Sources for Stroke Control Blocks?

[Poopdeck Pappy]

I'm looking for some good quality stroke control blocks for a hydraulic cylinder. We used to call them "donuts" back on the farm.

I found these at Tractor Supply, but the inside part that contacts the cylinder shaft is gritty and I'm afraid they will abrade the shaft and eventually cause a seal problem. I'd like to find some that are polished on the inside part that wraps around the cylinder shaft (like the ones we used on the farm years ago).

Stroke Control with Finger Tab, 1-1/8 in. to 1-1/2 in. - Tractor Supply Co.

If anyone knows of a source for better quality blocks, I'd appreciate a name or a link.

 

[Xfaxman]

I made some by cutting thick wall tubing that had the same ID as the OD of the cylinder shaft. I cut them to the length that I needed, then cut them in half, long ways, to go around the shaft. They are held together with a hose clamp at each end. They do not slide on the shaft.



I think you could put tape or closed cell foam rubber under those from TSC, so that they would not slide on the shaft.

 

[Tx Jim]

Poopdeck Pappy
Depth stop doughnuts being rough on the inside shouldn't cause any problem unless cyl rod is pointing straight up. Any other way doughnuts should stay where they were placed on the clevis end of cyl rod. Here's some stops(parts key #22) you can get from JD dealer if you can afford them.
AA33111 Stop ADD 26.40 USD
AA33109 Stop ADD 24.13 USD
AA33110 Stop ADD 24.97 USD
AA33108 Stop ADD 23.30 USD

 

[Xfaxman]

About three and a half years ago, I made this stroke stopper for the Gorilla Grapple, from a piece of 2 7/8" tubing.

Cut it to the exact length needed, then cut it lengthwise on the bandsaw. This one has a piece of rubber around the shaft, to fill the gap to the larger tubing. One hose clamp holds it to the shaft.

 

[Poopdeck Pappy]

Guys, thanks for the ideas and sources. The stroke stoppers I bought from Tractor Supply will probably be ok because they just stay on the clevis end of the cylinders. But I was surprised at how rough the inside surface was, so I thought I'd ask for other sources. I just remember the ones we used on the farm years ago that were as slick as a baby's bottom on the inside. I don't know if that was how they came from the store or if that was from years and years of use every single day. (We used them on pull-type implements to control the depth of the implement.)

Xfaxman, your homemade ones look very sturdy (and cost effective too).

 

[Xfaxman]

Guys, thanks for the ideas and sources. The stroke stoppers I bought from Tractor Supply will probably be ok because they just stay on the clevis end of the cylinders. But I was surprised at how rough the inside surface was, so I thought I'd ask for other sources. I just remember the ones we used on the farm years ago that were as slick as a baby's bottom on the inside. I don't know if that was how they came from the store or if that was from years and years of use every single day. (We used them on pull-type implements to control the depth of the implement.)

Xfaxman, your homemade ones look very sturdy (and cost effective too).

Thanks, I hope some future Lurkers and Newbies can use the idea.

These are a tight fit on the shaft.

 

[CJONE]

Guys, thanks for the ideas and sources. The stroke stoppers I bought from Tractor Supply will probably be ok because they just stay on the clevis end of the cylinders. But I was surprised at how rough the inside surface was, so I thought I'd ask for other sources. I just remember the ones we used on the farm years ago that were as slick as a baby's bottom on the inside. I don't know if that was how they came from the store or if that was from years and years of use every single day. (We used them on pull-type implements to control the depth of the implement.)

Xfaxman, your homemade ones look very sturdy (and cost effective too).

If you are concerned about them rattling around on the rod, [I would be too that why I put them on the inside of the cyl] Just hone the inside with a 3 jaw hone. CJ

 

[DJ54]

If you are concerned about them rattling around on the rod, [I would be too that why I put them on the inside of the cyl] Just hone the inside with a 3 jaw hone. CJ

Yep, or some 400 grit, then follow up with some Crocus cloth, if you can find it. Always fun to ask the young guys at the parts store for that.

 

[RickB]

If you are concerned about them rattling around on the rod, [I would be too that why I put them on the inside of the cyl] Just hone the inside with a 3 jaw hone. CJ

So when they rattle around in there and you can't see or hear them, that's OK?

 

[CJONE]

So when they rattle around in there and you can't see or hear them, that's OK?

I don't know if you are being serious or sarcastic but with hydraulic oil all around them there won't be much rattling. I use and order a bunch of cylinders and that is how they are all done, no rattling, no rod damage and they don't rust abviously. CJ