Some BX2200 questions (or BX1800 - pretty much the same thing...)

[Jay4200]

I got a 600-hour BX2200 this weekend and used it today for the first time. It is very cute - everything is just sooooo teeny - and how I lived this long without a 60" mowing deck is beyond me - BUT, it's REALLY different than my good 'ol L4200GST, so I do have a few questions (some for those familiar with both BXs and the bigger guys):

1) The PO told me that there is a design flaw regarding the fuel sending unit, which apparently leaks if the tank is more than 3/4 full. True or BS? If so, whats the fix?
2) The engine seems to run good, but idles rough (zero throttle) with lots of vibration - its running OK, just shakes a lot. Smooths right out at 1/8-1/4 throttle. Normal?
3) Hydraulics (loader) didn't work at all at idle (zero throttle). Just a little bit of RPMs got things going. Normal? Loader action seems fine otherwise. The tractor was cold at the time, but it was 80+ outside. I think it might have worked at idle later in the day when the tractor was warm, but I'm not sure about that.
4) When I shut off the engine, it stops somewhat abruptly (like 1/2 sec) with a loud clatter. Again, not an engine issue but vibration. I don't like it - kind of unsettling - almost sounds like the engine is loaded when shut down. My 'L' shuts down smoothly and takes a couple of seconds to do it, but I have to pull a manual fuel shutoff lever, so maybe that has something to do with it.
5) It doesn't have a tachometer, which I don't like - any aftermarkets available?
6) Parking brake doesn't have an idiot light. THIS idiot drove 1/4 mile with the parking brake on at full blast in high range (I did notice the tractor seemed slower than normal when moving in reverse - now I know what that means). Hope I didn't warp anything. Anyone rig up an idiot light? I'm thinking switch on little parking pedal/rod linkage.
7) The PTO (mowing deck) seems to engage somewhat abruptly - shakes the deck when the blades fire up. My 'L' brings the PTO up to speed smoothly in a second or two.
8) Should RPMs be dropped before engaging the PTO then RPMs brought back up? I'm sure the manual says no, but with the abruptness of the engagement, I felt it might be a good idea, except for the engine vibration at idle...it IS a shaky little beast.
9) The manual says to start the engine at half-throttle, then crank up from there. The PO never started, ran, or stopped the engine at less that 1/2 throttle, and mostly run WFO. I don't like starting like that - seems to beat on the engine to me. I like to start at idle, then increase to 1/8-1/4 (just to smooth it out) to get things circulating for a half-minute or so, THEN crank it up. Opinions?

I'm sure I'll think of more, but those are the ones I could remember right now. Thanks.

 

[sandyc]

The fuel tank leak was subject of a recall a few years ago. I used to have a 2200. The dealer sent out his mechanic to fix it no charge.

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

I got a 600-hour BX2200 this weekend and used it today for the first time. It is very cute - everything is just sooooo teeny - and how I lived this long without a 60" mowing deck is beyond me - BUT, it's REALLY different than my good 'ol L4200GST, so I do have a few questions (some for those familiar with both BXs and the bigger guys):

1) The PO told me that there is a design flaw regarding the fuel sending unit, which apparently leaks if the tank is more than 3/4 full. True or BS? If so, whats the fix?
Don't know about this leak issue, mine didn't, but fuel gauges not reading accurately is common
) The engine seems to run good, but idles rough (zero throttle) with lots of vibration - its running OK, just shakes a lot. Smooths right out at 1/8-1/4 throttle. Normal? This is common. If you think of it, where the hand throttle is at idle, the lever could be off and it's below the proper set idle. BX1500s are the worst.

3) Hydraulics (loader) didn't work at all at idle (zero throttle). Just a little bit of RPMs got things going. Normal? Loader action seems fine otherwise. The tractor was cold at the time, but it was 80+ outside. I think it might have worked at idle later in the day when the tractor was warm, but I'm not sure about that.Engine running to slow to run hyd pump, yes this is normal

4) When I shut off the engine, it stops somewhat abruptly (like 1/2 sec) with a loud clatter. Again, not an engine issue but vibration. I don't like it - kind of unsettling - almost sounds like the engine is loaded when shut down. My 'L' shuts down smoothly and takes a couple of seconds to do it, but I have to pull a manual fuel shutoff lever, so maybe that has something to do with it. This to is normal if the idle is to slow and they usually are

5) It doesn't have a tachometer, which I don't like - any aftermarkets available? Should be but running at near full throttle is the normal operating speed

6) Parking brake doesn't have an idiot light. THIS idiot drove 1/4 mile with the parking brake on at full blast in high range (I did notice the tractor seemed slower than normal when moving in reverse - now I know what that means). Hope I didn't warp anything. Anyone rig up an idiot light? I'm thinking switch on little parking pedal/rod linkage. Most of us BX drivers have driven some, more than once, with the brake pedal on

