Snow plow blade on the FEL?

NonTypicalCPA · Jul 18, 2018

I've been running a plow on my 1/2 ton for a few years now maintaining my personal drive of about 200' and also helping out at times on our 1/2 mile private drive. I recently sold the truck (kept the plow) and bought a new GMC 1/2 ton. However the thought of plowing with my new $45K truck isn't really sitting well with me. In the past I'd put the plow on and pull it off when done plowing so not a lot of road miles with it on for the truck to carry. I could still do this with the new truck but I'm considering instead putting a blade on my Kubota L3940 FEL. I already have a 3rd function remote for my grapple, so it would control the plow angle. Any thoughts on going this route for guys that have some experience? I've plowed a bit in the past with a 4-wheeler so the tractor should shine in comparison, right? Another option as mentioned in a current thread on TBN is a pull type snow blower.

prof fate · Jul 18, 2018

working on researching this myself. picked up a meyer plow off a truck for $100, mount and all as a starting point.

From what I"m learning - you need the blade to free float like it is on the truck, as opposed to mounted hard to the loader like the bucket is. This will let you keep the front wheels working for steering/traction.
Should be able to use your third function on the plow cylinders.

Some suggest mounting to the frame, not the loader (either remove loader or use it for liftiing the blade). Reason being when the blade is angled and there is a load of snow on it it can move the tractor sideways (leverage of all that loader arm assy) and/or tweak the loader arms as they're not really designed for a lot of side load.

Just picked up my blade yesterday, still scraping/rust removal/painting then I'll begin the fabrication...

Initial idea is a quick attach mount plate from titan/palletforks, $100ish depending on the thickness. Weld parts of the old mount to it. Easy peasy.

Frame mount...need 'brackets' from the frame someplace to drop below the front axle to mount the plow to. I've seen some pics of how others have done it..some to the frame some to the loader mount. I don't want to use something that might bend, say, and when it's time to put the loader back on it won't go.

Last year used a rear blade..works, but a PITA.

RjCorazza · Jul 18, 2018

I run an ssqa 7’ blade made by HLA. It’s very convenient, but takes some practice in setting the blade down while keeping some weight on the front end.

majorwager · Jul 18, 2018

I use a snow pusher on FEL because it contains the snow instead of just pushing it to the side. Bonus, no hydraulics necessary. Rubber cutting edge easy on driveway surface. Also works better than box scraper for grading stone.

Nelson has a valid point in post below. Counteractive forces do actually attempt to rotate the tractor when blade is severely angled. That is why the straight-on motion of a snow pusher is more uniform in resistance, not much different than the typical bucket w/o a bottom.

Since there is no frame in conventional sense, on a CUT, the so called bumper may be unable to withstand the lateral force. I used this system in the 90's. Frozen side banks of snow turned to ice, snow mix, did bend the mold board, presumed the bumper would be next. Discontinued use.

npalen · Jul 18, 2018

I don't have or use a front mounted blade but have considered it. I've always felt that the blade should be mounted to the tractor and use the loader to raise and lower with a chain or flexible linkage.
Seems like a blade out front of the loader puts a lot of side thrust and resulting instability on the tractor when blade is angled.

Also seems like a blade should be side shiftable to counteract side forces when angled. For example, when angling the blade clockwise it would side-shift to the right in order to keep the tractor from trying to "rotate" counter-clockwise.

This would also extend the blade toward the shoulder or ditch if that's where the snow is being placed.

A method to make the blade auto side-shift would be to put the pivot point between the tractor front wheels. Pivoting the blade clockwise would shift it to the right. I would think that mounting the blade to the tractor "bumper" would be adequate and also provide the rearward pivot point. The blade itself would end up pretty much directly under the bucket area.

Edit: We're talking snow plows in July?

George2615 · Jul 18, 2018

I adapted a Diamond 7 1/2' truck plow to a QA plate and use one set of rear remotes to angle it. It works fine. Also have a double auger 7' 3 pt blower when I need to blow the piles away.

BoylermanCT · Jul 18, 2018

I bought an old Meyer plow and welded it up to a QA plate. Uses a chain to float the blade.

majorwager · Jul 19, 2018

One issue w/ a blade is the projection. Coulped w/ the loader arm extension, the blade is really OUT THERE.
Pushing accross a highway, is blade in traffic lane before clear view of oncoming vehicles?

In tight quarters, maneuverability an issue? Inside storage requires significant space?

Just wondering out loud.

Additional comments in post edit #4 above.

Hey Nelson,

They speak of Christmas in July as well!!!!

NonTypicalCPA · Jul 19, 2018

I知 pretty sure my loader has a float position. I知 looking at a dedicated quick attach plow, not converting a truck plow. Any brand recommendations?

LouNY · Jul 19, 2018

the shorter coupled the better,
and don't even imagine that your loader float will do you much good,
you will need some float in the blade and carry your loader.
If you try and use float when your blade is down and pushing you will lift your front tires in the air and your blade will have a lot of down force.
Been there, done that.
My blade has only a small amount of float (slop) in the design, I ended up lowering my shoes 2" more then original, and I carry the loader and
tweak it up and down as the driveway changes. I have looked and don't even see a brand name on my blade.