Steel strength

   / Steel strength #11  
JimMc:

Could you please define mechanical tubing for me.
 
   / Steel strength #12  
Pipe and tubing are formed by taking strips of steel from a coil and progressively rounding up the edges until a tube is formed. Then a welding process welds the edges of the strip together. Depending on several factors, speed of the mill welding equipment, skill of operators, etc, this seam protrudes to varying degrees inside the tube. Incidentally, square tubing starts out the same way, then after the welding process, the sides of the round are progressively rolled in to form a square or rectangle. Keep in mind that the tube mill process runs a continuous strip of coil that is cut to length after it is welded and all this happens at around 300' per minute.

Mechanical tubing, at first glance appears to be a thick walled pipe. On closer inspection, you will notice it has no seam. This is because mechanical tubing is formed very differently. When looking at mechanical tubing specs you will find a much closer tolerance in inside and outside diameters, and no weld seam. In fact, you would be hard pressed to state whether a shorter piece of mechanical tubing was tubing or a part turned and drilled in a lathe. This makes it an ideal receiver for bushings and bearings, if you can find a suitable size. Because of the additional processing, and the fact that more pipe and tubing is sold, mechanical tubing is much more expensive to buy and more difficult to locate off the shelf.
 
   / Steel strength #13  
JimMc:

Thank you for that descriptive definition. I have seen the very material you are talking about, used in marine refrigeration systems. Just know what they called it. And yes I remember it carried a hefty price tag.
 
   / Steel strength #14  
Here's a quick pic of the tube forming process up to welding.
 

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   / Steel strength #15  
Wroughn_harv - Hey, thank you for the information about the knock-in zerks. I have not had good experiences with drilling and tapping tubing; the darn zerks either fall out or I strip the threads trying to seat them REALLY snug. Next time I get close to a TSC I'm going to pick some up.
 
   / Steel strength #16  
Threaded grease zerks can be a pain. We use the 1/4"-28 tapered thread style with a 1/4"-28 pipe tap. Straight thread never seems to tighten up until they strip. Just my opinion, but it may work for you too.
 
   / Steel strength #17  
SIR,
comment on mechanical tubing,
this is also refered to as DOM. (drawn over mandrel) this is why it is
so expensive, but as you said, very well made.
accordionman
william l. brown
 
   / Steel strength #18  
You are correct, and actually we should probably refer to it in that terminology.
 
   / Steel strength #19  
DOM Yep thats the stuff they used for the refrigeration coils pn our crab boat.
 
   / Steel strength #20  
My personal experience with press-in zerks is that they pull out just as easily as they go in. Over the years I have had several pull out on a number of devices. If you have enough material to work with (wall thickness), drilling and tapping generally is more secure. If the wall thickness isn't there, you're screwed either way-you might want to weld on a block or nut for decent engagement. With the thickness of DOM tube you are looking at this probably won't be an issue.

I'm looking at my Ryerson steel catalog now, DOM tube is available in a bunch of different wall thicknesses and diameters, you should be able to find material to make up what you need. Heavy-wall pipe might be cheaper, and you could have a local machine shop bore any ID you wanted pretty cheaply, and drill and tap for the zerk.
 

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