T273 Initial thoughts

[Mike5252]

Before anyone starts giving me grief for not posting pictures yet, let me just say the weather has been good the last few days and when I have to choose between tearing up stuff w/ the tractor or taking pictures, the taking pictures part loses out everytime.

A couple initial thoughts/questions:
-My tractor is idling at an indicated 1300 rpm. Doesn't that seem a little fast? The plate on the engine says a bare engine idles at 970 rpm. Should I try backing off the idle speed a little? The adjustment is in plain sight right above the oil filter.
-Changing the oil filter looks like it will be a little bit of a trick the way its nestled in behind the loader mounting bracket (for that matter checking the oil isn't the easiest thing in the world).
-The control for the rear auxilliary SCV's is easy to hit, and once it is "engaged" this seems to bypass all hydraulic flow so the 3 pt will not operate. Has anyone else run into this, or explored removing this handle while not using the rear remotes? The first time I had done this it took me better part of an hour to figure out why the 3 pt would not lift.
-The muffler bracket was broken on my tractor at delivery. I've already contacted dealer to order new muffler. Not a big deal, but the muffler tends to vibrate against the hood occasionally as it is.
-I think my PTO switch isn't working right. If I push it in the PTO activates, but as soon as I release the PTO disengages. I don't have any attachments on the PTO, so not sure if that's the reason or if the switch is bad. Regardless, I'm getting a new switch. Probably a part it never hurts to have a couple of around anyway.

Having a blast so far. Pictures soon.....really.

 

[Bud Soda]

A little bit about my Montana(same tractor). I turned my Idle down to 1k the day I bought it.
I changed the oil filter at 50 hours with a oil filter strap wrench that hooks to a socket handle.
Yes I hit the control leaver for the remote every time I get off the tractor. I plan on rigging two springs(one on either side) to keep it in the center. That or cut about two inches off of it.

I had my muffler replaced at 30 hours. The new one is made alot better and has an extra brace.
Another problem I had was the parking brake stopped working because a spring broke. Dealer charged me $36.00 for the small spring even though the tractor was under warranty, I am still mad about that.
One thing not to do. Don't put too much grease in the front axle pivot. I pumped a hand grease gun six times and it pushed the pivot bushing off the end about two inches and bent the flat steel support bracket that the pivot mounts to. I had to take it apart. and straighten it and then put the bushing back in the center pivot.

One other thing. I have a 5 disk that I use. My tractor will not lift it up high enough. I would like to find one of the adjustable lift arms like is on the right side of the tractor to put on the left side. That way I could tighten it up so I could get the disc higher off the ground.

 

[YanmarFever]

A little bit about my Montana(same tractor). I turned my Idle down to 1k the day I bought it.
I changed the oil filter at 50 hours with a oil filter strap wrench that hooks to a socket handle.
Yes I hit the control leaver for the remote every time I get off the tractor. I plan on rigging two springs(one on either side) to keep it in the center. That or cut about two inches off of it.

I had my muffler replaced at 30 hours. The new one is made alot better and has an extra brace.
Another problem I had was the parking brake stopped working because a spring broke. Dealer charged me $36.00 for the small spring even though the tractor was under warranty, I am still mad about that.
One thing not to do. Don't put too much grease in the front axle pivot. I pumped a hand grease gun six times and it pushed the pivot bushing off the end about two inches and bent the flat steel support bracket that the pivot mounts to. I had to take it apart. and straighten it and then put the bushing back in the center pivot.

One other thing. I have a 5 disk that I use. My tractor will not lift it up high enough. I would like to find one of the adjustable lift arms like is on the right side of the tractor to put on the left side. That way I could tighten it up so I could get the disc higher off the ground.

Bud, if you mount your top link bar on the bottom hole of the bkt, it will lift your disc higher.

 

[Bud Soda]

Bud, if you mount your top link bar on the bottom hole of the bkt, it will lift your disc higher.

Only has one hole I wish the tractor had a little taller tire on it. I contacted both Montana, and TYM about buying a set of ag tires,and wheels that their site list as an option, but none seem to know where to order them from.
I do wish they would sell parts through their web site. I could just order and install another jack screw on the left lift arm and that would let me pick the disc up a few more inches.

 

[YanmarFever]

Only has one hole I wish the tractor had a little taller tire on it. I contacted both Montana, and TYM about buying a set of ag tires,and wheels that their site list as an option, but none seem to know where to order them from.
I do wish they would sell parts through their web site. I could just order and install another jack screw on the left lift arm and that would let me pick the disc up a few more inches.

