Super C Restore

[joewilshire]

I am in the midst of restoring a 1951 Farmall Super C. I will be having a few questions now and in the future if anyone can help.

So, here I go with the first round of inquiries.

1. I replaced the felt washers and oil seals on the axle housing caps. Before I put them back on the tractor, should I clean the grease off the bearings? I assume the grease got there from the old, worn out oil seals.

2. Does the steering housing get any type of lubrication?

That's all for now.

Thanks in advance for all your help.

Joe

 

[flusher]

I am in the midst of restoring a 1951 Farmall Super C. I will be having a few questions now and in the future if anyone can help.

So, here I go with the first round of inquiries.

1. I replaced the felt washers and oil seals on the axle housing caps. Before I put them back on the tractor, should I clean the grease off the bearings? I assume the grease got there from the old, worn out oil seals.

2. Does the steering housing get any type of lubrication?

That's all for now.

Thanks in advance for all your help.

Joe

You should clean and repack the wheel bearings. I just did this for the front wheel bearings in 1951 Minneapolis Moline BF tractor that I'm restoring. Used the black lithium grease from Tractor Supply. Clean the bearings in diesel fuel and then let them air dry on a paper towel. Don't blast the bearings with shop air. You can get an inexpensive bearing repacking tool from Harbor Freight

- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

Steering gear gets SAE-90 gear oil per the manual for my 1951 Farmall Super A.

 

[joewilshire]

Thanks, Flusher. Bearings are greased, installed and caps put back on.

Re-installed hubs, wheels and tires.

Darn near severed my right ring finger putting on the heavy weights: it got stuck beween the axle and weight. Luckily my soon to be son-in-law heard me calling (screaming). The finger and I both survived, a little swelling... nothing much.

Thanks again for your help. I'm sure I will have lots more questions.

Joe

 

[BobG_in_VA]

I am in the midst of restoring a 1951 Farmall Super C. I will be having a few questions now and in the future if anyone can help.

So, here I go with the first round of inquiries.

1. I replaced the felt washers and oil seals on the axle housing caps. Before I put them back on the tractor, should I clean the grease off the bearings? I assume the grease got there from the old, worn out oil seals.

2. Does the steering housing get any type of lubrication?

That's all for now.

Thanks in advance for all your help.

Joe

The end caps on the axle housings should have grease zerks..that's how grease gets there...yes repack the bearings but look for broken off zerks. Should be found at 12 o'clock on top of the axle end caps. Steering housing uses 90W gear oil. you need to take off the radiator shroud...you will see a filler cap on the right side (if I remember correctly) inside the shroud. Usually the 90W will leak out thru the bolster as there are parts that wear in there. I use a lot of grease (use a good grease gun to get it in there) before I fill it with 90W. Tends to be better than 90W alone. BobG in VA

 

[joewilshire]

Thanks, Bob G.

The grease zerks were intack and I pumped them up full.

I will remember the idea about the front steering when I get to it. At the moment, I have removed the seat and tool box and will be taking them to work and sand blasting before primer and paint.

I may get to the front next.

Thanks again.

Joe

 

[joewilshire]

Seat and tool box primed and painted.

Next issue.

The transmission seems to be stuck in 4th gear. This happened a few times in the past but I can't seem to get it out of 4th gear now. Is there something more simple than removing the cover? I really don't want to do that if at all possible. Some of the bolt heads are so badly rusted I can't get a socket on them.

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks again.

Joe

 

[BobG_in_VA]

Seat and tool box primed and painted.

Next issue.

The transmission seems to be stuck in 4th gear. This happened a few times in the past but I can't seem to get it out of 4th gear now. Is there something more simple than removing the cover? I really don't want to do that if at all possible. Some of the bolt heads are so badly rusted I can't get a socket on them.

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks again.

Joe

You might be able to "rock" the tractor back and forth with the rear wheels (takes 2 to do this) while the 3rd person trys to kick it out of gear. Otherwise you need to take off the trans cover. By the way have you drained the trans yet?? has it been cold there?? You might have a bunch of ice in the bottom of that transmission, ....It may have something to do with it as well (probably not, but just hoping..). Really, if the bolts are rusted away, it has been absorbing moisure thru the bolt holes for years. I bet you have a gallon or more of ice/water in the bottom of that trans. BobG in VA PS: 5 gallons of 90W to refill.

 

[flusher]

Seat and tool box primed and painted.

Next issue.

The transmission seems to be stuck in 4th gear. This happened a few times in the past but I can't seem to get it out of 4th gear now. Is there something more simple than removing the cover? I really don't want to do that if at all possible. Some of the bolt heads are so badly rusted I can't get a socket on them.

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks again.

Joe

Welcome to the club. The tranny on my 1951 Farmall Super A won't shift into 1st. Will be pulling the top cover off later this year.

Right now I'm focused on getting my 1951 Minneapolis Moline BF restoration finished. I pulled the cover off the transmission a few weeks ago. It's a simple gear tranny 4F/1R, no synchronizers. Here's what the inside looks like.
These are the 3 forks and the rails. The two large forks handle the 1st/3rd and 2nd/4th gears. The small fork handles reverse.



The gears are simple straight cut spur gears except for the reverse gears which are helical.



The short shaft with the ball at the end is the shifter rod that moves the gears on the rails.

My guess is that your tranny is not much more complex. Hope this helps. Good luck.

 

[joewilshire]

The shift lever will allow me to shift into other gears and when I do, while driving the tractor, it seems to bind up and not go anywhere. The engine will stall after I let the clutch out.

I suppose it could be ice as it has been cold here lately and I know there is/was water in there because the previos owner said so. I haven't gotten around to draining it yet.

However, this problem occur a few times before when the weather was warmer.

Still, I really don't want to have to remove the cover.

Darn. Any more ideas.

Thanks again for all you help. I'll let you know if anything works.

Joe

 

[joewilshire]

So I decided what the heck. Started to take off the tranny cover. Some of the bolt heads rusted bad enough that I used a smaller socket and pounded it on with a hammer then used an electric impact wrench to remove them.
Got all of them loose except the bolts under the steering tower and dash.

Then I thought about looking in the stick shift hole...and Viola!

What looked like 3 rails...left rail for reverse gear, middle rail for 1st and 2nd gear, right rail for 3rd and 4th gear. The left and middle rails were lined up with each other but the right one was off center. I took a small pry bar and wiggled it into position of the other 2 and, guess what? Yea...the transmission is now in neutral and A OK!.

From now on I will be sure and shift more easily.

Now it's off to the hardware store to get new bolts and lock washers and then wire wheel the cover before primer and paint, then I will re-install the tool box and seat support and seat. I will do the remaining part of the cover when I get to the tower and dash.

Thanks again for your help guys.

Joe