Staining new Cedar fencing

[Garandman]

We have ordered about 150 feet of Red Cedar fencing, 42 to 72 high.

We want to stain it before installation. Have no idea what to use. Suggestions?

 

[YLee Kioti]

The feller that install our cedar fence recommended to allow the wood to dry for a few weeks.

Then I used Ready Seal | Wood Stain & Sealer | Desk Stain & Sealer.

It is drip goof proof product, and cedar will drink up any product you use! So be ready to use liberally and be ready to apply two coats. The first coat will soak it up and the second coat will provide max coverage and make fence look really nice. The four side I did was just under 400 feet. and did both sides of fence twice. used about 17 gallons.

Used a 2 gallon sprayer. If I had to do over I'd used the airless spray gun. But it was so freaky hot that summer I took the fastest least hassle method. Turned a lot of heads and had several stop and ask about the fence.

It's not cheap but HD did help me. They sold me the individual gallons at the same price as a five gallon container.

Hope this helps.

Regards...

 

[oosik]

I've built an ALL cedar house here on the property - PanAbode out of Redmond, WA. On the outside I've used Behr, polyurethane, Danish oil stain and a semi-translucent oil stain by In-Wood.

The In-Wood product was far and away the very best on my cedar house. I purchase the stuff from the United Paint store in Spokane. It does not "yellow" like the Behr product did - it does not produce large bubbles and blisters like the polyurethane did, and it lasts a lot longer than the Danish Oil stain. I've reapplied the In-Wood product every 12 to 14 years and the cedar looks great.

 

[PILOON]

Great idea to 'pre stain' as when wood shrinks you wont have ugly unstained areas.
And to note cedar has the highest shrinkage rates of most woods.

 

[2LaneCruzer]

I used to paint houses when I was in college; we once did a Cedar fence, but instead of staining it, we bleached it! Ended up looking weathered and several years old.

 

[RalphVa]

If it was my fence, I wouldn't put anything on it. Cedar does not need the protection.

Keep kicking ourselves for putting stain on our new treated wood deck. Should have left it bare. Treated wood does not need staining. The "stain" that our handyman, who replaced the boards, recommended is more like a "paint". Really really regret putting it on. Some of the boards need replacing already. Contemplating replacing them and leaving them bare. Already have had to unscrew all the screws and to replace about half that were corroded by the awful treatment they put on the wood now. Did not recoat those screws.

Ralph

 

[Garandman]

I've built an ALL cedar house here on the property - PanAbode out of Redmond, WA. On the outside I've used Behr, polyurethane, Danish oil stain and a semi-translucent oil stain by In-Wood.

The In-Wood product was far and away the very best on my cedar house. I purchase the stuff from the United Paint store in Spokane. It does not "yellow" like the Behr product did - it does not produce large bubbles and blisters like the polyurethane did, and it lasts a lot longer than the Danish Oil stain. I've reapplied the In-Wood product every 12 to 14 years and the cedar looks great.

This sounds great!