Snowblowers and gravel driveways

[oldafretired]

Is it best to wait until the gravel freezes solid before using a snowblower? I assume that if the gravel is still loose and the 3 point is set on float even with the skid shoes, the blower will ingest a lot of gravel and cause shear bolts to break. How would a blower work if it is held up an inch or two?

 

[leonz]

Hello oldafretired,

Its best to wait, but in a pinch you can turn the top link in and raise the front of the snow blower off the ground but still leave
on the skids.

 

[Captain Dirty]

Is it best to wait until the gravel freezes solid before using a snowblower? I assume that if the gravel is still loose and the 3 point is set on float even with the skid shoes, the blower will ingest a lot of gravel and cause shear bolts to break. How would a blower work if it is held up an inch or two?

Here in NE the gravel doesn't stay frozen. I shorten up the top link so the blower pivots on the skid shoes and the blade is 1" to 1.5" above the top surface of the gravel. Works OK on my (inch stone) and my son's (pea-stone) drives. My sister turns into her driveway fast enough to throw up as berm or dig ruts; never got the blade high enough not to sling some stone. Grade V 1/4-20 shear bolts have never broken on inch stone, will break on cobbles.

 

[Trails End]

I agree with Leonz! I have a 72" Pronovost Puma snow blower with a 470' gravel driveway.
At the beginning of the snow season, I shorten the top link to raise the snow blower lip about
an inch, while still resting on the skids. Very little gravel ingested that way, except
if I make a pass down the middle of the driveway with a rasied crown. Even then, the
gravel ingested is minimal. After the ground is thoroughly frozen, I lengthen the top link
to set the lip around 1/4 inch above the ground. I've done this since winter 2013 and have
yet to break a shear pin.

 

[oldafretired]

Thanks for all the good info. I think I might just use my front blade with a rubber edge until the gravel freezes. It becomes solid ice where you can't safely walk on it without cleats. Then I'm planning on blowing most of the snow off the drive then going over it quickly with the front blade to clean off what remains.

 

[check]

Thanks for all the good info. I think I might just use my front blade with a rubber edge until the gravel freezes. It becomes solid ice where you can't safely walk on it without cleats. Then I'm planning on blowing most of the snow off the drive then going over it quickly with the front blade to clean off what remains.

I just pack it down by driving over it for the first few snow falls, until all the gravel is covered.

 

[Blstr88]

I just pack it down by driving over it for the first few snow falls, until all the gravel is covered.

This.

I dont plow or snowblow the first few snowfalls, I just drive through it packing it down real tight...creates a nice thick base that covers up all the loose gravel, then I can plow/snowblow that all winter long without digging in.

Just gotta be careful towards the end of the season as it melts.

 

[oosik]

When I had my smaller tractor - 28 hp Ford 1700 - I had a 5' 3-point blower. I only used it when the frozen berms needed to be cleared and the driveway returned to its normal width. Usually, by that time, the gravel on my mile long driveway was frozen rock hard. The process of using the 3-point, PTO driven blower was so painfully slow that I seldom scraped & blew gravel. It was not the blowing of gravel that would snap shear bolts - ice chunks, frozen pine cones, wet snow freezing up in the blower and even once a wooden fence post.

Yes, I've had my full share of "fun" changing out blown shear bolts. My current tractor is big enough that I can clear the frozen berms with the rear blade.

My Rhino 950 rear blade weighs - 1000# and the M6040 as it now sits, weighs - 10,100#. If our snow conditions ever get "beyond" this current tractor setup - I guess I'll just sit in the house and pout.

 

[Soldier415]

I have a steep 1/4 mile crusher run driveway. For the first few snows, just drive forward slowly with the blower on the ground (this is assuming you have a 3PH blower in which you drive backwards normally) and the 3ph in float. This will pack down a good layer on top of the gravel and gives a surface where your winter tires can get a bite when driving.

After that layer freezes/sets I snowblow with no skid shoes with the top link adjusted to pick the bottom edge up about 1/4"

Or you can always add a section of metal pipe to the bottom edge to prevent it cutting in to the gravel.

Driveway for reference:

 

[ruffdog]

I just pack it down by driving over it for the first few snow falls, until all the gravel is covered.

^^this^^ I also use my rear blade backwards so it doesn't dig in. If your early snows are heavy, just have it lifted a few inches and pack the rest.