3-Point Hitch TC30 3 point adjustable link

[michael.white]

Back in April of '23, my 3 point adjustable link (SBA370011581) broke:

I've been told that, since they're cast, they can't be welded. Of course, I didn't know that at first and I guess the guy I paid to weld it didn't know that either because what you're seeing above is the second time it broke. Anyway, I bought the tractor used back in '12 and figured maybe it was a bit abused, so I coughed up the $300 for a New Old Stock (NOS) one. Two years later, here's the NOS one:

AFAIK, I don't abuse my tractor - it gets used five times a year to 5' bush hog 4 or so moderately bumpy acres, pulls a 5' tiller and a two bottom plow through a 1000 square foot garden, and sometimes I hook up a log splitter. Dad's got a Ford 1700 with twice my 600 hours, and his adjustment link has bent but never sheared like this.

Now NOS ones are $500. I said screw that, I'm going to figure out something else. Here's what I came up with (NOTE: you will bend a fender):

These generic adjustment links (SKU 159750, I think for Kobota and others) are under $35, but the pivot part at the top is 3/4" while the TC-30 uses 7/8". So I removed the arm (you need a 10mm socket, some snapring pliers, and a hammer) and removed the 7/8" pin. I then bought a spacer that's used for a camshaft to reduce from 7/8" to 3/4" off of Amazon: Amazon.com

I trimmed the spacer down using a Dremel cut-off wheel to the same width as the 7/8" opening on the arm. If it's a bit short or long, that's OK. Hacksaw would also work.

I then bought nuts and bolts from McMaster-Carr (you can save some $$ if you can find them locally):

• Zinc Yellow-Chromate Plated Hex Head Screw, Grade 8 Steel, 3/4"-16 Thread Size, 6" Long, Fully Threaded (92620A881)
• Zinc Yellow-Chromate Plated Grade 8 Steel SAE Washer with Material Certificate, for 3/4" Screw Size, 0.812" ID, 1.469" OD (98023A121)
• Zinc-Yellow-Chromate-Plated Steel Split Lock Washer for 3/4" Screw Size, 0.766" ID, 1.265" OD (91104A047)
• High-Strength Steel Hex Nut Grade 8, Zinc Yellow-Chromate Plated, 3/4"-16 Thread Size (94895A840)
• High-Strength Steel Thin-Profile Hex Nut Zinc Yellow-Chromate Plated, 3/4"-16 Size (93839A840)

I went with fine threads to hopefully reduce the sliding friction. I used a press to push the following into the arm (make sure you're pusing them in the right orientation):

1. Bolt
2. Lock washer
3. Flat washer
4. Spacer

Once the flat washer is flush with the arm, put the bolt head in a vise, add a flat washer and nut, then tighten good and tight. Re-install the arm onto the tractor. Grease up the bolt. Install the adjutable link and add a regular nut and a thin-profile nut as a lock nut on the end. Jam the thin-profile nut into the regular nut.

Again, you will dent your fender if you use this:

At this point I don't care about the dent - it's not a show tractor and it doesn't impact anything. I plan on giving it the rattle can treatment next time I remember to buy some.
All-in-all I'm in under $200, and that's including a second adjustment link (spare), a spare bolt, extra nuts, and extra washers. If you can find local hardware, you'll likely be in under $100. Plus if the link breaks again, it's much easier to find these generic links versus the New Holland ones.
I've used this to bush hog over my acres (takes a few hours) without issue. Anyway, hope this is helpful to anyone in a similar situation (or who knows someone in a similar situation).

 

[CalG]

Amazing what could be replaced with a turnbuckle and a short few lengths of chain.

Lift links are not sacred , nor magic.

 

[LouNY]

What kind of bind have you been putting the 3 point in to break the lift link?
It will be interesting to see how long the 3/4" bolt stays straight. Of course being a grade 8 it is likely to snap instead of bending.
Good luck.