Bud, go back to the dealer that you bought it from and ask them to order you some new wheels & tires.

Heck, most dealers keep extra sets in stock.

Or go to their website and find another dealer that will order them for you

Also is your top link to long? That will make your disc run low to the ground

 

[TYMinColton]

Have to agree with Bud, my T273 also tends to drag some implements (especially my set of discs). More of an inconvenience than a true design flaw, but the solution is also pretty much as stated by TractorErnie. If you really crank down the length of your top link, this will dramatically raise the implement off the ground for travel/transport. Unfortunately, when you do get to your final destination, and are ready to drop the implement into the soil, you'll most likely need to crank the top-link back to its original length to ensure the implement is level when turning the soil.
Good luck!
Pete

 

[Gittyup]

Sounds like you guys need a hydraulic top link.

 

[Bud Soda]

Sounds like you guys need a hydraulic top link.

No, adjusting the top link as short as possible doesn't solve the problem. Being a small tractor to begin with it just doesn't have enough lift height.
My problem comes when driving up the ramps while loading on a trailer. Only way for me to solve the problem is to put a adjustable jack screw on the left side lift arm. (There is already one on the right side). That way when I used my disc I could shorten both sides and the 3 point lift about three more inches of lift height. Now if I could just find a matching jack screw? Wonder if a Montana, or TYM dealer would order me one?

 

[TYMinColton]

Good ideas. You might try Steve at Valley View tractor (http://www.valleyviewtractor.com/). I realize he's way out here on the left-coast, but can drop-ship any part you're looking for and have it to you in less than a week. Giving him a ring or drop him an e-mail; I'm pretty sure he can get you what you need.
Good luck,
pete

 

[Gittyup]

No, adjusting the top link as short as possible doesn't solve the problem. Being a small tractor to begin with it just doesn't have enough lift height.
My problem comes when driving up the ramps while loading on a trailer. Only way for me to solve the problem is to put a adjustable jack screw on the left side lift arm. (There is already one on the right side). That way when I used my disc I could shorten both sides and the 3 point lift about three more inches of lift height. Now if I could just find a matching jack screw? Wonder if a Montana, or TYM dealer would order me one?

Have you tried backing it onto the trailer?

 

[Bkjohns]

-Changing the oil filter looks like it will be a little bit of a trick the way its nestled in behind the loader mounting bracket (for that matter checking the oil isn't the easiest thing in the world).
-The control for the rear auxilliary SCV's is easy to hit, and once it is "engaged" this seems to bypass all hydraulic flow so the 3 pt will not operate. Has anyone else run into this, or explored removing this handle while not using the rear remotes? The first time I had done this it took me better part of an hour to figure out why the 3 pt would not lift.
-The muffler bracket was broken on my tractor at delivery. I've already contacted dealer to order new muffler. Not a big deal, but the muffler tends to vibrate against the hood occasionally as it is.

Oil filter change is easy with the proper tool such as a wrench with the socket adapter on the end or a modified strap wrench.

The auxiliary SCV control is a 3 position lever. In the middle is disconnected, to the right (from the seat when you are in it) is normal operation for the backhoe or other accessories, and to the left is supposed to be reversed direction of the flow. If mine is in the left position, the backhoe won't work. I don't know about the 3pt stuff because I haven't used any attachments yet.

The muffler problem was addressed early on (a couple of years ago) as a warranty item. If you bought an older stock tractor it might not have been upgraded. If your tractor is a current year model you might still be under warranty. Either way you shouldn't have to pay for a muffler if has broken. Take a look at the muffler bracket that attaches to the frame at the end of the exhaust pipe (you might have to take the bolt and washers off to see this) and if it is a hole in the end it is probably the old style. The new ones have a slot that the bolt and washers go into to allow movement of the exhaust with frame flexing.

A couple of other things that have happened to mine in the last 2 years are both vibration related. One was the fuel pump bracket broke (3 times) before I modified it myself. The latest problem is a broken bracket attach point on the hydro fluid cooling radiator (the small one in front of the engine radiator - I think it is hydro). Still have to fix that one before the hydro lines break.

Overall I'm happy with my tractor. Mine is the first year of production so hopefully some of these things have been redesigned to work better.

Good luck.