Studded vs chains

[Tvanharp]

I have rear chains on my L4330 agricultural tires. Most of the chain just sits between the lugs.
Need to plow a 1/2 mile driveway with steep grades so traction is critical.
I'm looking at screw in studs for next winter. Was looking at the maxigrip studs http://www.maxigripstore.com/categories/Tractor-Tire-Studs/.
any thoughts/experiences?

 

[rockshaft]

That link is broken for me.

I've installed studs in knobby tires before and they worked wonders for icy conditions. I was surprised I didn't have any trouble losing any either. I've had the same experience with chains- if you have a deep lug they can be almost useless.

 

[Reg]

I have rear chains on my L4330 agricultural tires. Most of the chain just sits between the lugs.
Need to plow a 1/2 mile driveway with steep grades so traction is critical.
I'm looking at screw in studs for next winter. Was looking at the maxigrip studs www.maxigrip.com/tractor.
any thoughts/experiences?

I went for the dou-grip pattern, see the Peerless chains web site, order through tractiontirechains.com
I can't show it in text, but it is a pattern somewhat like an "H" with an equals sign in place of the cross bar.
US manufacture, free (I should say "included") shipping and very price competitive with Chinese chains imported by the OTHER well known tire chain web supplier.
They actually sent me engineering prints for the two sets that I was considering for two different tire sizes, which helped me decide to get the longer set and figure what to cut out for the smaller tires - replaceable again for the R4s - I switch between R4s and turfs on that tractor.

If your concern is ICE more than SNOW then a cheap solution is sheet metal screws.
They are (relatively) softer, but may last a season or two and probably tear up concrete and blacktop a lot less than tungsten tipped studs or chains.
It would be a cheap way to run a good (enough) trial.
I will probably use sheet metal screws in the front tires next season, the R4s can handle snow well enough, ice can be "problematic" for the front tires though and steering is something I have grown used to (-:

PS The link is broken, but isn't worth fixing.
Their prices are WAY out of line with reality.
Get thee to the hardware store for sheet metal screws (-:

 

[arrow]

I have rear chains on my L4330 agricultural tires. Most of the chain just sits between the lugs.
Need to plow a 1/2 mile driveway with steep grades so traction is critical.
I'm looking at screw in studs for next winter. Was looking at the maxigrip studs www.maxigrip.com/tractor.
any thoughts/experiences?

If you are using side tensioners on your chains, take them off. You won't need any other type of chain. They may look like they are between lugs at the top of the tire but once you relax the fitment chain to tire, the chain , as the tire comes around and down, falls beyond the lugs and is the first thing to make contact with the ground. And yes, the chain will stay on.

 

[David P]

Winter 2011:

Tires (14.9-28) were about 1/2 loaded. Tractor would barely make it up a very gentle slope.

Winter 2012:

Tires fully loaded (beet juice) and set of Trygg studded tire chains installed. I am now able to make it up much, much steeper slopes while pulling a 7' blade with materials.

I found my chains with one seasons wear on them for $400.

 

[crazyal]

If you were going to use sheet metal screws then I would say there's a savings to be had but once you get into the Maxigrip (and others) screws then you start to get into chain money. Looking at the Maxigrip website you're going to be spending several hundred on studs.

Chains are heavy but can easily be removed. Are you OK with leaving the studs in all summer long?

I have a pricier set of chains that have studs welded to the chains. They are 3/8" in diameter and about 1/2" long. When going down the steep hills they really bite into the ice and dig a little up. I'm not sure if studs would do that unless you left them sticking out of the tire some. But then that could be an issue in the summer.

 

[Tvanharp]

Wow! Thanks for all the info!
We have a 1/2 mile dirt/gravel driveway with slopes that a studded 4x4 has trouble with when it gets slick. I have the chains on tight, was thinking to loosen them up that may help. I have the H style chain now but they are smooth and don't bite that good on ice. Was thinking the studs would be nice but yeah the price is up there. Never drive on asphalt or concrete so they should last a good while. I think what I really need is something for the front tires. Perhaps the sheet metal screws would be a good cheap trial.
Also the chains were way to long so I need to cut them down, got all kinds of bungees and ratchet straps holding them on.
Used to live in town so this all a new learning experience. Thanks again for the info.

 

[Tvanharp]

Here is the correct link, sorry about that.
http://www.maxigripstore.com/categories/Tractor-Tire-Studs/

 

[Chilly807]

I've had excellent success with these chains, made by Tellefsdal...

The guys are right about them needing to be loose to work the best, Tellefsdal recommends that you be able to put a clenched fist between the side chains and the tire. Much better traction, less chain and tire wear, and smoother running on hard surfaces.

I think I'd be most concerned with losing screws or studs during the winter and then finding them with my car tires. A few ruined tires quickly adds up to the price of a good set of chains.

Sean

 

[Jay4200]

I have rear chains on my L4330 agricultural tires. Most of the chain just sits between the lugs.
Need to plow a 1/2 mile driveway with steep grades so traction is critical.
I'm looking at screw in studs for next winter. Was looking at the maxigrip studs Tractor Ice Studs - Tractor Tire Studs - Tractor Snow Studs | Maxigripstore.com.
any thoughts/experiences?

Is it dirt or asphalt? If it's dirt, you don't really need the carbide studs - regular ice screws would probably work just as well for less dough. I never put screws in a tractor, but I have put them into a couple of dirtbikes before - I use hex-head zip screws from my local HVAC place. The screws cost about $15/thousand - cheap experiment, if nothing else.

I'd imagine they'd make a big difference on ice - the traction available on a bike is astounding.

JayC