TC45D Transmission problems

joelego · Aug 31, 2003

I have several issues with my TC45D transmission. The tractor is two years old with about 220 hours on it. First of all I have the "HST pedal not returning to neutral" problem. It has been back to the dealer 3 or 4 times for this. Twice he adjusted and lubed the pedals. And once he replaced the transmission. Which I found out later from him, means he replaced two pumps in the transmission. On the last service call he adjusted the pedals again, but now it is very and I mean VERY difficult, if not impossible, to get it into high range unless I slightly press on the reverse pedal. Unfortunately this is an intermittent problem. Mostly showing up after i've run it for an hour or so under a light to moderate load. As best as I could, I have not found any post where this problem has been resolved to the owner's satisfaction. The "I guess I will have to live with it" solution is not acceptable. As I've come twice to nearly having a serious accident. And besides I've paid good money for this tractor. The dealer is going to replace the transmission again. They are supposed to pick it up this week when the parts come in.
The second problem is that as I'm moving along, the tractor will come to a complete instantaneous stop. The first two times this happened I was not moving very fast and immediately shut down the tractor. I got out of the tractor to look around as I thought I had hit a large stump with the FEL. Not a thing in sight. I thought I had imagined it, got back on, started the tractor up and it ran as if nothing happened. Another time I was driving down a very smooth, paved road, wide open, or nearly so, throttle, HST cruise control engaged and wham. The tractor literally jumped. It happened so fast that I could not react fast enough. The tractor did not stop or even slow down just a loud bang and a jump. There is definitely something wrong here. Again I have complained to the dealer about this but he can't find anything wrong. Of course he couldn't find anything wrong with the HST pedal not returning until I mentioned to him what I found on this web site.
Last, but not least, is the differential lock. When I engage it I hear this awful grinding noise and I have to press on it several times to engage it. Then it will not release until it feels like it, usually when I'm driving back to the barn, and then with a loud snapping noise.
I'm not sure if these are all related or all separate problems. But any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. The dealer seems to be willing to do anything to fix it but the NH Area Service Manager said that he had never heard of the HST pedal not returning to neutral problem either. So I know I can't believe any thing he says. And he told the dealer he must see the problem before he can authorize a repair. I would gladly mention his name but I don't want any flaming problems. Again any suggestions, hints, ideas or whatever would be appreciated. (Other than buying one of those orange or greens ones.)

Thanks
Joe

tc35dforme · Aug 31, 2003

hmmmm.....

as for the first issue...has the spring been replaced ?? Maybe its a little tired ?

for # 2, could one of your safety interlock switches ( seat switch ) be the culprit. Maybe its got a bad connection or something.

as for # 3 ....I have no idea, but it doesn't sound too good. Grinding is very seldom a good thing when a transmission is concerned.

jinman · Sep 1, 2003

Joe, from your description, my first inclination is to tell you that you need to find another NH dealer. I believe your current dealer's service department is causing you more problems than he is solving. /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif Having said that, I guess I should ask you if you had any of these transmission stalling problems before your dealer worked on your transmission? I cannot believe there is anything inside the transmission which would need to be replaced that would cause the pedals to not return to neutral. This has all been identified as a lubrication problem with the pedal mechanism under the right-side operator platform. A little spray lube in the right spot has cured the problem in every instance I am aware of with owners of Class III Boomers. I had a broken pedal mechanism and took it upon myself to disassemble my tractor and fix the problem. As a complete "rookie" Boomer mechanic, I was able to reassemble and adjust the pedals to my complete satisfaction. My tractor now operates at least as good if not better than when it was new and I have 475 hours on it. I just think something in your tractor was broken while your dealer was "fixing" it. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

Sometimes I have to bump a pedal to get the transmission to go between Hi-Neutral-Low ranges, but most of the time all I have to do is let the pedals come to neutral position and change ranges with no tapping of the pedal required. I do often have to tap a pedal to get FWD engaged/disengaged, but with only slight effort required. Your problem of the transmission locking down and the differential lock grinding and not releasing means something is very, very wrong. Do your brakes work normally? Is there a chance that your brakes are not releasing properly? The chance that a faulty brake could be causing the problem is "way out there" and the only other thing I can come up with besides the transmission. If the engine is shutting down, then it might be the safety switch like TC35DFORME described. If the engine continues to run, it can't be the interlock system that is causing the problem. I would almost suggest that there might be some foreign material that is becoming lodged in your gear train or closing off hydraulic flow. That could account for the noise you hear, but /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif again, I'm just guessing. I think what you need most is a good, reputable mechanic to completely disassemble your tractor and find your problem. I wouldn't accept anything less. It sounds to me like your transmission is ready to self-destruct at any moment. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif Good luck with getting it fixed.

