Talk me OUT of buying a 1025R please...

   / Talk me OUT of buying a 1025R please... #11  
I own a JD 2025r and it would do what you want. A 2032r would be better, a 2038r is nearly identical but with more power. A larger B sized or an L sized Kubota would be good. A couple of tractors I think are a bargin are the 25 hp machines by JD and Kubota, the 3025e and the 25hp L by Kubota.
 
   / Talk me OUT of buying a 1025R please... #12  
How much time do you have to do these tasks? ....and is this going to be a full-time residence or a temporary one? The first could mean that you may have enough time to chip away at tasks with a 1025R, but the latter would mean that time might be more limited and that transporting it around might be needed.

If you haven't already seen it, there's probably a lot of advice in: Potential 1st time Tractor Owner that would also apply here....

...and remember a tractor basically just a tool carrier and it's the tools that you'll need, the time you have, and the uniqueness of your situation that should drive your buying decision.

Just my $0.02 though......
 
   / Talk me OUT of buying a 1025R please... #13  
Take a look at the L2501 Kubota. Weighs more than the e series Jd and more lifting capabilities than a e series jd. 3 speed hydro tranny on the Kubota and jd is only 2 speed. Larger front axles on the Kubota as well.
 
   / Talk me OUT of buying a 1025R please...
  • Thread Starter
#14  
Tractors are inherently unstable operating on sloped ground. Tractor rear wheel/tire spread, sometimes adjustable, is a critical factor increasing compact tractor stability working sloped or uneven ground. A 6" to 10" increase in rear axle width substantially decreases tractor rollover potential. Tractor width is an approximation of rear axle width.

If your 15 acres is hilly consider a tractor of 3,500 - 4,000 pounds bare weight. Weight and width will provide a much wider safety margin on hilly land.

When considering a tractor purchase bare tractor weight first, tractor horsepower second, rear axle width third (stability), rear wheel/tire ballast fourth (stability and traction).
Super Helpful!

So heres the specs on 3 diff tractors (Mahindra' because I had their specs in front of me):
1640 40 HP 3175lbs 62" wide
4550 50 HP 5192lbs 82" wide
2660 60 HP 4145lbs 71" wide

So, at first glance, (beside some other features like HST vs Gear), the 2660 would seem to be the better choice, but based off what you're saying, the heavier, wider 4550, while lower HP- might be a better contender?
And the 1640, nearly 20" narrower, and the lightest, might be a poor choice?
 
   / Talk me OUT of buying a 1025R please... #15  
I am in your same situation except four years after I found my “good deal” on a 105r. Now somebody else got a good deal and I am looking for the same thing you are. My Deere did a lot of light duty tasks. It mowed mostly and when i did other chores it just couldn’t handle it. Now i am on to my second tractor. You can get the deal but with what you described it will end up being your first tractor until you get the next one you really needed.
 
   / Talk me OUT of buying a 1025R please... #16  
I really like my 3038 and sounds about like what you need. But! When you say a good deal on the 1025, if it was a GREAT deal you could always trade it at a JD dealer for a larger tractor.
 
   / Talk me OUT of buying a 1025R please...
  • Thread Starter
#17  
Thanks for the guidance guys.

Went bigger- for the stabilty- not as much for the HP.

40 HP tractor, 3600lbs tractor weight (with filled rear tires).
 
   / Talk me OUT of buying a 1025R please... #19  
Yeah, what did you get. I ended up with an L3301 from selling my Deere.
 
 
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