starting problem
- Thread starter marler
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pjbci
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Gosh.... I would suspect the starter has a bad brush or two in it. Mine did something similar. It wouldnt crank the truck but worked fine on the test bench. It had 2 bad brushes. Just a thought.
The electric has to flow thru the battery cables to the starter and also to ground. Check your cable connections as bench testing leaves these out of the test. Good ground is real important. Clicking used to mean a solenoid was acting up. IF it turns the motor over and then goes into the clicking mode it is the solenoid you hear . Can you jump another battery to it? If there is a Key in the system the switch could have a bad wire that does not always carry juice. Keep following where the electric flows. You will find the problem. Very rewarding when you do.
Coyote machine
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- 22 SANY SY 50U, '10 Kioti DK 40se/hst KL-401 FEL, loaded tires, KB-2485 bhoe, Tuffline TB160 BB, Woods QA forks, MIE Hydraulic bhoe thumb & ripper tooth, Igland 4001 winch, & GR-20 Log Grapple. Woods BBX72" Brush Mower. Diamondplate aluminum canopy
What tractor, model, number of hours on engine, age of battery, etc. etc. Any other electrical problems recently? Can't really tell you how to test the switch until you tell us more info.
Welcome to TBN
Sorry you're having problems but one has to go through a step by step process to eliminate the cause and find the solution to the problem, otherwise its just jumping to conclusions not based on any findings.
wallace
Veteran Member, Approved Advertiser
Lets see I am going to guess that you have a DKseries tractor.
You can start by cleaning the negative battery cable where it hooks to the frame. Make sure all other cables and terminals are tight and clean. If that doesn't do it, then you will need a larger cold cranking amp battery.
We have came across this issue several times.
If the machine sets for a while it will sometimes do this, once the machine has been running for a while it starts like a champ everytime until it sits for a day or so.
You can start by cleaning the negative battery cable where it hooks to the frame. Make sure all other cables and terminals are tight and clean. If that doesn't do it, then you will need a larger cold cranking amp battery.
We have came across this issue several times.
If the machine sets for a while it will sometimes do this, once the machine has been running for a while it starts like a champ everytime until it sits for a day or so.
Coyote machine
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- 22 SANY SY 50U, '10 Kioti DK 40se/hst KL-401 FEL, loaded tires, KB-2485 bhoe, Tuffline TB160 BB, Woods QA forks, MIE Hydraulic bhoe thumb & ripper tooth, Igland 4001 winch, & GR-20 Log Grapple. Woods BBX72" Brush Mower. Diamondplate aluminum canopy
You could move the cable to ground while someone cranks the engine and see if the voltage drops off in any particular position; or run an ohm meter across the cable while its DISCONNECTED from the battery and see if it shows an open while moving it. Also, look for corrosion of the cable just under the sheath by cutting it back slightly at the battery end. Cables DO go bad and are a tough to find and diagnose because most people don't suspect a cable could cause the problem. Same with the terminal ends.
OK got the tractor cranked this afternoon. I checked the battery while it was running and getting 18.5 volts. Looks like the alternator is doing some damage to the battery causing it to be not strong enough to get it started. Not sure why this didn't show up in the load test.
Can I just get a regulator or do I have to replace the alternator also?
Can I just get a regulator or do I have to replace the alternator also?
Coyote machine
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- 22 SANY SY 50U, '10 Kioti DK 40se/hst KL-401 FEL, loaded tires, KB-2485 bhoe, Tuffline TB160 BB, Woods QA forks, MIE Hydraulic bhoe thumb & ripper tooth, Igland 4001 winch, & GR-20 Log Grapple. Woods BBX72" Brush Mower. Diamondplate aluminum canopy
First you need to be EXTREMELY careful with being around that battery!
18.5 is an open voltage regulator circuit and the battery now has the potential to explode at any time. DO NOT start the tractor again for any reason. Wearing safety glasses and gloves with NO possible ignition sources in the area carefully disconnect the neg battery cable then the positive. Get the battery to a safe place, where if it were to explode it will not injure or do property damage. Trust me- I'm speaking from experience from owning and operating a foreign auto shop.
Once the battery is safely stored, possibly covered by an inverted barrel or HD trash can outside, then you can address the charging system.
I can't say whether your particular voltage regulator is integral to your alternator or replaceable by itself. Either way Wallace or someone else in the know about Kioti parts can probably say what's what on that issue.
If your alternator is rebuildable or able to be exchanged for a re-manufactured unit is also not known by me- but exists as a consideration.
Either way, when all is said and done the 18.5 V's is enough to have done possible damage to other parts of your electrical system. Check your fuse box for any blown fuses and all wires for signs of arching or burnt or melted jacketing.
Be very careful and have baking soda and a hose nearby and someone else nearby, out of harms way, in case things go wrong. You do NOT want to be trying to deal with the aftermath of an exploded battery if a worst case scenario comes to pass. Better prepared than oblivious, I always say!:thumbsup:
Good luck- post back results.