Snowblower cutting edge questions

[fishhead]

I need to replace my cutting edge on a pronovost rear pull

somewhere i read someone that posted they welded on a narrow strip on the base of their cutting edge which gave them a much better scrape

as replacement edges in hardox are quite pricey i wondered if it would be possible to weld a strip of hardox to the base of my steel cutting edge without replacing the edge?

I don't know much about welding, could you join what is described as "high quality steel" to hardox?
does this sound unwise?

 

[RNeumann]

Sounds like you have the time to tinker. If that’s the case you can add weld onto the existing edge. Another option is to keep an eye out for used or discarded edges. Something off a bigger machine may work for yours with a little cutting torch fitment!

 

[fishhead]

Thanks
the existing edge is quite worn, a local fab shop is suggesting they do a new edge out of ar steel, I have a lot travel coming up so i may go this way.

Sounds like you have the time to tinker. If that痴 the case you can add weld onto the existing edge. Another option is to keep an eye out for used or discarded edges. Something off a bigger machine may work for yours with a little cutting torch fitment!

 

[RNeumann]

Regular steel would be low on my list. A true cutting edge is harder than the hubs of ****. I’d at least find a chunk of the correct material. Seems new ones are like $75 and up.

 

[fishhead]

he's gonna use ar 500 or 550 so its should be quite hard- the old one was too far gone. He has square cutting dies so he will do the edge with flush carriage bolts as well

the cutting edge on this is a bit of a misnomer as it is a 1/2x3 strip that slides along with the 3inch side down. He thinks it will safely be under 250 which is half of a factory replacement

Regular steel would be low on my list. A true cutting edge is harder than the hubs of ****. I壇 at least find a chunk of the correct material. Seems new ones are like $75 and up.

 

[oosik]

I can relate to RNeumann's reply - post#4. My BIL worked for the county - road maintenance. For my previous tractor & rear blade - he got me a chunk of brand new road grader blade. It was HD to the extreme. It required a new set of drill bits to drill holes and mount on the rear blade. It was not only heavy but of a grade steel that was harder then the hubs of Hades. I do not have a cutting torch. It took the better part of an hour of continuous cutting with a few metal blades on my jig saw to get it cut to length. After 16 years of grading dirt & snow I finally noticed the tips on the very outer edges were beginning to round slightly.

The blade on my new Rhino 950 is of that same grade steel. It is a double sided blade. I will never have to drill holes in it - fortunately. It's even questionable if I will ever have to reverse it. Five years of grading and no noticeable rounding of the blade tips.