7) The PTO (mowing deck) seems to engage somewhat abruptly - shakes the deck when the blades fire up. My 'L' brings the PTO up to speed smoothly in a second or two. This to is normal for the BX. I owned an L at one time and they are totally different machines just same color and distributor

8) Should RPMs be dropped before engaging the PTO then RPMs brought back up? I'm sure the manual says no, but with the abruptness of the engagement, I felt it might be a good idea, except for the engine vibration at idle...it IS a shaky little beast. Some people rev up to engage pto (mowing deck) and others lower rpm to engage pto. Doubt there is a universally accepted answer but again it's not a L

9) The manual says to start the engine at half-throttle, then crank up from there. The PO never started, ran, or stopped the engine at less that 1/2 throttle, and mostly run WFO. I don't like starting like that - seems to beat on the engine to me. I like to start at idle, then increase to 1/8-1/4 (just to smooth it out) to get things circulating for a half-minute or so, THEN crank it up. Opinions?
Do what you want. I bumped throttle lever a bit, not a lot but a bit and then started it and felt great doing so because it fired up good, ran good and a bit smoother than at bottom of rpms. The BX is NOT an L.

I'm sure I'll think of more, but those are the ones I could remember right now. Thanks.

I've owned several BXs, and Bs and one L. They are different machines. Each increase in HP and frame size seems to make a difference in how they feel and run and operate. Accept it's not an L and quit comparing it to your L and you'll be fine. It's a SCUT sub compact utility tractor where the B models are CUT compact utility tractors and the L is a utility tractor.
When I went from my first tractor, a BX2200 MMM FEL which I got used to being the norm, and went then to a B7800 FEL and a BX1500 MMM I felt the B was not "right" and then 3 years later I went to a Grand L3240 HST+ FEL and a BX2350 MMM the L seemed like a totally different world. The BX1500 would shake like it was falling apart when I'd turn it off if I didn't leave the engine running a bit above idle and the L was, well it was totally different than any of the Bs or BXs or Fs that I've owned bofore or since then. Got rid of the L pretty quick. Scared me driving it around on hillsides with my butt so far off the ground.

 

[NY_Yankees_Fan]

I got a 600-hour BX2200 this weekend and used it today for the first time. It is very cute - everything is just sooooo teeny - and how I lived this long without a 60" mowing deck is beyond me - BUT, it's REALLY different than my good 'ol L4200GST, so I do have a few questions (some for those familiar with both BXs and the bigger guys): 1) The PO told me that there is a design flaw regarding the fuel sending unit, which apparently leaks if the tank is more than 3/4 full. True or BS? If so, whats the fix?

2) The engine seems to run good, but idles rough (zero throttle) with lots of vibration - its running OK, just shakes a lot. Smooths right out at 1/8-1/4 throttle. Normal?

3) Hydraulics (loader) didn't work at all at idle (zero throttle). Just a little bit of RPMs got things going. Normal? Loader action seems fine otherwise. The tractor was cold at the time, but it was 80+ outside. I think it might have worked at idle later in the day when the tractor was warm, but I'm not sure about that.

4) When I shut off the engine, it stops somewhat abruptly (like 1/2 sec) with a loud clatter. Again, not an engine issue but vibration. I don't like it - kind of unsettling - almost sounds like the engine is loaded when shut down. My 'L' shuts down smoothly and takes a couple of seconds to do it, but I have to pull a manual fuel shutoff lever, so maybe that has something to do with it.

5) It doesn't have a tachometer, which I don't like - any aftermarkets available?

6) Parking brake doesn't have an idiot light. THIS idiot drove 1/4 mile with the parking brake on at full blast in high range (I did notice the tractor seemed slower than normal when moving in reverse - now I know what that means). Hope I didn't warp anything. Anyone rig up an idiot light? I'm thinking switch on little parking pedal/rod linkage.

7) The PTO (mowing deck) seems to engage somewhat abruptly - shakes the deck when the blades fire up. My 'L' brings the PTO up to speed smoothly in a second or two.

8) Should RPMs be dropped before engaging the PTO then RPMs brought back up? I'm sure the manual says no, but with the abruptness of the engagement, I felt it might be a good idea, except for the engine vibration at idle...it IS a shaky little beast.

9) The manual says to start the engine at half-throttle, then crank up from there. The PO never started, ran, or stopped the engine at less that 1/2 throttle, and mostly run WFO. I don't like starting like that - seems to beat on the engine to me. I like to start at idle, then increase to 1/8-1/4 (just to smooth it out) to get things circulating for a half-minute or so, THEN crank it up. Opinions? I'm sure I'll think of more, but those are the ones I could remember right now. Thanks.

