Starting an inactive well pump

[KTurner]

I'm trying to get a shallow well working again. It probably hasn't been used in 10-15 years. I just took the cover off the well house and there's nothing obviously broken/leaking. Is there anything I should do before applying power? This is going to be used for watering a garden.

Keith

 

[Mousefield]

Not sure what you are asking. You imply there is a pump at the well, what type? If it has not been used for 10-15 years are you in an area that freezes? It sounds to me like you need to turn the power on and see what happens. That will determine if it is working and if not then you need to ask more questions. Would help if you posted a picture or gave more details.

 

[RadarTech]

I second the apply power thought--- BUT

Do this--
Check the power out first.. Check the voltage-- is it 220 or 110? suspect 220.
Check the pressure switch if there is one.
Look for any wires varmint evidence.
Pull any power disconnect to the house.. If there is not one-- ADD one..
~$8 at lowes..

Check to see if it is a self priming pump-- It SHOULD be, but I would not assume..
depending how shallow-- I might pull the pump up and check for rust clogs at the foot..

and to be totally safe DON'T apply power alone!
Hope this helps...


J

 

[KTurner]

There was a nameplate that said Gould, but I didn't get the model number (I'll check for it later). It looks similar to the one in the attached picture, with a tank about the same size/proportion. The "well house" is about 3ftx3ftx3ft room with the roof a few inches above ground. I'm in VA and we do freeze, but nothing major. I did not see any signs of burst pipes.

For electricity, there's two electrical boxes in the well house. One contains two switches, the other two standard 120v outlets. It looks like one switch controls the two outlets and two light bulb sockets. A fresh light bulb showed that electrical is working. I am assuming that the second switch, which was turned off, controls power to the pump as the wiring going to the pump originates from this wiring box. All of the wiring is in metal conduit, which all looked in good shape.

I guess I'm mainly asking if there's any "if you don't do ____, you will break something" (like, if you don't add oil to the gas of your 2stroke engine, you will break the engine).

thanks
Keith

 

[Kays Supply]

The pipe plug on the top of the tee above the pump is to prime it. See if you can get to the end of the motor and some have a screw slot in the end of the armature. Try and turn it. It might be locked up. If there is a valve in the pump house turn it almost off when you prime it and start the pump. If it spins and starts to pump you will hear it change pitch. If you just turn it on with the valve wide open you may loose prime. It is easier to start it and open the valve slow as it builds pressure. If it spins but doesn't pump don't let it run very long, to save the shaft seal. One possible effect from sitting so long would be the seal frozen and you will know it if water comes out between the pump head and motor. They aren't very expensive and not a big deal if you are handy with tools. Getting the pump impeller off is the hardest part. They actually make tools for that.

 

[TheGoose]

Most likely the pump/motor is seized up from not being used. Try to prime the pump by adding water into a top plug until it fills up the pump/pipes. Replace the plug and try to turn it on....if it buzzes or hums turn it off immediately. Try to take a pair of channel locks or pliers and manuall turn the shaft. If you can free it up try turning it on again.

Worst thing that you can do is run the pump without water, which will burn out the shaft seal. Most likely the bearings are dried out and the motor will be shot. You may need to replace the motor or take the pump apart and get everything freely working.

Good luck.

 

[herd]

If it's a shallow well and a shallow well pump, I would just cut it loose and replace it. A good Myers shallow well pump is not expensive and very reliable. I am on 6 yrs now with having done the same thing. My orig investment to replace the pump was under $200 and the value of my piece of mind to know that water pumps when I need it, is a bit above that figure.

Those pumps are easy to install. I did go with a foot valve, but a check valve will work just as well.

 

[Mousefield]

Now that I have seen a picture of the pump you have it is the same as what I take down to the creek every spring for our yard and pond water. It will need to be primed as an earlier post mentioned. They do not cost that much and given 10-15 years not used plus the time before that, I would replace it if you have problems with it. I have to take my pump out the creek (sits on the bank about 2 ft above the creek) and bring it into my shop or else it will freeze. Freezing would very likely crack it if it was not drained. That is why I asked in my first post if you are in an area that freezes.

 

[alchemysa]

Turn it on and off for a second to see if it runs.

If it doesnt run then try and turn it by hand. The rear end of the motor might have a screw driver slot that will allow you to try and turn the armature shaft by hand. Or you might be able to get a pair of multigrips onto it.

If you can't turn it by hand then its probably seized with dry rust. If you are a bit handy you can take it apart, clean it, grease it and put in a new seal if needed. Most pumps and motors are pretty simple.

Prime it with water in the top before you turn anything.

 

[Egon]

Bump the pump to see if it turns. If it doesn't remove and decide on repair or replacement.

If it does turn prime the pump it and see if it will pick up suction. If it doesn't pull up the suction line and inspect for leaks and proper working of the foot valve. Fill the suction line with water and reattach. Try it again. If it doesn't pick up suction make some blue air and leave it alone till the next day when you try it again. If that effort fails pull pump and decide on repair or replacement.