Super Cheap Jinma 224 with a TY290

[Keydet88]

I'm buying a 224 with a Koyker 150 loader.. Its a 99 Model with less than 200 hours on it.. HOWEVER, the Engine oil was neglected, shows none on the dipstick, and is seized.. There isn't any oil in either of the front drives either...thought the bearings are rough, the gears look fine..

Has anyone had an engine seize due to no oil? What would go first? a rod bearing or a main?

 

[quicksandfarmer]

I don't know what would go first. Sounds like a fun project to pull the engine and just tear into it and see what's wrong. Just take stuff off until it turns over-- accessories first, then the head, then go into the bottom end. Parts are available from a number of sources. If you have time you can order parts straight from China from Ali Express and save a few bucks.

These engines will lock if the hydraulic pump is dead-headed. I'd take the hydraulic pump off and see if it turns before tearing into anything. Same with the starter motor.

Many of these tractors were sold as crate tractors, where people would buy them direct from China and assemble them themselves. The crate tractors were filled with "shipping" fluids which were some sort of mystery liquid, you were supposed to flush it out and fill it with regular fluids. If it failed after 200 hours there's some chance the shipping fluids were never replaced. So if you get the engine going you're going to want to replace all the fluids.

 

[mrmikey]

That's what mine was. Bought it new and the bushing for the cam shaft was installed wrong and not lined up with the port feeding oil to the top end which wrote off the camshaft and rockers. Once I got that repaired it was a tough engine, worked great, very simple design, solid rockers, no fancy stuff inside and very easy to take apart. I got my parts from Tommy at Affordable Tractors, great crew to work with.......Mike

 

[Keydet88]

So I did some exploratory surgery, pulled the oil filter.. it was EMPTY

pulled the stuck rod cap.. found this

but the crank journal was this

so i ordered new rod bearings, put them in..

closed the patient back up, left the oil filter off, and cranked by hand until I got oil out of the filter housing..
Installed the filter.. cranked it with the starter, dropped the Decompression lever, and it started right up..

I drained a couple gallons of egg nog out of the transmission, some from the transfer case drain, some from the rear drain back by the axles..
pumped the old diesel out of the tank (it was 6 months old) into the transmission and ran it around the yard a few minutes, and drained that out.

I added 3 gallons of 80W90 back into the transmission, filled the tank with fresh diesel fuel and greased every grease zerk I could find..
Loader works just fine, but its a bit stiff steering with the manual gearbox..

Oh, the working hour metr, with yellowed plastic cover reads 128.5 hrs when I pulled it apart, just over 130 now..

What oil and how much goes into the manual steering box.. I won't get back to it for a few months.. so theres no hurry..

Oh, the oil pressure sending unit is dripping oil, straight on the ground and impossible for the operator to see it..

This summer I work on the Caroni 5 ft finish mower, get it freed up and useable...

Any help is greatly appreciated

 

[Gale Hawkins]

Do you have any photos of the main bearings and crank?

 

[Keydet88]

No, as I only pulled the driveshaft and bottom engine cover off.. The number 1 rod bearing had oil between it and the crank, and there was oil dripping off the camshaft.. so I rolled both rod bearing sets in and torqued the rods down... to see the crank I would have had to completely disassemble the front half of the tractor, and pull the crank out the back... Looking at a picture of a new crankshaft, the bearing surfases of EACH main is twice that of the rods.. and it doesn't knock or have any crazy end play either...

 

[Gale Hawkins]

No, as I only pulled the driveshaft and bottom engine cover off.. The number 1 rod bearing had oil between it and the crank, and there was oil dripping off the camshaft.. so I rolled both rod bearing sets in and torqued the rods down... to see the crank I would have had to completely disassemble the front half of the tractor, and pull the crank out the back... Looking at a picture of a new crankshaft, the bearing surfases of EACH main is twice that of the rods.. and it doesn't knock or have any crazy end play either...

I do not know that tractor but on ours when you pull the oil pan off you can see the rod and main caps and remove them to inspect the lower half bearing and crank surfaces.

Best of success. I have heard of engines being ran out of oil and being refilled and running a long time afterwards. Keep us updated.

It is good to know there was some oil dripping.

 

[Keydet88]

The TY290 is an odd duck..

Has 2 circular main bearings, front and rear, the center is split like the rod bearings, but mount in carriers that mount in a journal in the web of the block.. the only way to get to the mains is a complete tear down, pulling the crank out the rear ..

I've been told it's similar to old Yanmars from the 70's...

I couldn't feel any movement when prying gently with a screwdriver, and once that one rod was loose, it turned freely. also, I could not feel any ridges on the seized rod journal on the crank with my little fingernail.. no tight spots... at least as I could tell with the decompression lever engaged...

it runs smooth, no knocks, no smoke to speak of .. but the sending unit is bad, and pegs the oil pressure gauge...

Oil is still clean on teh dipstick, and a bit over full (about a 1/4-3/8 of an inch...)

 

[Gale Hawkins]

Sounds like your engine may be just fine. If it was mine I would have to get some Archoil AR9100 in the crankcase but that is just my addiction talking.

 

[quicksandfarmer]

Sounds like you did a good job.