Stalled NX6010 with PTO load, will not restart

[Overtaxed]

Well, this is new. Was bush hogging and got in too deep and couldn't get the PTO disengaged or the deck up fast enough and stalled the tractor from about 2K RPMs. No bad noises on the way down, just an overload condition. I've had this happen a 2-3 times in the past, no problem. But this time, set everything back, neutral, park brake, etc but no start. The solenoid clicks but it doesn't turn over. Sounds exactly like a dead battery, except I was running it for a few hours before this happened and the battery, unless I have an alternator problem, isn't dead. Was thinking I may have hydrolocked the engine, too much fuel in the cylinders? I guess it could be a coincidence and the battery is just dead, but, before I try to jump it and put even more power into an engine that may be hydrolocked, I figured I'd ask! Any ideas?

 

[Oldoak]

Did you disengage the P.T.O. switch? The next thing I would do is check for a blown fuse. I really doubt you hydro-locked the engine with raw fuel that fast.

If you had an alternator problem not charging the battery, I think you would have gotten some kind of warning on the dash before this.

 

[Overtaxed]

Yeah, did disengage the PTO, on this tractor, it won't even "try" (click) to start with the PTO engaged, so I think I have all the electrical stuff good (brake has to be on, in neutral and PTO disengaged to start this machine). A fuse I could believe, I'll take a look and see if I blew something, and I get a voltmeter on it and see where I stand, I suppose it could just be a coincidence and the real problem here is in the electrical system, not the engine.

 

[Overtaxed]

Just wanted to update, it was the battery. I went out after giving it a few hours to cool down (and hopefully the the fuel leak down if it was a hydrolock) and it cranked over, real slow, one time when I gave it another try. As soon as it cranked and I knew I didn't have a starter or physical engine problem, I got out the jumpers (has ANYONE ever stalled a tractor in a good place for a jump? Ever? Yeah, way back in the woods, great time getting the truck back there to jump it, of course). Cranked over and started right up.

Opened the hood and took a look to see if I broke a belt, nope, alternator is spinning and looks fine, so I guess the next thing I need to figure out, why did the battery go flat, especially since I was actively using it right before it stalled. I either have a charging system issue or a really bad battery. Are there any fuses between the alternator and the battery that need checking or is a direct shot (unfused)?

Thanks for the help, just wanted to update with the solution (and the next problem to troubleshoot).

 

[ritcheyvs]

I'd check (with a meter) the battery and cables. Don't know about the new xx10 models but an old-style Diesel runs fine, even with the battery completely removed. But don't try that because it can damage the alternator.

 

[thepumpguysc]

FOR SURE check the battery w/ a meter.. should be charging at 13-14v.

 

[Avondale]

Kioti has had many previous examples of bad battery cable connections, not just the ground wire to frame connection but also a glaze forming at the post clamps. Please keep us updated on the solution you find. Thanks.

 

[Overtaxed]

FOR SURE check the battery w/ a meter.. should be charging at 13-14v.

Thanks, this was going to be my next question. So, with the engine running, I should see 13-14 at the battery posts?

Anyone know if there are any fuses to check between the alternator and the battery? Seems like that probably should be a fused connection, if that wire broke through to ground, while not as bad as a battery going into a dead short, something bad certainly could happen, but I've never heard of a fuse on an alternator or the charging line coming out of it.

 

[JimR]

Thanks, this was going to be my next question. So, with the engine running, I should see 13-14 at the battery posts?

Anyone know if there are any fuses to check between the alternator and the battery? Seems like that probably should be a fused connection, if that wire broke through to ground, while not as bad as a battery going into a dead short, something bad certainly could happen, but I've never heard of a fuse on an alternator or the charging line coming out of it.

Normally, alternators are not fused on any vehicle. The alternator has a direct connection to the battery. Clean your battery connections and do a voltage check with the tractor off and with it running. The voltage should be higher with the tractor running. Once the battery is fully charged it should read between 13.2 - 14.2 volts. The voltage will be lower when the tractor is off. A discharged battery will not show full voltage when charging. You will see it going up if you watch the voltmeter as it charges.

 

[Overtaxed]

OK, problem's been narrowed down, the alternator is good, it's showing mid 14's on the voltage, the power is just not making it to the battery. I'm looked at both ends, the connections look decent (the one on the alternator looks like it got a little too hot, it's kind of ugly and doesn't inspire confidence). However, the wire on both ends goes into/comes out of a big wiring trunk line. I'm thinking of just rolling down to the store and getting a whole new piece of wire and doing a direct shot from the alternator to the battery and just capping off the old line. Anyone see a problem with that? Seems reasonable to me, but what do I know. Is there anything fed directly off the line that would be impacted by jumping it out (if so, should I just jump in a new wire and leave that one in place). Usually everything pulls from the battery, so I wouldn't think so, but, who the heck knows anymore!