The 10 acre woods

[Dirtboy]

Hi folks, Im lookin to purchase some wooded property. Approx. 10 acres. I will need some tools to cut wood ,ect. I spoke to an old timer woodsman, he told me the stihl brand is about the best, he also told me I would need at least two different size saws. One for limbing and one for larger stuff. Also wedges, axes, sledgehammer ect. He said I was more than welcome to practice in his woods and for A ride back he wood give me some pointers. What brand do you guys feel would give the most reliability? What protective clothing should I consider? Money is not an issue, saftey and reliability are. When I was A kid I worked for A guy cutting wood but forgot alot. Any pointers would be appreciated. Thanks

Adios, Mike

 

[beenthere]

I have been cutting in 13 A of woods for 40 years, and have been using one saw, with a 20 inch bar. A second saw is good for getting you out of trouble, but an axe will work too.

Some wedges for directing the fall of the tree, and to keep a tree from setting back on the back cut, along with the axe and a 'peavy' or 'cant' hook to help roll logs.
If firewood is what you have in mind, then splitting tools if you are going to split, and hauling equipment if you are going to haul the split pieces out of the woods. I drag mine out with a logging tongs on my iMatch now. Have done similar for those 40 years, as I like to deck the logs, buck them to firewood length and then split with a hyd. splitter. Now I stack the split wood on pallets, and move them around with forks on my FEL. Didn't always do that, but I can afford it now and it is much easier on an old man. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Hard hat, ear protection, face protection, and chaps are a must for me. I have examples of needing the hard hat and chaps, that wouldn't have been pretty if I had neglected to have them on. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

A serious tree-felling course if one is available, or finding a site that gives tree-felling pointers is good. Working with your friend is another way to pick up pointers.

I've mostly run a Stihl saw, but would say they are not the only good saw on the market. Just what I bought initially and it has never failed me. Now I have a second one, just because. Still use the first one. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Enjoy your woods. I do mine.

 

[bczoom]

Mike,

Beenthere has covered most everything.
I'd like to expand just a little.
You should also include good boots and gloves.

Looking at mapquest, you're on some flat ground. If you were in a hilly area, I would consider cutting the wood to firewood lengths and trailer it out instead of dragging. Bad things can happen when you drag a log down a hill.

You may want a means to keep your firewood dry. (a woodshed). Tarps help some but don't allow air in to dry the wood.

Depending on the size/volume of trees, you may want to consider a logsplitter that can split in the vertical position.

You may want/need some extra cable or chain to pull a tree that gets hung up on others and doesn't fall to the ground.

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Now I stack the split wood on pallets, and move them around with forks on my FEL. Didn't always do that, but I can afford it now and it is much easier on an old man.)</font> I tried this approach but it didn't work very well in my conditions. To get it to the house, I have to drive through the lawn. The R1 tires made a mess until the ground was frozen.

As for saws, I do like having 2. A large one that can take on most anything as well as a small one for limbs and small trees. As I get up there in years, I don't like the weight of my large saw for pruning.

Stihl vs. Husqvarna is like Ford vs. Chevy. It's personal preference. With the Husky's, you can purchase online or most anywhere so you can get better pricing but with Stihl (unless they've changed something), you can only buy at a dealer. I use a Husqvarna 365 (w/20" & 28" bar) and a 338XTP for the small stuff.

Your JD 485 can do some of the work but you'll probably appreciate the 4320 when you get it.

Brian

 

[Dirtboy]

I want to thank you gentlemen very much for posting such detailed responses. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif Im 38 yrs old and consider myself A country boy , but not A woodsmen. Its nice to see the more seasoned willling to share info. The woods Im lookin at is about 4 miles from my home. I intend to fell the trees and cut them into 16" pieces. If I have my 4320 by then I will split and haul out to home with my pickup truck, if not I will cut the logs and leave them lay in the woods. I should have my tractor by spring. Again thanks alot for the info.

Adios, Mike

 

[Panache]

Watch for what chain is used for replacment. I would advise against anything that used Oregon 91 Chain, type S if I remember right. It is too soft for any serious cutting. I got the smallest Stihl I could that did not use the 91 chain. Check what side trees you have and get an appropriate sized saw. you don't need a 38" bar if your trees aren't bigger than 16". I have a Stihl 025 w/ a 16" bar and a Poulan 3400 with a 20" bar. Correct Bar length depends on the power of the saw. Many of the Sears/Walmart saws have too much bar for the engine size so they can advertise 18" or 20" bar, like longer is better. Husky is a good saw also. I went with Stihl as they had a dealer who serviced also. Husky is in Lowes and others. They have no service. Here is a basic guide to common questions

 

[wushaw]

I have an 025 consumer saw and a 026 professional Sthil and they are like night and day..the 026 has more metal, runs better, all the parts are easily available.
Sthil and Husky both make pro and consumer saws, I would recommend a pro saw it will treat you to many good years of service.
Learn how to service your saw, sharpening chains and all that good stuff.
Oh yea buy one of them stretchy back brace things, you will need it.

 

[Paddy]

First of all..cutting down trees is dangerous. You best like it.

I heat with wood and mostly go for what is down. 10 ac will have all you need to heat your house. Don't look at big trees as 'more wood/fuel', think of them as;

tricky to drop
hard to move
hard to split

I can be very selective. I like the 6" to 18"dia oak/ash/maple.

Cut your wood by use. We all need a certain amount of small stuff. I alway say, "there's enough 'kindlin' in each tree to start the wood in it".

Two saws are nice...but two bars and two chains will do the same thing when(not if) you get her stuck. I just remove the bar and chain and install the back up set. This saves much face when you might have to go to the friend next door for help.

I have used Poulan brand 3400 and 3700 with 18 to 20" bars.

A dremal, they make cuters that fit the gage of chain, will sharpen your chain in 5 min.

Patrick

 

[FOURTEEN]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( some wooded property. Approx. 10 acres. I will need some tools to cut wood ,ect. Money is not an issue, saftey and reliability are. )</font>


<font color="red"> If you have $11,000 to spend the best tool around for woods work is a Power Trac PT-425 with Grapple Bucket </font>!! Check out TBN, "Power Trac", "Grapple" and Power Trac site for lots of info!!

 

[bczoom]

I'll 2nd the vote for getting the professional series saw(s). Both of mine are and it's a huge difference (ie. my 365 has 4.6hp which is darn near what a push mower would have). For husqvarna, the best prices I've found are at alamia.com

Paddy brought something up that I do as well but forgot to mention. For the most part, Mom Nature will bring down the trees for you. I always go for those first. If it's dead and standing, and I don't need it yet, I leave it there as it's staying dry.

I also keep a spare bar and a couple chains for each saw.

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I intend to fell the trees and cut them into 16" pieces. If I have my 4320 by then I will split and haul out to home with my pickup truck)</font> As you get up in years, efficiency may become more necessary as you'll tire easier. Think of ways to reduce the # of times you have to handle the wood. Unless you can get your pickup in the woods, it may be more efficient to drag the entire log to the area where your truck is. Another potential option (if you can't get your truck in the woods) is to use a trailer. Do your cutting/splitting and throw in the trailer. When full, pull it out with the tractor then hook up to your truck.

Brian