 

[ptsg]

I'm more worried about twisting that upper lift arm though, rather than breaking the bolt.

Also, those parts are not cast. They can be welded and were welded from factory.

Compare dimensions but this one may be an alternative: https://www.agrisupply.com/adjustable-pin-side-link-124416/p/124416/

There are plenty more places to buy generic side links, just need to check dimensions pretty much.

 

[thclimer]

This brake of the lift arm seems pretty rare. The original broke, its was repaired and broke again. Then a new replacement broke, I'd say it might be time to re-evaluate your uses of the implements on your 3-point hitch.

The first one that broke could be written off as a material defect. It was then repaired, but that repair may just not have been as strong as the original. However, to then have another original brake seems to be indicating the way its being used might be the problem.

For this lifting arm to break/bend the side forces have to be fairly significant. Almost like a ground engaging implement is being left engaged in the ground while making a sharp turn.

Fortunately this part (lifting arm) is easily replaced and not anywhere as expensive as replacing your transmission case.

 

[Tinhack]

This brake of the lift arm seems pretty rare. The original broke, its was repaired and broke again. Then a new replacement broke, I'd say it might be time to re-evaluate your uses of the implements on your 3-point hitch.

Amen to that. I would call that abuse for sure. I'm guessing OP doesn't have a flexible top link or is dragging his brush hog (set too low) through the dirt on turns.

 

[CATRAT66]

Constant right turn and bumping tail wheel on something?

 

[ptsg]

Amen to that. I would call that abuse for sure. I'm guessing OP doesn't have a flexible top link or is dragging his brush hog (set too low) through the dirt on turns.

I can't see how that would cause this issue.

I drag my cutter on the ground all the time, that's how it's suppose to work. It has pushed trees, walls and more while turning, to the point it drags the tractor sideways. Never once had any issues with any of the 3 pt components.

 

[toot77]

I have a 1520 that I have put on over 3600 hours. Half of that is with a 5’ mid mount mower and the other half is split between a 5’ bush hog, 5’ tiller, & a 5’ front snow blower. I also have a 3pt log splitter I use from time to time. My ground is rocks with a little dirt mixed in. Rocks range from grape size to 4 feet dia. The tiller has had a tough life, it has bounced over a lot of rocks (positive plug here for Landpride). Several years ago my adjustable link failed. However, it did not break, the threads wore and it pulled apart. I expect part of that may have been because I may have not been diligent at keeping the locknut tight. I replaced mine with new OE from NH. I recall the cost being high at that time, but certainly no where near what it is now.

As someone mentioned above, those parts are not cast. It is all weldable.

Looking at the first photo, I see a three things that interest me. First, the shaft is bent. Second, the joint where the rod is broken off of the U bracket appears to me to have been broken and repaired at least once before. That weld on OE parts looks to me to be a friction spin weld.

The failed weld looks to be an electric (mig?) weld. Third, Why is the part so beat up?

To me, these three things all point to the link being installed incorrectly, perhaps reversed so the angle of the top swivel eye being reversed.

Just guessing, but something really unusual is happening. From the amount of bouncing that my tiller has done over rocks and through rocks, I am pretty convinced that link should not break if installed correctly, regardless of almost any misuse. I do not see any way you could cause a bend in the link with any standard cat 1 - 3 point attachment. The arms could bounce off the tires all day without putting a bind on the link.

I appreciate the ingenuity to use generic aftermarket parts to make a repair. In this case, I would be concerned about the length, or distance that the link is now away from the lift arm. Not so much for concern of the fender, but because there is a twisting force being added to the lift arm, as also mentioned above. When I am faced with this predicament again, I will probably also try to use a generic link, but I will cut the top swivel eye off and re-use the original swivel eye and weld it in place at its original angle so as to maintain the OE link geometry. Another option if the turnbuckle is not damaged is to procure or turn a 17mm threaded rod with correct thread and replace just that section.