Starting issues, 1997 NH 1715

Cjm005 · Jan 25, 2016

To summarize.. I bought tractor from original owner, and the wiring is a mess. I suppose the previous owner lost the key, because he tucked the ignition switch behind the dash and just hooked up a push button...

Prior to installing, the glow plugs, warning lights and everything else was not working. I installed the new ignition switch ($77) and everything is working again, with exception of starting. The PO disconnected all of the safety switches (clutch, PTO & neutral) so I'm trying to figure out which ones are "correctly" disconnected - the PTO safety switch is just disconnected and looped. For some reason I can't (yet) find the wires that connect to the clutch switch - the switch itself is destroyed beyond recognition.. I have wiring harness, just thought I would post up in case anyone has been through the same problem.

kirkawilson · Jan 31, 2016

One likely scenario is that PO could not successfully troubleshoot his compound starting problems and installed the push button to completely bypass the wiring harness for starting, which was the final fix I did for my 1998 NH1920 starting problems. Even if you get the safety switches and associated wiring working, the voltage/current drop in the wiring itself, plus all connection loses, tends to drop the voltage/current from the ignition switch below minimum required to engage the starter solenoid. You can pull your hair out trying to troubleshoot the wiring (I'm not bald yet), so if you can dependably start the tractor from the push button, I would keep it. CAUTION! The push button generally bypasses all safety switches and ignition switch, thus will turn the engine over any time it's engaged (pushed). But, the tractor won't start until the fuel solenoid is opened with the ignition switch.

CDennyRun · Jan 31, 2016

I would bring it back to factory spec wiring, and find out what was making the voltage drop, then fix it. Without the safety switches in the NC position depressed, you have no preheat. If you don't care to bring it back to factory wiring, have fun cranking and cranking until she starts. It's not good on the engine, not good on your starter, and you'll likely be replacing batteries and starters more than you should. It's just a bad deal. Every time you start your tractor in the cold like this, you're taking years of it's life.

Sounds like to original owner threw in the towel, and opted to jimmy rig. I wonder what else he didn't maintain...

If you have everything you need to fix it right, fix it right. I imagine you would want to be proud of your tractor, and yourself!

Chris

Cjm005 · Jan 31, 2016

Update, I spent a couple hours this weekend going through the wiring. I replaced fusible link between starter and ignition switch, re-loomed all of the wires. I had to bypass all the safety switches - but the glow plug circuit working and starts fine. Only thing left to do is rig up some LED work lights to mount on roll bar.

CDennyRun · Jan 31, 2016

How do you preheat your plugs? I have to turn my ignition in the forward position for about 15 seconds to preheat when it's 30-ish degrees, prior to turning the engine over.

Chris

Cjm005 · Feb 1, 2016

The stock ignition key on mine has a separate starting circuit - hold key to left. Usually mine takes about 20-25 seconds.

CDennyRun · Feb 1, 2016

Oh, that's cool. They changed quite a bit from 94 to 97. Sounds like you have a pretty good handle on it!

Chris

kirkawilson · Feb 2, 2016

I powered my ROPS-mounted LED lights from the tail light circuit by tapping each side of tail light wiring and running new 12V wiring up the ROPS to the new LED's. You can switch from the dash light switch...works fine. The LED's draw very little current.