1. This was a problem with early units. The gasket at the top of the sending unit was a problem, it was covered by the dealer. Not all leak, fill it and see what happens.

2. Normal

3. Normal, the hydraulic pump is not very big and needs rpm to wake it up.

4. Normal

5. Search here for Tiny Tach, they work great, but I do not look at it, I just listen to the engine. Mowing is at WOT, chipping WOT, snow blowing almost WOT depending on the depth of the snow. FEL work, same as snow blowing.

6. I added one, idiot light, search here you will find old threads on this.

7. Normal, engage the PTO at a low RPM and then increase the speed.

8. See 7 above.

9. I start it the way you do, little above idle once it starts, increase the RPM.

Hope this helps, if not let me know, enjoy the new toy.

 

[NY_Yankees_Fan]

Here is a link to a service manual for the BX, did I say it was free. They also have a FEL manual. Search Form - Garden Tractor Talk - Garden Tractor Forums[downloads][searchInKey]=files&search_app_filters[downloads][files][sortKey]=date&search_term=Kubota&search_app=downloads

In the search box for manuals type in Kubota and you will see the manual for download. You will need to register to download the document.

 

[gwdixon]

All the questions have been answered well by the previous posters. I know some of the characteristics are alarming at first (especially the engine vibration at certain speeds and when shut down) but they are completely normal. It sounds as if the tractor is just fine.

When I had an L3650 the differences were disconcerting. But I bought the BX2200 new so understood that it just works that way.

The fuel leak (gasket) is a pain to get to because it is under the left side rear tire fender. It takes a bit of tear down to get to. Mine was replaced three times before it was fixed.

Also, but not mentioned:
>the three switches on the dash will short out if wet. Blinkers/lights will come on and drain the battery.
>because of the engine vibration the strap holding on the air cleaner will break. Even the newest design breaks. It took some welding to fab a bracket that will hold.
>to run the PTO at 540 RPM requires WOT. Don't fret, just crank the engine speed lever all the way.
>the hydraulic pump is small so throttle up to get hydraulic things moving. Also, running two or more hydraulic things at once will slow everything down (FEL, 3PH, HST, PTO, +anything else)

If you do a search on TBN you can get a lot of information on the BX.

 

[NY_Yankees_Fan]

Also the 3 hydraulic hoses from the back to the steering unit will leak. You will know it is leaking because the MMM deck will be covered in hydraulic oil. They are a pain to replace and $$$, again do a search here you will find a lot of info on it. If one does leak replace all 3 hoses.

 

[Jay4200]

Thanks everybody! Sounds like all is normal with the little clattering thing. Sure does have some weird issues though...hope I didn't make a mistake buying it...did I?

The PO told me about the fuel leak, so I assume he found out the hard way and that my tractor does it - said it was a POS to fix, but I'll most likely do it - I hate things that aren't perfect. Speaking of which, I noticed the the fuel gauge is extremely sensitive to tractor position - a little slope and the gauge reading changes like 1/4 tank. I filled it up to somewhere between in the 3/4 and full, depending on tractor position - I'll find out if it is dumping fuel next weekend...

Special thanks for the manual links - the tractor came with factory manuals for the tractor, deck, loader, and snowblower - I grabbed the loader manual anyway, and also got the tractor service manual and the D905 engine service manual from the GT site. Sa-weet!

I haven't quite figured out the hookup yet, but I'm guessing that the snowblower quick hitch is controlled by the up-down loader function. Seems a waste to not use the left-right loader functions to run the chute rotation. I'm on the hunt for a hydraulic motor for that...probably see updates and questions in the hydraulics forum eventually. Thanks again.

 

[wild bill]

I haven't quite figured out the hookup yet, but I'm guessing that the snowblower quick hitch is controlled by the up-down loader function. Seems a waste to not use the left-right loader functions to run the chute rotation. I'm on the hunt for a hydraulic motor for that...probably see updates and questions in the hydraulics forum eventually. Thanks again.

Yes, rotating the chute manually gets old real fast! Lots of threads on adding a hydraulic motor, someone even had a CAD drawing to cut extra teeth in the bottom of the chute.

 

[RaydaKub]

The 3 cylinder engine will vibrate a lot at low rpm. I try to position my throttle at the low end of the smoothing out when I shut down so that the next time I start it, it gets through that phase more quickly. One other change I made was to go to full synth oil. I got the 5W40 stuff at WalMart. Can't remember the brand now, but the synth oil did a nice job of taking away some of that vibration. Enjoy it. It will serve you well. I can't imagine doing the work manually that I've used mine for the last 3 years. Those projects just wouldn't have gotten done.