Steel house

   / Steel house #1  

sendero

Gold Member
Joined
Apr 9, 2003
Messages
318
Location
Grayson County TX
Tractor
Kioti DK35
Over the next 2-3 years (I like long planning horizons for big projects /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif) I'm planning to design a permanent structure for my acreage.

Of the three options I've considered 1) conventional home on slab 2) double-wide on slab or 3) industrial steel building on slab, I'm leaning heavily toward 3.

I know lots of folks are doing this (this being putting up one of those cheap industrial steel buildings and finishing out the inside as a home) but I don't have any practical experience or know anyone who has done it.

I understand the basics, but there are a lot of details I'd rather not guess about. I've searched the web quite a bit and see next to nothing about this. Do any of you know of any web resources of info or have any of you done this?
 
   / Steel house #2  
Billy,
I would call Morton, Wick, FBI or whoever the big steel building people are in your area. At least in my area they are building those for people. Even if you are planning on doing much of the work yourself, or acting as your own general contractor, it would be an education for you to talk to them to find out HOW they do it and what special things might be required to build a steel building as a home.

I've looked at Morton and FBI in my area and talked to both of them about building a small equipment barn for me with an apartment inside of it. They both told me they do it all the time and provided me drawings and photos of their projects. I still have not built the building because we decided to take a different path, but you can probably learn a lot by talking to them.
 
   / Steel house #3  
I built a utility building that used steel "bents" (trusses) with 2 x 6 wood girts and purlins. That made it easy to frame in windows, etc for an finished and air conditioned space inside. I have not completed the build out for health reasons but will be back to working on it soon.

The approach is doable but after much research I would recommend that you investigate building with SIPs = Structural Insulated Panel. Fast erection, outstanding thermal performance, and adaptable to almost any architecture.

Check your local library for the book "Building with Structural Insulated Panels (SIPS) by Michael Morley which they should be able to get for you on Inter Library Loan.

Vernon
 
   / Steel house #4  
I've noticed in the past several years (in this area) a lot of houses being built using all-steel framing. Most of the interior is finished with sheetrock, and often with brick veneer exterior. Driving by you can't tell any difference from conventional wood construction. An acquaintance of mine took this approach after his home was destroyed by fire. Never again for him, as this new house is fire-proof!
 
   / Steel house #5  
My wife and I went through that a few years ago and picked your option 2. That was the biggest mistake we have ever made. I second texbaylea's suggestion about the SIPs. We almost went that way, and wish we had. If you prefer, there are companies that will provide you with panels precut for your plans, or even generate the plans from your sketches.
 
   / Steel house #6  
Glenn9643,
In most house fires, a steelframed building's steel studs and floor joists will typically fail sooner than wood. I'd check with your local building code and more importantly, your insurance company on what they say about steel framed buildings. I'm talking about the light weight steel studs used in stick style house building, not the heavy steel structure of a multistory highrise. I know that in some locations in NJ, your insurance would be very expensive if your house was framed with steel, and I know that some volunteer fire departments hate going in a house framed with steel as it will fail sooner and with less warning than a wood framed structure.
 
   / Steel house #7  
All Steel Homes, inc has a nice web site. They make the frame out of structural steel using 6" columns and 12" rafter beams with metal purlins on top. They also use gage metal studs to attach wall material to. There web site is www.allsteelhomes.com. This will give you some insight.
 
   / Steel house #8  
There's an outfit on HWY 160 between 121 and Whitewright that build's steel framed homes. There's another one with a big display on I35 outside of Denton. And of course there's a couple of contractors in that area that advertise pretty heavy about doing steel framed homes.

Mueller sells a product that enables a non weldor to put together a steel framed structure. It consists of connectors and brackets for assembling standard fourteen gauge C purlin materials.

One of the companys that advertises very heavily in Grayson County area uses the metal framing material you can get at the box stores. It can't be thicker than twenty six gauge. They use thin sheet metal to stick build a home. I was not impressed at all with the quality of their work nor the strength of their materials.

