Start Up Procedure for MF35? Been Sitting 4yrs

[Yosh1898]

Hey all,

I am purchasing a building with a yellow Massey Ferguson 35 Utility in it. I have only been in the building twice and didn't pay much attention to the tractor because my focus was on the building. Anyway, I asked the seller if he would include the tractor in the sale for an additional $1000 and he said yes.

It hasn't been started for about 4 years and I'd like to know what to do prior to starting it. Any ideas?

There is plenty of info about the MF35 out there but I'd like more info on the Utility model. Will it have power steering? Will it have a two stage clutch? Will it have a differential lock? Etc...

The tractor has a loader, hydro pump mounted on the front of tractor, 3 PT hitch, and a gas motor.

Thank You,
Yosh1898

 

[BobG_in_VA]

Just a couple of quick things: Check to see if the fuel shut off (at the tank) was on or off (hopefully they turned it off when they parked it)...Don't turn it on yet...Battery, you will need a new one...not sure if your 35 is 6 or twelve volt, but you will need a good battery. Oil...drain the crank case and refill with good oil (suggest 10w-30 dino to start). Radiator, check to see if any anti-freeze is in the rad. suggest you drain it and refill with 50-50 mixture. Trans: Check to see if both the hi-lo and gear shift lever go into each gear easily (with the clutch depressed)...with leads to the clutch,...does it have good "feel" when you depress it...if the unit has a tach, you most likely have a two stage clutch (you can feel the difference about 1/3 of the way down when you step on it)...Now, back to the gas...if the fuel tank shut off has been left open, close it...now take a 7/16" open end wrench (as well as I remember) and disconnect the line at the carb. (before you do this drain the carb...small bolt head at the bottum of the carb). After disconnecting the fuel line at the carb (and assuming there is gas in the tank), turn on the shut off valve and see if you get any fuel thru the line...(I'm thinking you're gonna have to "clean" the tank anyway)...hopfully you will get some gas to come out of the line...next take the brass connector loose on the carb, this has a brass screen inside that you want to check of "junk"...by the way you will probably have to redo the carb anyhow...enough for now, once you get good fuel flow, a good battery, good oil, and anti-freeze, put it back together and you can try and turn it over. This ain't all, but it'll give you a good start...BobG in VA

 

[flusher]

Pull the plugs, put it in 1st gear and check for a stuck engine by pushing on the rear wheels forward and backward. If the tractor moves, the engine is not stuck. Clean the plugs and do the things BobG recommends.

Good luck.

 

[Yosh1898]

Thanks guys.

I closed on the building last week. Upon further investigation the tractor has probably been sitting for more then 4 yrs. The amount of rust in the gas tank is unbelievable. For obvious reasons there is no "flow" through the fuel line coming from the sediment bowl.

I am disappointed to say that the tractor does not have a PTO or differential lock. On the bright side it does have power steering. I assume that it is not worth the effort and expense to somehow add a PTO?

I have ordered a tune up kit, POR 15 gas tank sealer kit, carb rebuild kit, oil filter, ignition coil, and sediment bowl assembly. The parts should be here next week and hopefully I'll get it running. This is turning into more work then anticipated but I am learning a lot about old tractors.

I will give an update if/when I get it running.

 

[Yosh1898]

I got the tractor running a couple days ago. At first I was having trouble getting spark but once I replaced the points it came to life. It still doesn't run well but it was good enough to drive it on a trailer and haul it home.

This afternoon I attempted to change the trans/hydraulic/diff fluid but ran into a road block. I pulled both plugs and drained the fluid (fluid was brown). I then removed the left side round cover to access the filter. Upon opening this cover I discovered about 2" of sludge sitting in the bottom of the case. I removed as much as I could in handfuls. I decided I should take off the cover on the other side and the cover over the PTO (blank plate cover because this tractor has no PTO) to remove more of the sludge. When I removed the PTO cover approximately 2 gallons of oil came out the 3" hole in a matter of seconds. Everything I have read says that the trans/hydro and diff are all the same compartment (and I cannot find a fill hole for the diff) but obviously the diff is separate on my tractor or the fluid would have drained when I opened the drain plugs. OR there is an oil passage between the two compartments and it is plugged with sludge.

Can anyone tell me if its truly two separate compartments or if I have a plugged passage???

As a side note, the tractor runs but I have to pull the choke lever every few seconds to keep it running. I adjusted the main jet in both directions with no success. Could it be timing or the angle of the points???

Help on either of these issues would be greatly appreciated!

 

[CTWright]

If it's been sitting the carb could be gummed up. If your choking it it's usually not getting enough gas. Check float the float to make sure the needle vale there is ok. You may have to disassemble it and soak it. Auto parts store sell a 1 gallon soaker solution for carbs. I use one on old lawn mower carbs and such.

 

[Yosh1898]

I rebuilt the carb prior to starting it.

 

[bucktaker]

Dont worry about the diff it is all the same oil, flush with diesel if you want to but for now I would refill it the ports next to the shifter are the fill.

Carb still needs work if you need to choke it.

MF35 utilities are often high hour work horses....got any pics?

 

[Agvg]

Dot think there are so much work to add pto, used parts is easly found.

 

[Yosh1898]

The hour meter still works and reads 1132.7 I don't know if its been replaced but based on the condition of the tractor I think it could be original.

Here are some pics