get in line, take a number...

Sheesh I got a lot to learn.

 

[texasjohn]

Fug ... this is what I love about TBN... everybody starts with not having done anything and takes a shot at it.... and if mystified, there is somebody on TBN who has ideas that can help because they've been there.

My final suggestion is... since your tractor is far away.... print out this entire thread and take it with you.... this way you will have all information with you and can proceed in the right sequence... once you succeed, you'll remember the procedure, it's the first time that's a process of discovery.

Best wishes!

 

[Fug1000]

I have Internet at the new place where my tractor is.

I am at my old house getting it ready and waiting for the kids to finish out the school year and then this house goes up for sale and we off to the new pad.

I can't wait.

Speaking of internet. If any of you rural guys are stuck on dialup or satellite, I discovered a great thing.

Sprint PCS. Unlimited means unlimited and if you can get cell phone service at your new place, you may be able to get sprint PSC. (59 bux a month, broadband speed...I get 1.2MBS down and 100 kps up)

I have it hooked up to a wireless router and we have a broadband hotspot now out in the middle of nowhere.

try the mapping tools at sprint.com. Click on Coverage maps, enter zip code and at the bottom make sure sprint mobile PCS is checked. If your address is in or NEAR the orange, you can get broadband.
My address is 1/4 mile away from orange but with a cellular antenna and an amplifier, I got 4 bars and loving it.

I know it's off topic but I feel like I discovered a secret and I wanted to somehow pay you guys back for all the great info.

If anyone is interested and they want info on how to set it up, give me a holler.

DO NOT CONFUSE this with Verzion's mobile broadband. They suk. If you go over 5GB in a month, you are canceled! Heck if you watch youtube movies a couple days out of the month you will go over that limit.
Sprint is truly unlimited.

 

[JRobyn]

Hey Fug,

You should post the internet info in the Rural Living forum thread about "High Speed Internet".

- Jay

 

[Fug1000]

Hey Fug,

You should post the internet info in the Rural Living forum thread about "High Speed Internet".

- Jay

Good suggestion and now it is done! Thanks.

 

[DanielTerence]

I was a new (first-time) tractor owner a year ago - L2800 HST. It's amazing how many thing are taken for granted and not included in any instruction manual - like your question about the removing the PHD. I wanted to grease the fittings on the u-joints on both ends of the PTO shaft going to the brush hog. It's just about impossible to get the grease in those tight locations. I ended up taking off the plastic, protective covers (flanges) to get to one of them - But it took over an hour to figure out how to get the plastic off.

I also tried a grease fitting designed for right angles, but that just leaks all over the place.

Good luck on your new place and new tractor.