TC35DA Range lever wont find neautral 2 start.Please help!

[Fastdraw]

I have a 06 TC35DA HST. My issue is that the bell cranck on the bottom left side of the trans has developed slop/loose play in in it and I have to wiggle the lever to find the sweet spot to get it to start. Its not the linkage out of adjustment or the detent on the lever arm.. I disconnected both to check and the problem is the piece of round stock that is comming out of the trans. My concearn is how this piece come off/out. It appears to be only one bolt that holds it in, but I am very cautious of taking it out due to the fact I dont know how it works on the inside. Can anyone please help me with any info on this. I fear that eventually this will break off inside the trans and iI will be in a mess later on.

Thanks,

Mitch

 

[jinman]

Mitch, I answered as best I could in the PM I sent to you. Hopefully it will give you the info you need. Just please keep me informed of what you find. I'll be in and out here due to a family members hospitalization, but I'll try to keep an eye on this thread.

 

[Fastdraw]

I really do appreciate it. I looked at the diagrams on the link you provided and talked with some guys I worked with at the plant today. We have disassembled these dozens of times but never went into the transmissions or engines due to the fact Shibura wouldnt warranty them. One of my guys is still working at the plant for a few more weeks till its completely shut down and he is going to look a little deeper into what it will intell to go in the trans. Looks like we will have to tear down the back half at best to get the top plate off. Its the guts that worries me though. Hope all will be well for your family and thanks for the info you really put me on top of the issue. I will keep the thread posted as progress is made on any repair.

THX,

MITCH

 

[skinnr]

Hey Mitch, I did a complete rebuild of the rear differetial and have tons of pictures that will give you a good idea what you might be getting into. I can post them tomorrow when I get back to the office.

 

[Fastdraw]

Thanks again for any info on this. I hope that this wont be as bad as I think, but you never know. I figured about the time the plant shut down my tractor would fall to pieces..lol...just my luck. Good thing I've built a few over the last 11 years!

 

[jinman]

Mitch, I'm just guessing, but it sounds like NH is closing the GA plant due to its cutting ties to Shibaura and changing to LS tractors. Is that right? If so, good luck finding more work. I sure don't understand this move by NH and expect it to not be a good business deal with them in the long run.

 

[skinnr]

Mitch here are some pics of the internals. The lever that comes to the ouside pushes and pulls on a collar that slides on a pin. This collar then move the grears. I don't know if this helps but at least you know what you are looking at now. Most likely it is the shaft that comes to the outside. Being it is held in by one bolt I am pretty sure that it just floats and is not actually attached to the internal collar. I would think that you can pull this straight out without any consequences. Why it is sloppy is strange, but I would pull the bolt and shaft before I committed to tearing the top end off.

 

[jinman]

Mitch here are some pics of the internals. The lever that comes to the ouside pushes and pulls on a collar that slides on a pin. This collar then move the grears. I don't know if this helps but at least you know what you are looking at now. Most likely it is the shaft that comes to the outside. Being it is held in by one bolt I am pretty sure that it just floats and is not actually attached to the internal collar. I would think that you can pull this straight out without any consequences. Why it is sloppy is strange, but I would pull the bolt and shaft before I committed to tearing the top end off.

Skinnr, the shaft with the lever on it WILL NOT come out of the transmission unless something is broken. It is removed from inside the case. The single bolt on the outside just holds a locking collar in place so the shaft and lever cannot slide back into the transmission if the outer shifting bellcrank is removed. On the end of shaft inside the case is a lever with a ball on the end. That ball fits up inside the shifting fork that is visible in your photos. When the shaft is rotated, the lever moves the shifting fork along a shaft with three notches in it for the indent ball to seat into. Those notches correspond to ranges I, Neutral, or II.

What Mitch needs to do is get that cover off his transmission and then shift thru the ranges so he can see what is happening/not happening correctly inside the transmission. If I were a betting man, I'd bet his indent ball and spring are malfunctioning so that he never feels the proper range when he shifts. It's either that or maybe a broken shifter fork or shifting lever on the end of the shaft.

 

[Fastdraw]

Thanks guys, I guess it looks like the back end will have to be tore down. Im still waiting on some info from my guy looking into it for me at the plant. I think im just going to use it like it is for a while until I feel like it has to be done.I dont think it will hurt anything, its just a little annoying as of now when you start it up. If it were a simple couple hours work it would be one thing but this will take a good few days work at best. I sure do appreciate the info on all of this though.

Thx,
Mitch

 

[barbqranch]

I don't really know a lot about your situation, but are you sure it is a mechanical problem and not electrical?