Buying Advice Snow removal considerations.

[darcydw]

Hello. After a long time reading information on this forum I am getting closer to buying a Kubota B2650 or something similar. I need a tractor primarily for loader work like moving soil for garden beds and landscaping. I also need to move a bit of snow. I am looking for some advice from those with experience.

First some background. We live in northern Alberta and are trying to get lined up to build out on my parent's home quarter where we have our garden, chickens, and so on. My wife and I want to get out of town before we retire which is still a fair ways off but coming quicker. I have been using either a JD LX188 with a 38" front snow blower or my Rhino with a blade with home made hydraulic raise and angle to keep the yard clear for my retired mother up to this point. The gravel driveway is a u-shape and is about 500 feet long plus some other trails in the yard. Once we build there will be a fair bit more driveway. The Rhino is far faster but at some point pushing I eventually run out of room, especially after a good dump of snow. I also believe that plowing puts a lot of wear on any brand of UTV so I want to use it less for this. The snow blower can remove the snow but it is a relatively very slow process and nasty when the wind returns that same snow into my face. The steering on the JD LX188 is dreadful with the snow blower down as the skids force it to continue going straight. If it is raised enough to prevent this there will also be enough snow left to end up with the tractor stuck. It tends to get stuck fairly often. Yes, it has rear chains and weights. I also do realize this is a lot different tractor than the Kubota.

So I have to make some large decisions:
1. Get the B2650 with a loader and SSQA angling blade set up. How well can they push snow? I think I would get chains regardless of what I am using. This would be the least expensive and least likely to cover me in snow. No, I cannot afford to go with a cab and for the use in the summer I would rather not have one.

2. Get the B2650 with a loader and front snow blower. Will these tractors steer better or is the relative size of a front blower such that the skids still act as railroad tracks heading straight and resisting all steering input?

3. Get the B2650 with a loader, a rear snow blower and maybe the angling blade on the loader. Less money in the blower by far which balances out the front blade cost, less convenience due to backing up more, better steering control perhaps, and the loader is still useful during the winter. This snow blower would be mostly for emergency use when I couldn't push anymore.

4. Forget the B2650 and buy something a bit larger with a loader and angling blade and not need the snow blower (and that money buys the larger tractor). I know at some point a tractor and bucket or blade is big enough to overcome any snowfall but money becomes an issue really quickly.

5. Maybe forget the angling blade on the loader altogether and get a heavier duty 3pt blade to plow lighter snow (which could also act as a rear ballast) and use the bucket to push and lift the heavier snow when needed.

Also which tires are better in snow and ice? R1 or R4? (I will never use this tractor for mowing as we have two riding mowers that are cheaper to wear out and cut 48" and 54" each.) I would likely use chains on the rear with either type of tire. Chains might be nice on the front for steering but I would hate to do damage with front chains and steering components if they come off or make contact during a turn.

I have looked at so many other options that I don't know which way is up, even to the point of converting a rear snow blower to mount on the SSQA and mounting a gas engine right on it. I could do this as I can fabricate and weld fairly well but I am learning that these projects always end up being more expensive than planned.

I would appreciate some input from those of you who have been down this road.

 

[TSO]

Welcome. The B2620 is a nice tractor. My friend started out with a B2920 at the same time I started out with a Kioti ck20. Both machines are very similar physically. Good tractors, but we both stepped up to much bigger tractors.

What I have found with tractor snow-plowing is this: when it comes to deeper snow, it all boils down to traction & speed. You need to have the power, weight, and traction to keep up speed, so that you can effectively "throw" the snow enough to the side.

With my ck20, and my buddies b2920... I think the top speed was around 11 or 12 mph. Not very fast.

I then switched to a 47 HP tractor and a larger back blade. The back blade works very well and allows for 2 direction plowing and doesn't "trip" when it bumps into ice, rocks, etc. But, they are usually short in height, so in deep snow they lose material over the top. They also will accumulate snow and not "throw" it well, so you still have that issue.

I then switched to a different 47 HP tractor, but now have a front SSQA snow blade. It works better than the rear blade for the most part, but it is annoying when it trips. It's also heavy, so it can interfere with steering.

This new tractor can plow in High range and that gets up to 16-17 mph. It throws the snow better than the others did, but nothing like a faster moving vehicle does.

Never used a blower on a tractor....can't comment on them.

Ultimately, I think that plowing with your Rhino will remain as a better option and it will take you less time than a tractor, especially because of the speed and maneuverability.

 

[DHD]

[QUOTE} 3. Get the B2650 with a loader, a rear snow blower and maybe the angling blade on the loader. Less money in the blower by far which balances out the front blade cost, less convenience due to backing up more, better steering control perhaps, and the loader is still useful during the winter. This snow blower would be mostly for emergency use when I couldn't push anymore.
[/QUOTE]

I like idea 3.
I have a 2005 Kubota B7800, just slightly bigger than the B2650. I've used a rm push snow blower for 9 years on a gravel 530 ft driveway and a gravel 300 ft. driveway.
I like a snow blown driveway over a plowed driveway because I never have to worry about the driveway getting narrower (due to snowbanks) later in the winter.