The combination of SIP's and steel framing sounds like a winner. However before I invested much into foam I'd want to know about it's exposure to fire ants. On This Old House they were building an SIP addition and the manufacturer's rep mentioned a slight problem with insects finding the foam hospitable. Not as food but a great place to make a home.
 
   / Steel house #9  
If I read your post correctly, you're thinking along the lines of a metal barn or workshop building and finishing the inside off as a home. You can get the kit or have somthing like that built fairly cheaply and quickly from your local supplier.

Just be sure you are comparing apples to apples on prices. Each supplier varries the guage of steel or finished siding or roofing to get the price down. Some kits are engineered for certain wind loads, and others are nothing more than a basic shell.

I wont give names out, but their is a member that I met at the Tejas get together who did exactly what I'm describing.

Some people do this just for the tax advantage of not having their ag land change to residential when buildig a place to live on it. Some have done this in order to have a quick place to live and have barn space for a workshop and storage of equipment all in one building.

The layout is of course up to you and your needs. I like to use a drafting program when considering layouts because I can put in furuniture and fixtures to get a feel of how the space will work when its done.

For example, you can place your toilet in the bathroom and see how much room you have for standing in front of it in the program. I've seen bad layouts that failed to consider this, and it became a problem after the toilet was installed.

I use the Broaderbund home design software. It works well and is easy to learn. There are others to choose from, but I'm not familiar with them.

Be sure you have your layout planned out before building, because its extremely important to have your plumbing in place before pouring your slab.

Once the building is up and sealed in, it'll be an easy process to stick frame your walls and finish it out.

I'm not a fan of using metal framing as a substitute for stick framing. I've heard all the arguments for it and some against. I think stick frameing is still a far superior method in building a home and will remain so for many years to come.

Mobile homes are probably the worse investment you can make. They depreciate the day you buy them. They wear extremely fast compared to a conventional home. A brand new one is almost as expensive as a stick built home and resale absolutely sucks. You can find a deal on used ones, but you better know how to fix it up and do repairs. Most are put together with inferior materials with a focus on light weight and minimal quality.

I personally know several dealers of mobile homes and what they pay for repos and their resale markup is at least double, and in many cases, they triple the price they paid for it. One of the biggest money makers for moble homes is selling to people who cant afford them just so they can repo it and resell it again. Many mobile homes have been repo'd three and four times before getting in too shaby of condition to do it any more.

You're property taxes will increase significantly when you add a moble home. It will be considered a home and taxed accordingly. The sales people at the mobile home lots never tell the buyers about this!!!!!!!!

If you're thinking of building a house, use $50 to $60 a square foot as a general rule of thumb. And this is the total finished home with carpet and cabinets installed ready to move in. Another general rule to remember is you can dry in a home for around $15 a square foot, then take your time finishing it off yourself over time.

Remember to add about $10 a foot to the price when you go to the bank for a loan. If you come in at a wholesale price to build the house and you don't have a track record with them, they will think your cutting too many corners and wont grant the loan. Banks are funny in financing construction projects. They have some numbers that they consider the normal range, and you need to be in line with what they consider normal. You don' thave to spend the extra money, nor do you pay interest on anything you don't actually spend.

Last house I built cost $90,000 for 1,866 of living area plus a two car garage with landscaping included. I had $22,000 still available on the construction loan. I only paid interest on the $90,000 until it sold.

Another option is building a pole barn and finishing out part of it to live in. That's what I did. I have a thread in the projects section called "My Container Barn" wich might be useful if your interested in that route. Price is a little tough to figure because it wasn't originally planned as a place to live, but became a forced issue with my divorce. I know I was well under $20 a foot including appliances and funiture.
 
   / Steel house #10  
The insect problem with SIPs has been addressed 2 ways., treatment of the foam and a fine stainless steel mesh placed on the bottom.

I am designing an addition to our house to be built with SIPs, just need to get more proficient with the CAD software I have to get it all detailed.

Vernon
 

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