TACH HAND STICKING

[REDPRIDE]

Any quick fixes for a tach hand sticking, thought I'd seen something on here about it before, did a quick search but didnt see anything. I have a 5530 2wd, can usually just give a "quick pop" with the palm of your hand and it starts working but if theres something I could do to fix that would certainly like to. Thanks for any info!!

 

[Sysop]

I'd check for lose connections first, reseating cleaning any connections as I checked them.

 

[sixdogs]

I have a Kubota L4300 and had a sticky and bouncy tack a couple months ago. Turned out the tach was cable drive and the cable needed grease. It was easy to get apart and I used white lithium grease. Works like a champ now.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Any quick fixes for a tach hand sticking, thought I'd seen something on here about it before, did a quick search but didnt see anything. I have a 5530 2wd, can usually just give a "quick pop" with the palm of your hand and it starts working but if theres something I could do to fix that would certainly like to. Thanks for any info!!

A blow on the right side of the dash is the most expedient fix it seems. My 7520 has been doing this intermittently for about 1000Hrs.
larry

 

[burzynsr]

I have a 4025 and have disassembled the dash to check connections for the very same problem. All connections were good. I think humidity plays a role in this condition according to my dealer. One time the temp gage stuck also. One quick rap usually solves the problem. Mine started at about 3 years of age and has been doing it for the last 6 months. A permant fix would be nice if someone has it. I think time plays a greater role in this condition than actual engine hours.

 

[flusher]

Any quick fixes for a tach hand sticking, thought I'd seen something on here about it before, did a quick search but didnt see anything. I have a 5530 2wd, can usually just give a "quick pop" with the palm of your hand and it starts working but if theres something I could do to fix that would certainly like to. Thanks for any info!!

My 2008 Mahindra 5525 has the same problem-- and my fix is the same as yours. However, it usually takes a half dozen whacks to get that POS tack needle to read upscale. You'd think Mahindra's engineering center could wrestle this little problem to the ground--but I guess it's not a high priority over there.

 

[flusher]

Any quick fixes for a tach hand sticking, thought I'd seen something on here about it before, did a quick search but didnt see anything. I have a 5530 2wd, can usually just give a "quick pop" with the palm of your hand and it starts working but if theres something I could do to fix that would certainly like to. Thanks for any info!!

My 2008 Mahindra 5525 has the same problem-- and my fix is the same as yours. However, it usually takes a half dozen whacks to get that POS tack needle to read upscale. You'd think Mahindra's engineering center could wrestle this little problem to the ground--but I guess it's not a high priority over there.

 

[D Miller]

My 2007 5525 also has this problem with fuel gauge, tachometer, and temperature gauge. The digital hour meter is not affected. The tach accuracy has also become erratic. As last winter wore on its reading slowly dropped to the point where it was showing three hundred rpm at idle. Over spring and summer it has crept up past the normal eight or nine hundred to fifteen hundred while actual engine idle is unchanged. I think the needle may be slipping on the shaft but I don't really know. Slapping the housing on the sides and top (like flusher often five or six times) will usually get them going. Another poster suggested the paint on the stop pin might be sticky but I've seen the needles bounce off the pin when I whacked the the thing. I would change the whole cluster if I thought it would fix the problem.

 

[flusher]

My 2007 5525 also has this problem with fuel gauge, tachometer, and temperature gauge. The digital hour meter is not affected. The tach accuracy has also become erratic. As last winter wore on its reading slowly dropped to the point where it was showing three hundred rpm at idle. Over spring and summer it has crept up past the normal eight or nine hundred to fifteen hundred while actual engine idle is unchanged. I think the needle may be slipping on the shaft but I don't really know. Slapping the housing on the sides and top (like flusher often five or six times) will usually get them going. Another poster suggested the paint on the stop pin might be sticky but I've seen the needles bounce off the pin when I whacked the the thing. I would change the whole cluster if I thought it would fix the problem.

Same here--all three of those gauges on my tractor stick on the downscale stop pin.

 

[SPYDERLK]

I find that a blow is more effective if the engine is at a fairly lo rpm.