I like have the blower on the back because my bucket is always available.
Even with the blower, the bucket is required to move packed wet snow.
When roofs need raking and if the snow it wet, when the snow falls to the ground it gets packed so hard that the snow blower will ride up over the snow.
The packed wet snow can only be moved with the bucket.
I also like having the bucket free to carry sand to icy areas of the driveway.

I have R4 rather than R1 tires because I use a rm 72" finish mower and the R4 tires are easier on the turf.
My understanding is turf tires are better in snow and ice than either R1 or R4 tires.
I run 2 link tire chains on the rear tires, two Kubota dealers in my area recommended not to run chains on the front tires, suggesting that it could cause too much stress on the front drive train when it was in 4wd.

When I shopped for my Kubota I almost bought a slightly smaller model (B7500). I elected for the slightly larger B7800 because it gave me more room to sit sideways in my seat looking rearward .
Along with my rm snow blower, I have a rm 84" blade, and need to look rearward fairly often when using the rm blade. Just having a little more room in the operators area will insure a more enjoyable experience when using your tractor.
Good luck

 

[GPintheMitten]

I have a B2620 which is similar but lighter than the B2650. I have a rear blade, and a rear snowblower and front end loader.

I like having access to the front loader so that and the cost factor for front snowblower eliminated that option.

You can get a lot of snow blow back so you have to be mindful of the wind direction. It got so bad last winter that I fabbed up a cab that I take off in the summer.

You don't need the protection of a cab but it sure made things better. There are many threads on home made cabs and the cabs run the gammit from very basic to those that appear to be factory built.

Regarding tires, between R1s and R4s, I recommend R4s with chains and rim guard filled (in the rear only) for snow removal.

Even though you aren't mowing, have you considered turfs?

 

[stoyan79]

I'd suggest you look for a new, or slightly used economy L - specifically L3800, L3700 or L3400. They cost about the same as B series, but are much more capable and heavier. The models above are all pre Tier 4. I would rather not mess with Tier 4 for now. Just get a loader mounted plow with SSQA and see how it works for a winter or 2, then get more equipment if you decide you need it.

 

[GPintheMitten]

There's a lot of merit in what stoyan79 says. Especially about starting with fewer attachments and see how it goes. Regardless of what tractor model you get, you could start with a loader, add a 7' rear blade for not much more money.

Then later, if it proves necessary or desirable, get a rear blower, and / or fab a front snow plow.

If you want to plan on a front snow plow, SSQA would be a plus.

 

[kco]

There's a lot of merit in what stoyan79 says. Especially about starting with fewer attachments and see how it goes. Regardless of what tractor model you get, you could start with a loader, add a 7' rear blade for not much more money.

Then later, if it proves necessary or desirable, get a rear blower, and / or fab a front snow plow.

If you want to plan on a front snow plow, SSQA would be a plus.

Since you have a quarter section and plan to retire there I think this and stoyan79's suggestions make a lot of sense. You will likely want a larger tractor, especially if it is wooded.

Being in northern Alberta (which part is it?) I imagine the snow stays all winter long. Rear chains will greatly increase your tractor's capability. Front chains can be added later. It sounds like you won't have the tractor this winter, so that would give you more time to research chain options such as buying and perhaps modifying used chains over the summer.

 

[HEC]

I have the B2650 with a cab , front blower , and rear blade . The heated cab is awesome to say the least after 25 plus years with open station tractors . I have over 600 ft. of driveway and 2 small parking areas to do . I find the blower and rear blade combo work very well together . I have a gravel drive which has a slight incline . In 25 years at this present location with 4wd tractors I have never needed chains and we can get some big storms in my area ,along with the ice once in awhile . We have had 2 good size storms this year, one being a heavy wet one and the 2650 did just fine . I also have a larger M5700 Kubota if needed with a front end loader and blower that I used in the past . I would be lost without a front end loader both winter and summer , as they come in so handy for various chores .

I would not be happy with a rear blower on the 2650 due to the one peddle arrangement, going backwards for long periods of time , it would be very uncomfortable for me . All that being said , I am very happy with the 2650 and quite honestly amazed what this tractor can do , both for snow and yard work in the summer .

Good Luck

 

[Parkanzky]

I also have a front-mount snowblower and ~600 ft. of drive with a couple of garage aprons. I do it with a front snowblower and box scraper and I love that combination. I have a very steep hill on my (paved) driveway heading up to our upper garage and went back and forth about chains. What I decided was to buy the tractor without and I could get chains in a few days if it turned out that I was wrong. So far, I haven't needed chains despite some really icy days. It's been borderline a couple times (I've had to raise the snowblower and drive up with the diff-lock on, then blow snow heading downhill), but I still don't regret not getting chains.

I go back and forth between snow removal and cleaning up downed trees/splitting wood/etc. When I want to do that, I can switch from the snowblower to the loader (or the other way) in about 15 minutes. So I wouldn't worry too much about losing the loader with the front-mounted blower. At least not with the attachment systems that John Deere is using. I cross-shopped the B3350's, and it didn't seem quite as easy but it didn't look like it was that much worse.

 

[jaydee325]

I've got an LS3039H with loader and 6' box blade and a John Deere 325 garden tractor with a 42" snowblower. Hands down, the weapon of choice is the smaller snowblower. It is just much more efficient at handling the snow and does not tear up the yard.

I do go out and push snow around with the loader (it's fun!).

If the front snowblower for the LS was not so expensive, I'd have one!