Snow Plow Repair

[Diamondpilot]

I bought this old Meyer Plow last weekend for $100. I stripped it of the snow deflector, cutting edge,and all the other items like the chain, angle cylinders, trip springs, and every nut and bolt. The problem I am having is it has sat out for years and is seized up on the tilt axis. I have sprayed it 2 or 3 times a day since Saturday with penetrating oil and given it a few whacks with a sledge hammer with no luck. I have put pressure on it with a 6 ton jack with no luck as you can see.

My question is how to get it un-stuck? I do not have a torch but a buddy does and that may be my next step. I have also just though about cutting the pins that are in there with a Sawz-All in the gap as seen in picture 4. Also, I removed the cotter pins and from the way it looks to me there is just maybe 5/8" pins in there that can be drive out with a punch and hammer, am I right????

Here are some pics. Any insight will be helpful. By the way its a Meyer model ST-78. Its 6.5' wide and I plan on putting it on my tractors FEL as many others have done.

Thanks in advance.

Chris

 

[Thomas]

By chance hidden spot weld or two.

 

[sal64]

hello i have the same plow mine trips on the cutting edge when i hit somthing the plow stays straight dosent move the bottom edge trips only maby yours is same.

 

[jimmysisson]

I'd try a 3# hammer applied (not slammin, but decent taps) about 20 times to the sleeves the pins go into. That might loosen the scale. After that, heat wrench, even propane/mapp torch, plus PB Blaster or =, plus hammer. Don't cut the pins just yet! Jack as positioned might break weld at the brace - maybe a 4x4 between the jack base and the brace would spread out the load?
Jim

 

[jimmysisson]

Sal64, are you sure yours isn't a Fisher?
Jim

 

[Diamondpilot]

By chance hidden spot weld or two.

I have looked and do not see any but will take another look at it.

Thanks for the idea.

Chris

 

[Diamondpilot]

hello i have the same plow mine trips on the cutting edge when i hit somthing the plow stays straight dosent move the bottom edge trips only maby yours is same.

No, my plow had the cutting edge bolted on with 8 1/2" carriage bolts. Actually the cutting edge is brand new as of about 10 years ago when the thing got parked. Anyway, it trips at the pivots at the end of the A Frame.

Chris

 

[sal64]

u are right it is a fisher.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Sal64, are you sure yours isn't a Fisher?
Jim

Has a Meyer stick on the back side. Mostly worn off. It is under the bottle jack in picture 1. It says its a Meyer ST-78


Would it make a difference if its a Fisher?

Chris

 

[Diamondpilot]

I am sure its a Meyer ST-78 after doing a google search. I found this link where a shop rebuilt one and its identical to mine.

Building a Meyer ST-78 snow plow - Smith Brothers Services, LLC Meyer Plow Specialists

Chris

 

[George2615]

Like Jim said, several taps on the sleeves, plenty of PB Blaster, Maybe heat the sleeves, Tap on the pins with a drift punch. Have an assistant keep applying jack pressure where you have it while tapping with hammer. It will probably break free but as a last resort you can torch or sawzall the pins off then drive them out and replace with new.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Well we tried everything and finally got it broke free. Now the problem was the pins. We ended up having to cut them in half. We heated it cherry red and used a punch but no go. Got one to move a 1/4", one came out, a still have 2 halves stuck in. Ended up braking a 3# sledge and went to the 8# and still no go. We even stood it up on end and strapped it to a basket ball goad and beat on it. We may end up having to have them cut out and fab up new ones.

Chris

 

[joe48]

try this,it sounds a little crazy but has worked for me many times.

wrap the problem areas as best as you can with cotton rags, then soak with household ammonia, the cover with cling wrap plastics to keep from evaporating. let soak at least 24 to 48 hours , keeping wet with ammonia.

now try and knock out pins with a hammer and punch, unless they have been welded in, the pins should drive out easily.

let us know if it works ok. Joe48

 

[Diamondpilot]

Thanks for the tip Joe. I will give anything a shot. Like I said, they are stuck. I broke my 3# sledge so I have to get a new one today.

Chris

 

[LD1]

I have rebuilt many meyer plows from st-90 to c-7.5 and c-8 and more. The pins are the biggest pain there is. What I have found that works best is an air hammer. If you have a good air hammer with a punch attachment and not a chisel, they are the way to go. I have spent 5 min before with a punch (held with vicegrips for safety) and a 3# sledge and not even budge a pin. Get the air hammer out and it walks right out.

The plow I am currently doing right now is a st-90. I have stripped down and peeled the moldboard skin off and I am puting in a new one at 11ga instead of 12ga.

Juist from experience let me give you some cheap and simple advice that will mke the plow last longer and be easier to work on next time.

1. Dont use the cutting edge bolts that have the round head and square sholder like a carriage bolt. Just use regular bolts, as the square heads tend to round off and you can't even get vice grips on the mushroom head. I've had to cut several of these off.

2. Either use all stainless hardware or never-seize the crap out of all the bolts.

3. either weld solid or silicone the backs of the support ribs to the moldboard to keep salty water out. All the plows that I have seen rusted through, it starts between then ribs and moldboard where you cant get to, to clean and paint.

4. Make the pins greasable. I have seen this done two ways, either by drilling the pin and putting a fitting on the pin itself, or by drilling and tapping the pin bosses and putting a fitting there. Either way works, whichever is most convient for you ro do.

 

[Diamondpilot]

I have rebuilt many meyer plows from st-90 to c-7.5 and c-8 and more. The pins are the biggest pain there is. What I have found that works best is an air hammer. If you have a good air hammer with a punch attachment and not a chisel, they are the way to go. I have spent 5 min before with a punch (held with vicegrips for safety) and a 3# sledge and not even budge a pin. Get the air hammer out and it walks right out.

The plow I am currently doing right now is a st-90. I have stripped down and peeled the moldboard skin off and I am puting in a new one at 11ga instead of 12ga.

Juist from experience let me give you some cheap and simple advice that will mke the plow last longer and be easier to work on next time.

1. Dont use the cutting edge bolts that have the round head and square sholder like a carriage bolt. Just use regular bolts, as the square heads tend to round off and you can't even get vice grips on the mushroom head. I've had to cut several of these off.

2. Either use all stainless hardware or never-seize the crap out of all the bolts.

3. either weld solid or silicone the backs of the support ribs to the moldboard to keep salty water out. All the plows that I have seen rusted through, it starts between then ribs and moldboard where you cant get to, to clean and paint.

4. Make the pins greasable. I have seen this done two ways, either by drilling the pin and putting a fitting on the pin itself, or by drilling and tapping the pin bosses and putting a fitting there. Either way works, whichever is most convient for you ro do.

Thanks for the advise. I got some rust buster, 4OZ size, for $1.91 at my local Rural King and will give it a try with my new sledge that I also got there plus a air hammer. I will make sure to drill and tap each side of the pin boss to accept a zerk so I can grease the heck out of them.

Chris