splines striped on input shaft of hydrostat

Binder pilot 53 · Nov 24, 2012

I have a mid 80's B8200 in my shop that belongs to an old friend of mine that has the splines on the input shaft of the hydrostat and the coupler striped out. I am going to split the tractor tomorrow to see if there is any other damage. How big a job is it to replace to input shaft of the hyro? The dealer wants to replace the entire hydro and I see there point as it is a very high hour tractor but has been very well cared for. They want $4700.00 to fix it.

brain55 · Nov 24, 2012

I'd say it is no big deal, but I have had a few apart in the last 25 years. To me it is worth the expense. It is my opinion that the hydrostat units in that era are a bit stouter than the current series. Of course I have no way to quantify that other than my opinion and personal experience. I have no problem replacing parts as needed rather than replacing the whole unit.

Brian

pedalstomper78 · Nov 24, 2012

The thing that you have to figure out is why the splines stripped. Unfortunately, something had to cause it. I'm sure that is why the dealer is quoting with the whole pump. They want to make sure that they quote you for the whole job rather than getting your tractor split and making that phone call and saying "Um...yeah....we need an extra $3,000". I'm giving some Kudos to the dealer here as they probably just want to make sure that things are right.

brain55 · Nov 24, 2012

The splines on the coupler strip as a matter of wear and tear. It may or my not cause excessive damage to the splines on the input of the hydrostat. The splines on the u-joint for the 4wd shaft will fail over time too.

smilingreen · Nov 24, 2012

Bad ju-ju beans....

Binder pilot 53 · Nov 24, 2012

brain55 said:
The splines on the coupler strip as a matter of wear and tear. It may or my not cause excessive damage to the splines on the input of the hydrostat. The splines on the u-joint for the 4wd shaft will fail over time too.

Yes I agree. I think the splines wore out due to the very high hours on this tractor and the dealer is just trying to make sure he not leaving anything to chance, and being up front with the quote. I think before I tear it down I will put a bolt in the hole that the roll pin goes in and make sure it operates OK first. Although I suspect wont last to long. Was just wondering if the input shaft is available and how big a job it is to put in. I've rebuilt a lot of automatic car transmissions so I'm not afraid to jump in there. Also I feel the same about fixing something before replacing it. Thanks for the fast replies.

brain55 · Nov 24, 2012

I would check the splines on the clutch disc end of the shaft also while I had it apart. I would likely do the clutch while I had it split too.

Last I checked the input shaft for the hydrostat was available. When I have them apart I also lap or replace the thrust plates and lap the piston shoes on the rotating groups.

Binder pilot 53 · Dec 9, 2012

Thanks for the help brain55. I put a bolt in the hole where the roll pin goes and it worked just fine. Drained all the oil out trough a paint strainer to look for metal particles and found none. Ordered both the clutch shaft and the input shaft for the hydro along with the coupler and all gaskets and seals. Tore it down and replace the parts and it works just fine. Spent a little time getting the neutral just right and now all is well. That hydro is an interesting piece of engineering. Glad I did the job. Parts were around $534.00.