mike10 · Sep 1, 2003

1) With the engine off do the pedals come back to neutral quickly? If not, you definately have a linkage problem. There are two grease fittings on the hydrastat pedals and linkage one of which is harder to find.
2) If the range lever is hard to move it could be binding on the pivot shaft below the fender. Pull the pin and check if the lever freely pivots. The adjustment could also be off. The lever should go fully into the range before the lever hits the end of the slot. The range gears are not scynchronized so it is not unusual to push one of the hydro pedels for it to fall fully into gear. If you did not have to do this in the past you were fortunate.
3)When the tractor came to a halt when moving slowly were you using the cruise control? Did the engine rpm's pull down when any of these instances occurred? Had you used the differential lock shortly before these instances? If the dealer is going to replace the hydro again, he will right at the range gearbox. Have him take a look in it. It is possible this is a related problem, but not to likely.
4) Most people do not engage the differential lock properly, me included. The proper way to engage the differential lock is to either come to a complete stop and then engage the differential lock, or engage it before the wheels start spinning. On your particular tractor when you push the pedel down you are moving a cross shaft across the top of the differential. When the shaft moves it pulls the locking pins into the differnential. If the wheels are spinning it is hard for the pins to engage in the differential, thus you get the noise you are describing. As for disengaging the differential lock, the pull must be even between both driving wheels for the spring to pull the pins out of the differential, so it may take you driving the tractor for the pins to disengage. Something else I would look at is the possibility that you have damaged the pins causing the pins to burr on the end and hang up. Don't overlook this as a possible problem with your tractor making that banging noise.

jinman · Sep 1, 2003

Mike, I see what you mean about the cruise control. If it disengaged suddenly because of a faulty or misadjusted brake pedal switch, it could cause the tractor to surge. If that was the case, the pedals should also have come to neutral position. It only took me about one time disengaging my cruise without my foot on the forward pedal to realize how quickly the tractor can stop. Your advice is very good and is a point I overlooked.

Also, I use my differential lock a lot because of uneven ground. I love that feature and mine works perfectly. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif It always releases just as soon as it's not needed, just like it says in the owners manual.

joelego · Sep 2, 2003

1. Since the dealer has been doing all the work I assume he would check something as simple as a weak spring. But then again I will mention it to him.

2. Before I replied to your post I went to the tractor and set the cruise control on at a moderate rate of speed. I stood up. There is a world of difference in the way the tractor stopped. It was a gradual (compared to the other condition) stop. No jerk, no strange noise. If this were a manual transmission I would describe it as being in forward and reverse at the same time. But only for a fraction of a second.

3. The traction lock didn't act this way until the dealer replaced the transmission. I guess I know where to look.

Thanks
Joe

joelego · Sep 2, 2003

Jim,

You are probably right. The dealer seems to move quite a few Boomers. Or at least he always has 10 to 15 of them in his yard. Mostly Class III. I figured there service dept knew what it was doing. The linkage has been sprayed, lubed, adjusted many times. All to no avail. My biggest concern is safety. If one of my kids or wife are injured or worse........

When the transmission refuses to go into Hi range I have to "bump" the pedal a little more than I think I should have to. But now that I think about it, why should I have to "bump" the pedal at all?

The brakes work just fine. The differential lock problem did not show up until immediately after the transmission replacement. If there were another dealer in the area I would take it there.

The engine never shuts down. I just run into this invisible glass wall that, after the initial shock, just shatters. I think you are right about the self-destruct. I just don't know what else I can do about it.

Thanks
Joe

joelego · Sep 2, 2003

Mike,

1. I guess it all depends on how you define quickly. But I would say yes. Again this is an intermittent problem. Usually under a light to medium load. It will not show up for 5 to 50 hours. Than I can get it to repeat itself several times in a row.

2. Another intermittent problem. The NH operator's manual says on page 2-13 "To select the desired operating range, the H.S.T. directional pedals must be in the neutral position."

3. No I was not using the cruise control, differential lock-possibly. It happens so fast I do not perceive any difference in engine speed. Just a jerking motion with a strange noise and then nothing. The tractor continues as if nothing happened.

4.After I read what you had to say about engaging the differential lock I had to re-read my operator's manual. Mostly because what you said is opposite of what my dealer told me. The manual says to engage the lock while the wheels are turning slowly. I am really confused. With the little more I know now what you say makes more sense.

The last two problem's didn't show up until immediately after my first transmission replacement. So I would guess some how they are related.

Thanks for your help. I am going to wait until after this next transmission is in. Hopefully they will do a better job. And maybe I'll learn a little more from all the great people on this forum. Thanks again.

Joe