STEINER 415 leaking axle seals

zsqure · Apr 8, 2012

Hello all, I have a 415 Steiner and the rear axle seals are leaking. Is this an easy fix? can it be done without dis assembling the complete axle assembly?

eddieb1965 · Apr 21, 2012

Unfortunately,you must drop the transaxle assembly out the bottom or you cant get the left and right side axle tubes off.It isnt a hard job,just takes a while to remove rear fender assy,gas tank and get the transaxle loose enough to get the axle tubes off.Basicly you must get transaxle loose and then jack up the tractor to get tubes off.The transaxle assy. is basicly held in tractor by the bolts that hold the axle tubes on. Hope this helps,Eddie

zsqure · Apr 21, 2012

Thats just ducky! I have to pull the motor because of a bad coil too. Electrical smelling smoke not a good sign. My 430 has leaking axle tubes also. What a pain.

eddieb1965 · Apr 22, 2012

May be a little more easy on the 430 by not having to remove fuel tank and just because it is a little more open.It is still basicly the same as the 415.I have had a 410,415,430 ,4231,428 UM. I have had a broken axle on the 410 and 4231. 415 and 430 were trouble free.Utilimax only has 350 hrs. so far and I love it. Eddie

zsqure · Oct 17, 2012

Before fixing the leaking axles, I need to figure out why the 30A circuit breaker keeps popping off. I have found that the Grey/white wire from the ignition switch gets very hot. I traced it to the b+ side of the voltage rectifier. (the violet wire B+ was discolored from heat at the engine plug). After disconnecting the plug from the rectifier (I think that is what it is called) the engine will turn over without tripping the breaker. I have found that the stator is shorted to ground on one lead. I have yet to test the rectifier, is the stator my whole problem? The engine has spark but will not run, won't even fire if given a whiff of starting fluid, it just pumps it out the exhaust.

zsqure · Oct 21, 2012

Began the process of getting to the motor to replace the stator. These nut serts / Pemserts used on these machines really stink! I realize it makes assembly a breeze but get a few years on them, a little corrosion and they just spin with the bolt. The engine has to come out to tear the front end down, I was hoping it could be done in frame.

DoubleDeere · Oct 21, 2012

zsqure, Thank you for taking the time and posting all your experiences with the Steiners that you have been working on. Every little bit helps out some of us either now or in the future when we have to work on ours. I wished I could be of more help to you but I am new to the Steiner family with my 440. My father has owned his 420 for about 17 years now with over 800 hours on it without to many problems with his. Keep up the good work and post as much as you can.

Raw Dodge · Oct 21, 2012

We had a dead Short in the stator of the 420s 25 Kohler command 2 yrs ago.. I was a week away from ending the season so I unplugged the regulator in the fan shroud and put it on the 2amp charger after every use. Pulled the engine and replaced it with a used one, no problems since.

zsqure · Oct 31, 2012

Well, my wallet is $370 lighter. New ignition coils, stator, regulator/rectifier, flywheel and assorted hardware for the Kohler ch23 in the Steiner. I'm not even close to getting to the axles yet. Now to round up the correct size taps and tap drills for the broken off fasteners. Figured I might as well replace everything while it is apart. 10 years old (only 460 hours) and no money spent on it for anything major is OK by me.

Raw Dodge · Nov 1, 2012

Glad you are up and running again... Seems like your parts list seems a bit long... Wondering why you needed coils... The flywheels are known to loose a magnet, and the stators occasionally short out...although it's not likely a running engine needed a flywheel or coil... I guess I'm cheap, I picked up a used CV 20 engine that had water get in a cylinder and rust it. The stator was same pn as the CH 25,I had 10 dollars in the repairs and cost me 2.5-3 hrs of my time. That engine now has well over 4000hrs...still runs like new.. I've done head gaskets once on both sides and a second time in one side after a valve cover leak caused that cylinder to run hot.

zsqure · Nov 12, 2012

Axles and hubs, that's what has me in a knot this morning. Front left axle on the 415 I cannot get the hub to slide off. Is there something special about getting the hub off? Undo the bolt, take out the setscrew pull off with a puller isn't it as simple as that? The goofy thing will not budge. A little heat helped loosen the Loctite on the set screw, what am I missing?

eddieb1965 · Nov 12, 2012

zsqure said:
Axles and hubs, that's what has me in a knot this morning. Front left axle on the 415 I cannot get the hub to slide off. Is there something special about getting the hub off? Undo the bolt, take out the setscrew pull off with a puller isn't it as simple as that? The goofy thing will not budge. A little heat helped loosen the Loctite on the set screw, what am I missing?

Yes it should be as simple as that,mine just slid off but it was a low hr. machine.Make sure there isnt another setscrew in the hole.I doubled mine up on the 415 I had. The only other thing I can think of is the key or keys have worn funny and wont let it just slide off. Eddie

zsqure · Nov 29, 2012

Ok, got tired of squirting PB Blaster on it, got a cut off wheel and cut the doggone thing off. Will order a new hub with axle bearings and seals. Now, does the woodruff key have to come out to get the axle tube to slide off? I don't want to take this little guy out if I do not have to. It is giving me a difficult time also, I am beginning to think one of my self proclaimed mechanics put this together with red loctite. The snow is getting closer and I need to get this done.

zsqure · Dec 22, 2012

All right, back at it again, the boys are out plowing a couple drives this morning with the 430 and I need to continue on this 415. I have removed all fasteners holding the front axle in place. Do I have to remove any hoses to allow it to swing low enough to remove the axle tubes? Don't want to open up more than I need to. Replaced way too many rusted tight parts already.

zsqure · Dec 31, 2012

Ok, got the front axle completed, pulled the motor again to get a better look at the frt set up and glad I did. Missed two bolts that the frt axle assy pivoted down on. Also, there is a large o-ringed plug in the top that I used to refill the frt axle. Throw back together to test run then dive into the rear axle seals.

zsqure · Feb 22, 2013

Finished up the rear axle seal replacement after cutting off the left rear hub as well. Did not drop the axle or take off the axle tube. Used a small chisel and dug out that seal. Had a new one in total time spent was half an hour. Don't know why I did not do that the first time. Now on to the carb and why it will not stay running. It's not getting fuel because it is plugged somewhere.

eddieb1965 · Feb 22, 2013

Also remember ,the seals can go bad because of a bad bearing.It will put more pressure on the top side of the seal as bearings wear.A new seal will help for awhile,but it will wear prematurely if the bearing has excessive play.

zsqure · Feb 28, 2013

This little guy has been sitting for 3 or 4 years. Hoping that is the reason for the seals to be leaking.

Farmer3 · Mar 7, 2015

Hello I have a 2004 Steiner 415 I use for feed pushing the left front axle snapped at the wheel can I just replace just the left side or does the whole assembly need taking apart? Thanks farmer3

zsqure · Mar 8, 2015

Farmer3 said:
Hello I have a 2004 Steiner 415 I use for feed pushing the left front axle snapped at the wheel can I just replace just the left side or does the whole assembly need taking apart? Thanks farmer3

You have to start by pulling off the axle tube on that side. It is an oil bath axle so prepare to soak up some hyd oil. While you r in there get new axle seals and o rings. Bearings are cheap as well. It's time consuming but take your time. tedious but simple.