Starting issues (no power) on 1974 John Deere 110

[dwoolley]

I just bought my first tractor. There's no power when I turn the key. PTO is disengaged and brake is locked in. I know the ignition switch is good because the owner I just bought it from said it was brand new and I tested it. I've tested the battery and its showing about a 12.6. Since this is my first tractor I was surprised to see only green and black battery cables. I'm guessing the black is negative and the green is positive. Can someone confirm that for me? Also, how would I go about testing if the circuit breaker is good? Any help is much appreciated.

Update: I found a service manual online, but it might not be for my model because the location of what I believe to be the PTO switch isn't where the manual says it should be. Can someone confirm this is the PTO switch?

 

[RPW]

You need to get the proper manual and a schematic for your machine. Then get a multimeter to perform the necessary tasks.

 

[radios1]

this is the wiring diagram. https://i.pinimg.com/originals/11/41/73/114173e6e92940549cce25a44de87097.png

 

[keljan11]

I have a Massey Ferguson tractor about the same year as yours. I had a similar issue, but mine was I kept blowing the ignition fuse. I used one of those old power testers (with the grounding wire and bulb) to track the power to the connections. I'd check power to and out of the ammeter as I had a burnt out one on a pickup once (no power to the starter because it went through the ammeter first).

Good luck, electrical issues are no fun imho.

 

[Ivan49]

Look just behind the battery there is a wire that has a fuseable link in it. It looks like a piece of shrink wrap over a wire and is a small wire. Idon't remember the color but I think it was a black wire. If it has one replace that and try it

 

[dwoolley]

I looked for that fuseable link but I do not think it has that. I retested the continuity of my pto neutral start safety switch. I was getting around a .4 reading which I believe is a fail. So I have ordered that part from JD. Hopefully that is what my issue is. I am skeptical because I tried jumping it with some needle nose pliers and nothing happened.

 

[radios1]

I looked for that fuseable link but I do not think it has that. I retested the continuity of my pto neutral start safety switch. I was getting around a .4 reading which I believe is a fail. So I have ordered that part from JD. Hopefully that is what my issue is. I am skeptical because I tried jumping it with some needle nose pliers and nothing happened.

you need to check the transmission neutral start switch too!. that may be you problem, as you jumped the pto switch, and still had the problem. it could be the solenoid or the starter too, have you tried jumping from the battery+ to the starter with jumper cables?.

 

[dwoolley]

I have already replaced the transmission neutral switch and jumped from the +battery to the solenoid. The jump worked and got the starter going. I have also replaced the ignition switch. So my thought was since the ignition switch and the transmission neutral switch have been replaced and the solenoid jump worked I thought it would have to be the pto neutral switch. If not, the pto neutral switch was bad anyways. Maybe it is the old wiring from the ignition switch through the transmission neutral and pto neutral switches?

Update: I wanted to also say that I'm getting 12V at the coil, all along the red wire (ammeter, circuit breaker and solenoid), and at the ignition switch. I haven't tested 12V along the green wire from the ignition switch to the rectifier regulator because I'm waiting on a new regulator. I found that it was completely burnt out. I had to snip the wires to the regulator because the wiring harness was melted to the regulator. I don't think that would make it so that I won't have any power though. So from the the wiring diagram I'm using the only possible wire that would keep the tractor from getting power would be along the purple wire which has the pto neutral start and transmission neutral start switches.

 

[Fuddy1952]

I would jumper from starter solenoid purple to ignition S (purple/yellow) , see it it cranks over. That way you're bypassing neutral safety AND pto switches. Both may be bad.
It's a very simple circuit.

 

[Ivan49]

I have already replaced the transmission neutral switch and jumped from the +battery to the solenoid. The jump worked and got the starter going. I have also replaced the ignition switch. So my thought was since the ignition switch and the transmission neutral switch have been replaced and the solenoid jump worked I thought it would have to be the pto neutral switch. If not, the pto neutral switch was bad anyways. Maybe it is the old wiring from the ignition switch through the transmission neutral and pto neutral switches?

Update: I wanted to also say that I'm getting 12V at the coil, all along the red wire (ammeter, circuit breaker and solenoid), and at the ignition switch. I haven't tested 12V along the green wire from the ignition switch to the rectifier regulator because I'm waiting on a new regulator. I found that it was completely burnt out. I had to snip the wires to the regulator because the wiring harness was melted to the regulator. I don't think that would make it so that I won't have any power though. So from the the wiring diagram I'm using the only possible wire that would keep the tractor from getting power would be along the purple wire which has the pto neutral start and transmission neutral start switches.

The one we had did the same thing and the last time it did it I took it in and they told me the battery was bad. I told them to change it and I wanted the old battery back which I used on something else with no problems. But the mower came back running so I don't know for sure what they did. I went the same route as you with safety switches and all. Maybe take a 12 volt battery and jump the one in the mower and see if that works. I cannot believe the battery ion mine was bad because I used the old one for a coupe years with no problems