Sod work prep.. can i rotortill the old lawn?

[Ramairfreak98ss]

I have a customer asking about this, im due to have a 65" wide rotortiller soon, could i rotor till and then box scrape the entire area before sod installation?

 

[RonR]

Not sure why you'd need to box scrape, unless you have to remove some material to keep the height after sod correct. Tilling should give the ground a good base to lay sod, but I wouldn't till too deeply. Just enough to loosen and smooth the top, then let it settle prior to laying the sod.

Or if you need to remove soil, tilling it would make it easier to drag the old off I suppose. I would think you would still want to have the base loosened some prior to laying sod. In our clay, if you tilled and removed the top stuff, what would be left would be like concrete.

ron

 

[Dickey]

I just watched a show on DIY about laying sod, They said lots of people just lay sod on top of the ground an then wonder why it dies. You should add all amendments to the ground just like it was a garden which includes getting rid of weeds first. Then till in compost, Manure , fertilize an lime if needed an then smooth it out with a rake. before adding sod. Then water it every day for the first week an then one inch every week. Sounds like laying sod is a little more work than I first thought. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[KentT]

I'd suggest you till only as deep as absolutely necessary to level the lawn. Based on my experience, the deeper you till the more problems you'll likely have with the lawn settling unevenly and not being level AFTER the new grass grows in...

 

[weesa20]

Removing the exisiting weeds was the whole reason for purchasing my GC. I used the FEL to take the top 6 inches of soil (clay in NC) and the weeds of the lawn. I then brought in about 50 yards of topsoil and amendments/sand which was rototilled in. I used seed instead of sod, but I think this would work fine for sodding. I agree with not going too deep because settling becomes a problem. The thing about rototilling lawns is that you have to know EXACTLY where the H2O, power, sewer, telephone, cable, etc lines are. I know there are codes for how deep etc they should be, but I was scared to do the front parts of my lawn because I could not be sure where everything is located (even after I had Safe Dig come out and mark them). The other thing is that you might hit tree roots and damage landscaping trees.

A

 

[RonR]

This has been discussed other places, but 2 yrs ago, we needed to pump up our clay soil for fescue reseeding. All the horticulture stuff recommended organic as a fix for almost all the problems, so Mom & I bought SIX THOUSAND pounds of composted zoo doo and top dressed the lawn. It was cheap and easy to spread (it was light, and didn't smell). We did get some bizzare weeds the first season, but weed spray took care of that.

Our yard used to be the texture of concrete, now you can walk across it and feel the springiness. Might get some more for this summer--don't need fertilizer with that stuff!

ron

 

[RobertN]

Till it no matter what you do. I would either scrape the existing stuff off, or bring in a sod cutter to get it out.

then, till it a few inches. Add compost Till that in, then roll it. Rake to take off high spots/fill in low spots. Make sure to roll it, or you will have settling problems...

Then sod, and roll again. You want to press that dirt layer on the back of the sod down into your freshly prepared soil.

Tilling is good; it breaks up the soil so the new roots can get established. The compost helps get nutrients to those new roots.

It is also helpful to till, so water can get in the soil. If you don't, you'll have a soil horizon. Water will want to follow that horizon(travel horizontal, instead of soaking down and in).

Remember too, to water often at first while roots establish. Then water less often, but water deep. Check with you local Ag extension or Master Gardener office. They can get you the transevaporation rates. This will tell you how much water you need each week. From there, you can tailer your irrigation schedule. Remember, watering less often, but getting a deep watering promotes a deeper root bed, which is healthier and less prone to disease and shock from heat ect.

 

[ToadHill]

You don't have to remove the old sod to till the area you want to sod. I have owned a landscape and tree care company for years. All we do is kill the existing lawn with roundup, let it sit for about 7 days, till the soil, adding compost, and the right nutrients ( soil test first) and then level, lay sod or plant seed. Don't forget to water, water, and water, if you put down sod it will take 7 to 10 days for the roots of the sod to penetrate into the tilled earth so if they don't get enough water the sod will die.

 

[jas67]

I agree with not going too deep because settling becomes a problem.

OK, what should I do if I have already rototilled too deep in areas (the area wasn't real level when i tilled, so when the front wheels went over high-spots, it tilled about 6-8" deep)?

Will rolling it fix it?

Should I roll before grading?

 

[rcrcomputing]

OK, what should I do if I have already rototilled too deep in areas (the area wasn't real level when i tilled, so when the front wheels went over high-spots, it tilled about 6-8" deep)?

Will rolling it fix it?

Should I roll before grading?

Kinda wish you'd have gotten an answer to this question.

Just middlebusted, and now disking.. Sandy loam soil..